Truck died and wont start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-15-2011, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Truck died and wont start

Hey guys i have a 95 psd and it wont start. I went outside to start my truck this morning, it started up fine i waited for the glow plugs to shut off and put the high idle on. Not 15 seconds later it just died, no sputter or any thing. I went to start it back up and all it did was crank. I noticed the wait to start light was not working afterwards either. Any help is greatly appreciated seeing as its my main vehicle. Thanks !

tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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post #2 of 11 Old 04-16-2011, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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well i checked all the fuses and fuse #22 was blown. so i put a 30A back in it and it blew right away. i put a 40A in it and it starts and runs fine but i dont want to run it like that for fear that my truck will catch on fire. but im lost on where to start looking for the problem. any ideas?

tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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post #3 of 11 Old 04-17-2011, 12:02 AM
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the number 22 fuse is for the fuel bowl heater, you might have a short in the wire somewhere!
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-18-2011, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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well by some miracle from he!! it managed to snow 3 inches in the middle of APRIL!!! so i gotta wait til it warms up a bit to mess with it cuz i definitely dont wanna drive it like that. thanks for the help i appreciate it

tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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post #5 of 11 Old 04-19-2011, 10:17 AM
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no problem!
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-19-2011, 10:35 AM
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Just unplug the fuel bowl heater and put the correct size fuse back in there. Drive it and fix it when you get a chance. No harm done.

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post #7 of 11 Old 04-19-2011, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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I saw a picture of the fuel bowl on another thread. Is it one of the connectors towards the bottom of the bowl and if so which one


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tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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post #8 of 11 Old 04-19-2011, 07:28 PM
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It should be on the driver's side of the bowl. You will see two wires going to two different sensors. The one on the bottom is the water in fuel sensor and the one above it is the fuel bowl heater. As it was said earlier, just unplug it, tape it up, replace the fuse and off you go.

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post #9 of 11 Old 04-19-2011, 07:29 PM
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you can get away with running no fuel bowl heater even in the winter just add some powerservice if your nervouse about it not running right my truck runs fine with no heater

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post #10 of 11 Old 04-20-2011, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Yea i already run powerservice but i disconnected the plug and that worked. I think the main issue is the fuel filter sensor i believe, directly above leaks. So im assuming the wire got wet and shorted out


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tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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