96 F250 PSD TTB Help3 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-25-2014, 08:58 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 257
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
96 F250 PSD TTB Help3

I just bought a 96 xcab lwb 4x4 with the TTB. Im looking to do a Dana 60 soon as I can get one and go through it and install. ard part is finding one around here.

Okay problem I'm having is that the other day I was drivng and heard a awful grinding noise metal to metal is the best to describe it. I looked and the passenger side caliper bolt were gone so got new ones put in. I drove about a mile or two and the noise came back. Only does it forward not in reverse and this is all in 2WD havent tried 4WD yet. I seen where to caliper was rubbing the inside of the wheel but isnt now.

When I bought it the guy said the manual lock outs were acting up and gave me a new set with the truck.

My question is can it be the manual lock outs doing this or something else I need to look at to determine this noise.

My fiance could feel the grinding in the floor board with her foot. It seemed after I fixed the caliper issue when in the throttle it would some times go away but not always.

This truck is running the 16.5 wheels and of course freaking 35x15x16.5 TSL Swampers so full turning i do rubb the leaf up front bout to change to BF Goodwrenches 35x12.5x16.5

Any help would be greatly appricatied I'm a mechanic just never ran into this. Some pics of the truck added sorry for the long write up but trying to explain much as possible if any other info just ask I will let you know.

96 F250 PSD TTB Help3-96-psd.jpg
96 F250 PSD TTB Help3-96-psd2.jpg
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 02-25-2014, 10:30 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 257
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Some things that I have found that it could be
Spindle Bearings
U-Joints
Hub bearings

I only hear the sound on the passenger side
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 02-25-2014, 10:59 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: unvrhrdofit, SK
Posts: 6,735
Thanks: 0
Thanked 31 Times in 30 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Sounds like bearings. Have you jacked up the front corners and spun each wheel? If you can feel it through the floor boards it shouldn't be too hard to find. Checks each wheel for play too ie: bearings and ball joints.

What did he mean by saying manual hubs are "acting up"? They either work or they don't. I suppose if you have a hub stuck in the locked position that's spinning an axle you could have an issue further into the diff but I doubt it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 02-25-2014, 11:11 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 257
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I'm pulling it in the shop later today and jacking it up and checking each wheel. IDK what the guy meant jut said you had to back and pull forward more than usual but i havent had problem i have drove the truck for a week and a half now everyday no problems. I picked it up in Indiana and drove 4.5 hours home no issues not even a pull one way or the other just rough ride with those Super Swampers.
I have the new manual hubs in a box still he gave me didnt see a problem putting them in but i have turned the ones it now and they are in free with ease.
i have been told on another site to check the spindle bearings
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 02-25-2014, 11:39 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: unvrhrdofit, SK
Posts: 6,735
Thanks: 0
Thanked 31 Times in 30 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yeah there are two big bearings per side that your whole hub assembly rides on. One inner and one outer. I bet one of them is piled up. When you pull the locking hubs off you might even find metal shrapnel in there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 02-25-2014, 12:06 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 257
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
okay i just went out tried 4wd a little difference not much. i pulled in the shop and jacked up one side at a time and nothing on the driver side but the passenger side i could shake the wheel rotor and all like it was just loose.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 02-25-2014, 12:18 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 257
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
well im going to say wheel bearing and race might just be the problem im going to pull it down tomorrow after work hopefully.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 02-25-2014, 06:01 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: unvrhrdofit, SK
Posts: 6,735
Thanks: 0
Thanked 31 Times in 30 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yup if you have play like that and a growl you will need both bearings/races for sure. There is a special socket you will need to deal with the nuts. I'm trying to remember how the d50 comes apart vs the d60. It's very similar though, just a little difference in the nuts/washers etc. Iirc you will need heavy snap ring pliers for the 50. 60 has more of a spring retention thing you can get out with screw drivers. If it's all loose and chewed up your nuts may be loose enough that you can spin them out by hand but you will need the special socket to tighten it back up and seat the bearings properly.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 02-25-2014, 07:52 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 257
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Alright thanks for that info I will check with my guy at the auto parts store he is a old school gear head. I'm hoping to tear it down one day the week and put it all back together saturday
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 02-25-2014, 09:19 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: unvrhrdofit, SK
Posts: 6,735
Thanks: 0
Thanked 31 Times in 30 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
You bet. It really isn't a complicated job. Basically just need the socket and snap ring pliers. Rest is basic hand tools. Grease, rags, parts cleaner, good heavy punch at least 12" long to drive the old races out of the hub, hammer, Allan wrenches for the locking hubs...that's about it.

Oh a case of suds and a buddy help the job too lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors