rear yoke - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 08-11-2013, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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rear yoke

hello i have a 1994 f-250 ext cab 8ft bed. I just learned my rear yoke was heavily damaged by a bad universal from previous owner. trying to replace it without spending a whole lot of money. I know its a 10.25 in ford rear with 4.10 gears, with a 30 spline pinion. but i can't find the same style like mine, mine has bolts and straps, all im finding are ubolt style yokes from older 10.25 rears my question is will the older ubolt style replace the bad strap style yoke on my truck? any imput would greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 4 Old 08-27-2013, 07:23 AM
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Hey, had some similar issues with mine. As far as I know you can but it's not really worth the effort. I know the Dana/Spicer number is a 1350, but off hand I can't remember any of the specifics. If you have some time left go to an offroad store and ask them to give you a hand that's how I found my replacement yoke. If you end up doing this yourself make sure you check the pre load before you remove your yoke nut! Hope this helps!
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post #3 of 4 Old 09-25-2013, 09:35 AM
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New Pinion Yoke

I just ordered a new pinion yoke for my rear end. They seem to be mainly selling the u-bolt style clamps for the u-joint caps, and not the old style half-moon style caps.

My pinion was just wrecked by a u-joint blowing up and gouging the pinion mating surface, so I had to replace it. Dennys Driveshaft was a HUGE help. Worked directly with Denny. It was a 2 day process, because after speaking with him, I had to wait til I got home from work to measure my parts. But afterwards, it seems obvious. Since so many people modify gears and suspension and so forth, they cant go by manufactures specs. I ended up having the upgraded pinion (3-1/2" long from base up to centerline of cap). I will be installing a new seal while I am at it. It wasn't leaking before, but might as well while its out. Its a $10 (or less) part.

The next trick will be getting it installed.
I hear that the splines on the pinion gear are slightly "twisted" to remove any slop. Denny instructed me to use a hammer and a block of wood on the pinion to get it on. Once there are enough threads available, he said I could use the nut to finish it off. If you have any experience or pointers, I would really appreciate it.
Good Luck getting your ordered.

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post #4 of 4 Old 09-25-2013, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanc24 View Post
I just ordered a new pinion yoke for my rear end. They seem to be mainly selling the u-bolt style clamps for the u-joint caps, and not the old style half-moon style caps.

My pinion was just wrecked by a u-joint blowing up and gouging the pinion mating surface, so I had to replace it. Dennys Driveshaft was a HUGE help. Worked directly with Denny. It was a 2 day process, because after speaking with him, I had to wait til I got home from work to measure my parts. But afterwards, it seems obvious. Since so many people modify gears and suspension and so forth, they cant go by manufactures specs. I ended up having the upgraded pinion (3-1/2" long from base up to centerline of cap). I will be installing a new seal while I am at it. It wasn't leaking before, but might as well while its out. Its a $10 (or less) part.

The next trick will be getting it installed.
I hear that the splines on the pinion gear are slightly "twisted" to remove any slop. Denny instructed me to use a hammer and a block of wood on the pinion to get it on. Once there are enough threads available, he said I could use the nut to finish it off. If you have any experience or pointers, I would really appreciate it.
Good Luck getting your ordered.
I just used a rubber mallet and was able to hit it on far enough for the nut to grab. I used a 3/4" air gun the rest of the way and it was struggling towards the end. The pinion nut is in the range of 450 lb/ft and that's just ridiculous. I reused my nut because I marked it before removal. All together, start to finish, it took me 1.5 hrs to do the job. It's very simple but can take significantly longer if you're putting that nut on by hand. Remember to thread-lock your straps and might as well check the front while you're down there. Check fluid levels in that rear diff too

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