Lacks power then wont start after injector seals

[04yfzkid]

To start off the truck is a 97 f-250 crew cab short bed 4x4 auto, with 260k miles. I figured I might as well do some maintence on it before winter hits because it had some blue smoke and was hard to start. Has 2 brand new 880cca batteries. I installed a stancor GPR and that didn't help. Next I installed some injector seals and new glow plugs. The truck started up and smoked a bit (from the oil that leaks down into the cylinders). I let it idle for close to half an hour and drove it around base. Truck ran amazing and had a ton of power. Couldn't get it up to speed since the speed limit is only 30. Well I got on the main highway and it ran great all the way until about 70. Backed off and started cruising at 55 and the truck started shaking badly. Took it out of overdrive and the shaking went away.

Well about 30 seconds later I decided to get on the throttle more and nothing happened. I went to WOT and it barely started to build mph. I pulled over and the truck was running horribly. It sounded like it was only running on 5 cylinders. I had to put it on the high idle setting because I was afraid it would die. I then turned around and headed back to base. It took me close to a mile to get up to 55mph again. I had to let each gear rev out until about 3k before it wouldn't rev anymore, and then manually shift it to the next gear.

I drove about another mile before I pulled into base. As I was slowing down it just completely stalled and I coasted to the side of the road. It wouldn't start again. I had to get towed back to the dorms by a chevy I started reading online and figured maybe the UVCH might possibly be messed up. So I replaced both of them and the valve cover gasket with no luck. Truck still wont start. The HPOP resi is full to the top of the threads. The truck just keeps cranking and cranking with no indication of even trying to start. I cranked it for about 20 seconds then got out and pushed in the valve on the side of the fuel filter and fuel just dribbled out.

Tach is moving
No smoke out exhaust and can't smell in there when I snif after trying to start
Cel stays on after long cranks. Was NOT on when truck was running like crap before it died
Going to try and obdII scanner tomorrow
Fuses are all good when I physically checked them, going to buy a multimeter to check them
Don't know how to check fuel bowl heater
Fuel filter has 5k miles on it fyi
Fuse number 22 is good
Just replaced the CPS and no luck still


I tried 2 30 second long cranks, unplugged the IPR sensor I believe it is, another 30 second long crank, plugged it back in, and another 30 second long crank. No luck or any indication it was going to start. Yes I took about a 5 minute break between any of the starts. It was interesting though on the first 30 second long crank the oil pressure gauge didn't move at all. It wasn't until about 7-8 seconds on the second crank that it started to move.

Tried unplugging the icp, and still no luck. Also tried taking off the chip to see if that had anything to do with it, and no luck

After a couple weeks I finally got AE

The stored codes:
P1280 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor


And the codes I got both when I ran a KOEO test and buzz test. I could hear all the injectors making a ton of noise, that was pretty cool.
P1298 Injector Driver Module Failure
P1295 Injector Multiple Faults – Bank 1


Can anyone help or point me in a direction. I am not making much money, and don't have much free time so it might take a while to fix the problem. Would rather not throw money at parts if I don't have to.



Thanks,
-Mikey