Rear axle removal questions... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-18-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Rear axle removal questions...

Two part question actually....
1997 F350 Crew cab, standard rear, auto, 4wd

1) Do the rear axles have any retaining clips in the differential, or will they slide out after removing the retainer on the backing plate? Any special tools for removal or is the bearing easy to remove?

2) I'm asking because my left rear drum brake was too tight, overheated and glazed. I'm wondering how this happened. POSSIBLY I had it a bit too tight and over time it started overheating....
But - could the axle be loose, causing the drum to vibrate around the shoes? I have NO gear oil leakage. I'm wondering this as I'm pushing 368,000 and the rear axle bearings have never been replaced.

Thanks in advance to anyone who answers my ramblings!
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post #2 of 10 Old 08-18-2013, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sputnik801 View Post
Two part question actually....
1997 F350 Crew cab, standard rear, auto, 4wd

1) Do the rear axles have any retaining clips in the differential, or will they slide out after removing the retainer on the backing plate? Any special tools for removal or is the bearing easy to remove?

No retaining clips. To remove the axle shaft, from the housing, Take off the (8) 5/8 head bolts on the end of the hub. The axle will slide right out.


2) I'm asking because my left rear drum brake was too tight, overheated and glazed. I'm wondering how this happened. POSSIBLY I had it a bit too tight and over time it started overheating....
But - could the axle be loose, causing the drum to vibrate around the shoes? I have NO gear oil leakage. I'm wondering this as I'm pushing 368,000 and the rear axle bearings have never been replaced.

Thanks in advance to anyone who answers my ramblings!
There is no need to remove the axle to remove the drum. they are independent of each other since mid 85 when they went to the sterling 10.25 axle

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post #3 of 10 Old 08-19-2013, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the answer - let me clarify my second question. I've done the rear brakes and return springs before. I know the drum comes off.
Can the axle bearing be worn enought to cause the axle to vibrate, which would make the drum vibrate around the brake shoes, causing heated brakes? There is NO gear oil leaking so I doubt this is happening. I'm only asking due to MY luck.....

Last edited by sputnik801; 08-19-2013 at 01:41 PM.
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post #4 of 10 Old 08-20-2013, 02:49 AM
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Grab ahold of the hub and see if there is any play. If yes, then yes. If not then no

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post #5 of 10 Old 08-23-2013, 11:22 AM
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Another thing to look at is after you apply and release the parking/emergency brake does it fully release. It is possible that the return spring on the cable inside the drum is broken or emergency brake cable is stuck in the pulled position

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post #6 of 10 Old 08-24-2013, 05:16 PM
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I installed some side steps, didn't use the E brake for many months. Set the E brakes and later released them. Didn't realize they didn't fully release but knew the brakes were dragging. The crimped on silver thingy on the cables had caught on the side step mounts. Sometimes the problem is really simple.

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post #7 of 10 Old 08-28-2013, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies gentlemen. The brakes that burned up have all new return springs, including the parking brake spring. I have new brakes, star wheel adjusters, seals and axle bearings. Next week I'll jack it up & see what happens.
I currently have an intermittent vibration like a drive shaft bearing is worn. However - it will continue if I put the truck in neutral, so I'm assuming it's a rear axle vibrating.
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-01-2013, 10:17 PM
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Does it only happen on the freeway? Worse on decel?

Check the pinion nut torque. The pinion threads are known to wear, fix is a new gear set.

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post #9 of 10 Old 09-07-2013, 09:16 PM
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If you had previously adjusted your brakes you may have got one a little tighter than the other and it could be possible that they self adjusted on their own when you were backing up maybe with a trailer and using your brakes. That is how they self adjust is in reverse when you tap the brake pedal frequently.

Sometimes you can check universals from underneath and will swear they are good .. have some one drive it 25 - 30 mph, get in the bed of the truck and look down at the driveshaft between the cab and bed. If it's a universal you will see a blur on each side of the driveshaft as it turns because it is out of round. Could be the driveshaft is bent or dented also.

If the pinion shaft is loose on the yoke end and the nut is tight as it will get then you will have to do some shimming or put a new crush sleeve behind the bearing. Crush sleeves come in different thickness and you'll need a new pinion seal after your done.
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-07-2013, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the culprit. One of the bonded shoes was defective. The brake material separated from the metal shoe. It rode the drum, causing an overheat and warped the drum. New shoes, cut drums and checked all return springs. ALL fixed. Thanks to all who helped me out!
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