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Crank but No Start

3K views 28 replies 7 participants last post by  Patrick Feeley 
#1 ·
Hey everyone,

I am currently out of town for school at Fort Knox. I drove Big Red from Colorado Springs to Fort Knox Ky. She did just fine through out the drive.

First couple days here waiting for my class to start on Monday I had shut the truck off and started the truck multiple times. The last time I started her was when I did a beer run, I parked the truck and started my class. A day and half later went to go to the store to get some things and the truck wouldn't start. First couple cranks it seemed like a dead battery/ cold starting.

Prior to leaving Colorado I had replaced all 8 glow plugs, glow plug harness/gaskets, glow plug relay and 2 new batteries at 1021 CA and 1000 CCA. I also replaced the fuel pump about a year ago and prior to leaving my water pump (AutoZone) started leaking so I replaced that. Back to the no start I called my insurance company and had them send out road side to jump start me but to no luck of the tiny car they sent could not jump my truck. So I called for another jump and they sent out a big flat bed tow truck to jump me. 20+ minutes later and the tow truck couldn't even jump my truck.

I replaced the CPS and have an IPC, IPR and a IDM coming. I have drained the fuel bowl and through the cranking it has filled back up so I have ruled that I have fuel into the fuel bowl. I just don't know what is else could it be. When the tow truck was jumping my truck it would only get to about 12.78 -12.8 volts and when I turn the key it would drop to 11.3-11.7 volts.

Anyone have some input, all fuses are good in the engine bay and underdash, wait to start light comes on, the GPR is functioning just right, dip stick registers full for oil. I may swap the GPR out with my spare that I have but I am at a loss right now. If the IPR, IPC, and IDM dont fix it I am going to dig into the valley and replace the lift pump again, and check the UVCH to see if the long trip melted them.

I have no access to any tools other than what I brought and it is a taxi ride to any part store.
 
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#2 ·
Double and triple check that your battery terminals are clean and tight. Slightest corrosion or a terminal barely loose will cause issues.

These need every bit of juice to start.

How old is the starter? If it's cranking slow with good strong batteries then it may be time for a new starter.

You will see a voltage drop when the key is turned since the GPR is on and can stay on up to 2 minutes depending on how cold/warm it is
 
#3 ·
I will take a look at the battery terminal to make sure they are nice and tight.

Start sounded good when problem first initially happened. No sound of sluggish, binding or cutting in and out from the starter.

As mentioned I have an IPR & plug, and IDM on the way. I will try swapping out my GPR and IPC sensor with my spares to test also.

Just not sure why if it is the IDM, why it would just crap out. Good thing is it got me all the way to Fort Knox. Just gotta fix it in order to get home.
 
#4 ·
No need to change your GPR to test it. Just use a pair of jumper cables and jump the posts. Leave it on for say 60 seconds and then crank it. Make sure to leave them attached while cranking, but also make sure they are out of the way of any moving parts. . . .
 
#6 ·
I'll give that a try, would you suggest a battery jump box being attached to the GPR. Its 235 CA and 800 peak amps. I bought 2 for the future just encase I ever get a dead battery I can hook up to both.

Will the engine crank if it is an issue with the ignition cylinder?

I think I read once that it will, but I might have it reversed in my head.
I dont think it will but when my master cylinder went out the clutch interlock plug broke so I have it wired to a momentary switch so I turn the key, wait for the WTS light to turn off and wait a couple more seconds for GPR then I attempt to start.

Thanks for the replies guys. The IDM was overnighted I should get it sometime today so I'll give it a shot when it comes in.

Haven't had a chance to get out to try some of the suggested areas since school goes from 6am to 6pm sometimes.
 
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#8 ·
UPDATE:

New IDM, New CPS, 2 New batteries and the truck still sounds slow on cranking like if the batteries are dead. Checked the HPOP and it is good on oil.

Gonna do stater relay on the fender tomorrow first, and swap the old GPR back on the truck. If none of those solve the problem them Ill try the starter. (if the starter is good I am at a loss of what it could be).

Question:
Lets say after replacing the starter relay on fender and GPR don't solve it would the starter be a possible culprit?

Question 2: If the starter checks out fine what could cause a low voltage/amp/cranking for starting.
 
#10 ·
Money, money, money, money



Ill give it a shot, I got a starter, starter switch (fender mounted solenoid), and taking in the alternator to get checked tomorrow.

Hopefully after all these parts she will start. Any other input is appreciated. After all this I think I am going to get my truck flashed over to OBDII and look at scan tools for future problems.

Thanks again everyone, please any other input will be appreciated. I am at a lose with all this. I just dont have the time to plug and play one part at a time to fix it. I got till the end of April before I have to head back to Colorado.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Alternator Passed
Starter Passed
Got me a start relay(fender mount), hopefully that does the trick.
If I'm not too ticked off I'll start working on the replacing the IPR.


RECENT UPDATE: @ 9:25PM

Put the starter relay(fender mount) on and attempted to start the truck. Still sounds sluggish and low on power when trying to crank, literally sounds like the battery is almost dead but they have 12.5v.

Parts Replaced:
-Starter Relay(fender mount)
-Glow Plug Relay
-CPS
-IDM
- 2 new batteries

Parts Tested and Passed
-Starter
-Alternator

Checked Ohm on passenger and driver side glow plugs
-00.0 Correction (Not Infinite)
-Unplugged the IPC Sensor(No oil in connector/Dry)

Still NO Start
Would the HPOP cause a symptom like this?
Would the trip of 1600 miles and oil being worn down cause a symptom like this?
Would I be opening the wallet again for a PCM?
Could going from 6000 feet in elevation to 710 be a problem?
 
#13 ·
Spun up just fine with a nice whine(not sure if spelled right), no grinding, clunking, or odd noises.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Oil with recent trip 5000 mi
I wouldn't even know where to start.

I may have missed typed, each glow plug is reading 00.0. I though correct me if i am wrong 00.5 to 2 ohms. My multi-meter is not reading 1_ _. _(infinite) so the lower the better correct. I will also try a continuity test just to double check tomorrow.

If none of this checks out, Big Red is going into the stealership. :please::banghead::banging::mad:
 
#19 ·


If you turn up your volume at 18 seconds you can kinda here a sluggish noise that just started/Noticed this morning.



First time since I have been working on the truck that the Check Engine Light has come on.



This is an attempt with Key on and trying to crank the truck at the starter solenoid.

Attempted on the first video with the clutch stuffed in. The Clutch Interlock Plug broke a while back and I have it wired to a momentary switch. That is why I am reaching under the dash.
 
#20 ·
UPDATE

Pulled Valve cover to check ohms on glow plugs. Each glow plug is at 00.8 at 200 ohm reading on the meter.

Checked continuity on uvc harnesses to all glow plugs and injectors. They all have continuity.

Attempted to crank truck with glow plugs out just to see if maybe there was a build up of fluid.

Cranking still sounded the same.
 
#22 ·
SHE'S ALIVE!

So after checking all under the valve covers and everything checking out, I started on pulling the fuel bowl, and lift pump. Ripped the started out and called up the taxi.

Bought a new starter, couple more gal of oil, drip pan and sockets for IPR and lift pump bolt. Cleaned up the valley a little and slapped everything back in.

1st Attempt cranked a lot faster but still wouldn't kick over
2nd
3rd
4th
Cant really remember the amounts I tried cranking, I am pretty sure it was just all the fuel lines priming up since I opened the fuel lines and drained the fuel bowl.

Eventually it started right up with a little of purging the air out of the system.

Replaced IDM, IPR, IPC, CPS, Fuel lift pump, Starter, Starter Relay, 2 New Batteries.

Checked the glow plugs, checked the UVC harness and rewired the IPR plug and routed the wire around the fuel bowl instead of under the fuel bowl.

Just wanna say thanks to all that put their input, advice, thoughts, and experience. I am very appreciative and happy I am not stuck at Fort Knox and that I don't have to send her into the dealership.

On a good note I have replace what everyone usually takes their time in replacing in 2 weeks, grand total about $1200 in parts thrown at it but I needed it fixed. Thanks again everyone glad that she is started.

 
#24 ·
My 97 7.3 will crank, but won't start. Two brand new batteries. New fuel pump. New glow plugs and wiring harness under valve covers. Truck has been parked for a few months, but was running just fine before I parked it. While cranking, fuel pump fills fuel filter bowl up. Engine "WAIT TO START" light doesn't come on now. Tach doesn't move while cranking. No signs of firing off at all. Any ideas?
 
#28 ·
is it the bottom wire on the fuel heater that looks like a sending unit "L" plug, or the upper one that is rounded, about the size of a dime? I already pulled the bottom wire and still blowing the 30 amp #22 fuse. Blown three now. the truck only started once, ran for about two minutes, then died and never restarted, just keep blowing that fuse.
 
#29 ·
It should be the upper dime-sized one. The lower one is the water-in-fuel sensor. The heater plug is a funky-looking spade connector that comes off perpendicular to the bowl (straight out). Do not pry too hard or you can damage the heart's feedthrough (about $40-$50) and cause a leak. Alternatively, you can disconnect the small spade connector inside the fuel bowl (I like this method myself). Cheers!
 
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