Cranks but does not start. GP system appears okay - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-06-2011, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Cranks but does not start. GP system appears okay

Hi guys. Before I start let me say that I did extensive searches here and other forums and gathered a lot of information that will help me diagnose this, but since all of these no-start conditions are unique, I would like to get your input on my situation.

I have had a rough winter with my truck. It is a 1997 with 193k miles. Here is what went down:

1.) in early January I replaced 7 of my glow plugs. I was unable to get the 8th one out (drivers side, second cylinder from front), so I left it in instead of risking breaking it.

2.) also in early January I replaced the GPR with the Stancor unit that I learned about on this forum. The truck started well after I did both of these.

3.) in late January a pulley broke and the serpentine belt slipped off. I had the truck towed to the shop where they replaced both the pulley and a new belt.

4.) in early February we had a major cold front and I was unable to get my starter to turn after sitting all day at the train station. It would turn really slow and drew the batteries down. I had it towed home, replaced both batteries and installed a hi-torque starter. Finally the truck was starting up consistently.

5.) in early March someone stole the fuel from both tanks. I did not realize it after cranking it for a while and I assume that air got into the lines. I fueled it up but it wouldn't start. I disconnected the GPR and sprayed some ether and it started and ran fine.

6.) a week later in March it would not start at the train station again. It cranked but would not turn over. No white smoke was coming out of the exhaust. Again I disconnected the GPR and sprayed ether and it started. But then it died after 30 seconds and I saw a fire in the engine. I put the fire out with an extinguisher and examined what happened. The battery+ connection that I removed from the GPR had apparantly contacted the metal sheathing of the GPR and caused a short. I had the truck towed to the shop and they found out that I had a high pressue oil leak all along, and that when the connector shorted, it ignited the high pressure oil line. They replaced the high pressure oil line and the truck would start consistently for a few weeks.

7.) this brings me to my current situation. Now the truck will not start at all. It cranks and turns the starter okay but it will not fire. I see no white smoke coming from the exhaust. I've plugged in the block heater for hours and it does nothing. I have done the following checks:
a. Battery+ terminals both at 12v
b. Battery+ post on GPR at 12v, opposite post on GPR is at 0v when off, and 12v when key is on, I see small the voltage drop on my dash when I turn the key and it lasts about two minutes(GPR okay)
c. Resistance at all 7 new glow plugs around 1.2 ohms (GPs okay)
d. fuel in tanks
e. oil dipstick within range
Where should I look next? I've read that I should see the oil pressure gauge on my dash move up when it cranks? It does not move while cranking.

Do you think it could be a problem with the injectors?
Fuel system?
Something the shop guys did when they replaced the high pressure oil line?
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-06-2011, 10:40 AM
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No smoke means the injectors aren't firing. Check fuse #22 under the hood (30amp maxi) and if it's blown unplug the fuel bowl heater then replace the fuse. The heater shorts out and blows the fuse, and the PCM is in the same circuit.

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post #3 of 11 Old 04-06-2011, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4 View Post
No smoke means the injectors aren't firing. Check fuse #22 under the hood (30amp maxi) and if it's blown unplug the fuel bowl heater then replace the fuse. The heater shorts out and blows the fuse, and the PCM is in the same circuit.
Thanks for the response, but I did exactly this three years ago after learning about the defect on this forum. My 'Wait to start' light is currently functioning properly so I assume fuse #22 is still okay.
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-06-2011, 12:28 PM
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Dont assume anything, Check it! Everything runs of 9 different circuits on these trucks so its all misleading. Lets start with the basics, fuel pressure?

Trucks and parts............
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-06-2011, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luca_brasi View Post
Thanks for the response, but I did exactly this three years ago after learning about the defect on this forum. My 'Wait to start' light is currently functioning properly so I assume fuse #22 is still okay.
OK then on to the IDM. No smoke means something is causing the injectors to not fire.

97 F350 CCLB 4x4 PSD
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-06-2011, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, guys. I should be able to check the fuel pressure with a tire guage, right?

What about the IDM? Should I buy a OBD II code scanner?
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-07-2011, 09:09 AM
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Does the tachometer move while you're cranking it?
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-07-2011, 04:41 PM
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Check the oil level in the hpop. Could be a drainback issue. Are you building any oil pressure on the gauge while cranking?

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post #9 of 11 Old 04-08-2011, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondsman View Post
Check the oil level in the hpop. Could be a drainback issue. Are you building any oil pressure on the gauge while cranking?
Do you mean the gauge on the my dash? No, it doesn't move while cranking. I'm pretty sure the tach moves, but I'll check again tomorrow.

Could dirty oil itself cause this? My last change was in December and less than 2,000 miles ago, but it is looking pretty black.
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-08-2011, 12:13 PM
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Well, the "gauge" isn't really a gauge; it's more of an idiot light with a needle. Pegs to the middle of the sweep when there's "enough" oil pressure. I think the idea of cranking with the starter causing the lubrication oil pump to produce enough pressure to move the needle is a bit of an unknown; I honestly don't ever remember seeing the gauge move on either of my wife's trucks during extended starting times (haven't looked that closely, but...).

Oil will often look pretty black after not too many miles. What flavor and viscosity range of oil are you using?

Did you check the HPOP reservoir, as suggested ^^^^ ?
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