1995 Powerstroke has no power,lopes at idle

[cableneff]

Hey guys can i get some help, this 95 ran well for 3 hrs or so after a couple of months of trouble shooting, i replaced the HPOP,FF,CPS,IPS and did anb O-ring job on the injectors, truck started finally and ran great, i shut it off put it all back together after checking for oil at all the spouts, which was good, started again and ran for a bit and started noticing a lack of power which got worse as time went on. Truck will idle but is slow on the rev up,real slow. and will only go mph.. had on scanner before i got it running and the only code was EOT, which is ok wont cause a no start, so could it be the pick-up pump, i will install a gauge ontop of fuel bowl on monday and check for 60psi at start and idle, will also check spouts under covers what else should i check for, thanks inadvance

[96F350KID]

happens to me when i do an Oil cooler runs good then has no power and will even die sounds like you have a air in oil issue. The EOT sensor won't affect it on a drivable level just millage

[obs]

Any updates, same issue.

[cableneff]

well heres an update, decided to clean connectors at sensors with electrical cleaner and found a burnt pin on the drivers side valve cover front plug, replaced both and still wont start on its own, idles real rough and now the front 2 injectors on both sides have no oil coming out of the injector spouts,, oh yea and now i need a new starter,,,$160.LoL's

[96F350KID]

that sounds like the GP wire. I had to change the oil twice on one truck because it still had water in it from the cooler. DON'T do that untill your sure you got all the air out how many miles have you driven?

[sldghamr]

had the same issue w/ my 96er years ago, ended up being the injector drive module (IDM) was dying.

[obs]

Well not to hijack but after having the same symptoms as above (no power, violent idle), I thought I'd share my results of the last three days as well in hopes it will help somebody else. I started with ae, I had no codes, no check engine light, oil was at 600 psi at idle as it should be, everything looked great. I changed out fuel pump cause I didn't have a way to check fuel pressure (pretty much only thing not new on the engine) and it acts like its getting starved, besides its cheap and easy so I replace it. After the bottom of the pump breaks off in the engine and poppit falls in, and a day of retrieving it, I move on to the next thing. I recently had changed uvch and valve cover gasket and outside connectors after getting my stage 1's from rosewood, but had used crappy dorman products. My buzz test had the entire bank 2 sounding very weak, so I pulled the cover to check to see if they were firing, they all were firing, but I broke both clips when I pulled it, they literally disinegrated. (dorman is s##t) . So I've always wanted to replace the entire engine harness due to someone splicing the crap out of it. Got a brand new harness, installed it with new uvch's and gaskets, put everything back together. Drum roll.... Runs even worse shaking the entire truck smoking filling the entire city. Go to shut it off, and finally a check engine light. P1294 bank 2 . Swear alott.. Take back off the cover, find 3 injectors not firing, swear more. Start checking connections, ohm out everything, all good, swear more. Start it again, 2 injectors not firing, one of which was working when I just started it an hour before. More swearing.. Pull the main harness start checking continuity from the main plug in to each injector plug see if I got a bad harness, all had continuity. Finally realize its the idm as sldghmr just posted above. Pull it off and can here the water rollin around it. Cracked it open poured out 2 cups of water reinstalled, immediately idled great for a minute or two before getting rough again. New ones on its way.
UPDATE: Had the day off, pulled the idm apart, found two obviously burned resistors and a diode, soldered in some new ones, and the truck runs like a champ smoothest idle its ever had.

[cableneff]

UPDATE: Put gauge on fuel bowl and got 25-30psi at start and 40 at idle, now i can only start with starting fluid after glowplugs cycle about 2 minutes. ok so i thought the fuel pump was weak and replaced it, which might i say was a pain in the neck, had to cut a notch in the turbo pedastol. so no change really, so im thinking o-ring got damaged on the install and put in 8 0-ring kits again, no change, had to pull truck 10 miles to get it to start and idle, did this to save starter.. now as of the last day i worked on truck it would idle and only had 5 injectors with oil at the spouts, checked all connectors and have no codes. wont rev up to past 2000 rpm has a obvious miss, this week im going to put in 3 used injectors and check results, will have truck put on scanner on tuesday to have a contribution test done, as well as taking the IDM apart and checking for water thanks for that lead... well thats my story so far, i will update when new info is avail...

[obs]

Hey cableneff, I'd pull the idm first, mine looked brand new, until I saw the backside. Its only 3 bolts and about two minutes on the obs. You don't even need to pull it apart, if its full of water which is really common, you'll be able to see the signs and hear it. 3 injectors don't just break at the same time. Its wiring or idm. Your symptoms are exactly the same as mine were. Spend a second and pull the idm, might save you a couple days of frusteration. Good luck.

[CowboyCody]

my dads 95' was shutting the whole bank down, changed the wiring harness, gaskets, and the idm, turned out to be the main computer. just another thought.