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Rough idle, truck dies, rough running

6K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  95sorensonOBS 
#1 ·
Hello all,
Been having problems with my truck for a while now. It's been starting fine but dies randomly. It was really bad to the point where I would get it to start but it would die instantly. It started to feel low on power.... Kind of like it's still cold.

Replaced CPS and noticed the large positive terminal was broke and loose on the passenger side battery. Fixed that and truck did not die anymore but still felt low on power.

Now the truck will idle when cold for about 3-4 minutes and just shut off like I turned the key off. I get intermittent hiccups while accelerating that get worse with the more throttle I give it until it's warmed up. Once it's warm, it stays running and I get very few hiccups while driving but it still feels like it's missing or something.

Just had a shop check for codes. He did a buzz test and every injector threw a code for voltage( he did not tell me what code, just that it was a code for high or low voltage)
He also ran a cylinder contribution test but it would not read( says there was throttle movement but no one touched the throttle)

My throttle pedal has no response when first started. I have to flick it up a few times to get it to respond.

Also, my IPR sensor has oil in the plug (has since I bought the truck) I believe that's what's causing a small lope in the idle.

Could either of these issues be causing the dying and low power?

I have not dug too much into it due to the fact that we have been slammed with snow and something just went wrong with our cars transmission.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I can't do too much until I get the car back and see my repair bill on that but want to get the truck back up and running without throwing parts at it that I can't afford
 
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#2 ·
Don't know what year this is or what type engine.

Does sound like a hard start cold or no start cold.
 
#3 ·
Sorry, it's a 95 7.3
TS chip
Afe intake
Rosewood injectors

And it usually starts just fine if I cycle the plugs once or twice.
On the colder days it runs like it's only firing on a few cylinders for a second, barely running and puking smoke. Then it catches up and runs fine. There is no warning when it shuts off. It will be running fine and then all of a sudden it's like someone reached in and turns the key off

Btw we have been in temps from the 20's down to -25 and I have not had to plug it in yet
 
#4 ·
No input?

I'm gonna bite the bullet and put a new ICP in it since I know it's bad and causing issues

Sinister diesel has them on sale for $125
Any other options for better pricing?
 
#6 ·
Glow plugs and injectors were done @216k I now have 241k and it's been about 5 years. GPR is good, I have started in -15 numerous times, only cranks for a second or two before starting not plugged in.
Ucvh I will be checking when I get my car back, I blew the transmission and am down to 1 vehicle.

Btw I have two plugs on my throttle. 1 I'm guessing is the TPS is the other my ivs? They are not by each other like I have seen. The one is closer to the pedal and has a button the gets pushed when no throttle is being given
 
#9 ·
my truck does the same thing. I had a brand new engine installed by ford about 20,000 miles ago. it was fine for a while. I live in texas and it doesn't get that cold here. if the temp drops below like 30 I have a hard time starting it. It can sit and run for about 20 min. and sometimes its fine. Ive actually been driving at about 70 and been on the road for 15 min or so and it just dies.but it will automatically just start right back up. I was really hoping the new engine would fix all my problems but that isn't the case it seems.Its a real pain. to have no issues at all it has to sit and run for about 30 min. before i can go anywhere.
 
#10 ·
Mine has became a little more random. I have not had it die on my the past couple of times it's been started, no hiccups, still running sluggish though. Replaced fuel filter and put seafoam in the fuel and oil. Needing to do an oil change now
 
#11 ·
First off I would invest in something to read the Obd2 data. I use Torque Pro/Car Gauge Pro. Have you checked fuel pressure?
 
#13 ·
OK guys, finally got to pulling the valve covers today. Both sides had burnt plastic. Passenger side rear plug was burnt at i think the rear glow plug pin, couldn't get the plug apart. drivers idea was burnt on the front plug rear glow plug pin all the way through to the pig tail and the rear plugs clip broke taking it off.

What causes them to burn up like that? Anything I should check before getting new harnesses and should I just replace all of the pigtails while I'm at it? Is it an easy process?

I've also heard of replacing it with 99+ harnesses, is it worth it and how hard is it? I hate electrical stuff
 
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