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I'm probably worried over nothing

1K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  thebeardedbuilder 
#1 · (Edited)
truck hard start ...... hpop or lpop issue

Please I know there's a lot of info here if u need to know anything else just ask cause I'm worried

I have a 97 f350 cclb zf5 with somewhere around 350000 plus km

So I'm in need of some guidance
When I bought the truck it was not running amazing
But had little to no blow by

So I went to get an etest cause I live in Ontario failed bug time due to injectors so naturally my wife bought me swamps baby swamps with new glow plugs uhh harrness and gaskets

While I waited for the new injectors to arrive I ditched the dual steel tanks and selector cause the selector was broke and rear tank was rotten

So in goes a 03 mid ship tank which I cleaned and cleaned again pick up and cause I wasn't sure about the stock mechanical fuel pump I installed a 6.0l pump n filter and a holly 4 to 9psi fuel pressure regulator which I hooked to the stock fuel lines on the frame and regulated down from 60 to 9psi...
(In my head I'm using the 6.0l pump as a lift pump to assist the mechanical)...

Now I'm not sure if this is a good thing or not since I think I am pumping to the fuel bowl but I'm not sure. If attached to the fuel line on the frame

Then got the injectors installed with the new glows harnesses and gaskets and a fresh oil change and new fuel and 2 new batteries hydra 15 with swamps custom tunes and Donaldson 6637 filter

Got the truck started with and expected amount of cranking....

But now every time I try to start the truck it take about 1 min to 1.5 of cranking to get started.ihave little to no blow by but I have very light studders/miss at idel

But at around 2000rpm there is very noticeable studders/miss and a fair amount of white smoke which smells like unburnt fuel or raw fuel

There is no smell of coolant or oil and when I did the oil change there was no water or coolant in the oil

Keep in mind that there is no drive time since all that work was done and maybe has about 9min of run time total

I could be out to left field but any help would be greatly helpful

I am going to bypass the 6.0l pump n reg and just run the mechanical to see if there is a change

Also I have a buddy bringing a scan tool to check the hpop on Thursday

The truck is not on the road so I can't drive it so another question is what should the hpop be at around idel and will just revving the engine be good enough to test the hpop
 
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#2 ·
I'm no fuel system guru, but I can't see how regulating a 6.0 pump down to such low pressures would be good. The factory pump should handle the baby swamps. I would take the 6.0 pump and regulator out of the equation and see what happens. Cheers!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Regulating the pump is probably no big deal. The regulator just lets the excess pressure bleed off to the tank. The mechanic pump is a two stage pump. The upper portion of the pump is a diaphragm pump that pulls fuel from the tank to the bowl under light pressure like 8 psi. That fuel is filtered and then fed to the lower side of the pump which is the high pressure piston portion that feeds the heads. Considering you only ran it for a few minutes there may be some air left in the hpo system. The stock mechanical pump is good for roughly 400hp which you will not touch with baby Swamps. I'm still to this day using a mechanic pump to feed 350/200%s that are dialed in below 400hp. I am in the process of adding a SD pump on a separate circuit to feed the heads along with the mechanical but only triggered under higher demand with a Logic Controller. I would verify you are getting full fuel pressure at the regulator. Then idle it for a little and I would slowly increase rpm to push the air out of the oil rails. Watching ICP and IPR on a scanner would not be a bad idea. Some guys need to do some heavy street pulls to get the air out. Low ICP and or a little air in the oil side of things will not hurt anything. Low fuel pressure and or too much air in the fuel side can damage the injectors. Any time I have the fuel system apart I disable the injectors from firing and crank until I am seeing full pressure. Obviously with an electrical pump it just has to be energized with engine off.
 
#4 ·
Ok so I hooked the scan tool up
All info at 800 rpm
Icp* volt* 1.30
Icp 850psi
Ipr 16%

So that was when I got it started
so when I was starting there was 0psi for about 15 to 20 sec of cranking
stopped then started cranking again got 20psi then as I continued to crank it started climbing quickly until the engine started we ran it with out and studders for about 7 min shut it down and the pressure dropped to about 200psi and then after about 1 min of being shut down it was 110psi

So I started it again but I had to crank it for about 15 secs while cranking the psi rises until it start the engine

let it sit for 10 min yo find 0psi again



what should I be looking at here lpop..

I know I need yo check to see if the hpop has any oil in it I'll do that tomorrow

I am assuming the hpop is draining back into the engine when not running

And the long start is to fill the hpop than start the truck

So what would cause the hpop to loose oil but I don't have any leaks under the truck
*
 
#5 ·
Yes, check the reservoir. When the anti-drainback fails, oil drains back from the res to the oil pan. You'll never see it as an external leak.

While cranking so long initially, does the dash lube oil pressure "gauge" respond fairly quickly? Or does it remain at zero until it's about to start?
 
#7 ·
I do believe that the oil gauge springs to the middle almost right away
also this truck is a 97 i was reading somewhere else that in 96 they got rid of the ball check which doesn't make sense cause what is stopping the oil from draining back

Cause what ever is supposed to be stopping the oil from drain back clearly is working

I'll check the res today
 
#6 ·
Yup. ^^^

Open the reservoir lid or remove the plug on one side and the oil pressure sensor on the other side and shine a light inside to see if its empty after sitting overnight.

If so, remove the anti-drain back plug/springs down by the ICP sensor and see if you can see a piece of dirt or something stuck in the ball seat.
 
#8 ·
The later front covers had a standpipe built in to the front cover and HPOP reservoir to prevent drainback. Cheers!
 
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