At my wits end with these brakes!!!!! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 34 Old 10-13-2012, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Question At my wits end with these brakes!!!!!

1995 F250 PSD and since I have bought the truck, the brakes have always bled down while motor is running, but don't bleed off with the motor turned off. There are no leaks under the truck.

First thing was the master cyclinder. Didn't fix it. Replaced it again with a new and not a rebuild. Still does it.

Also bypassed the rear ABS with a compression fitting and hooking the lines together. Still does it.

basically, it is a new system. Master cyclinder, booster, vacuum pump, front calipers, front steel lines, front rubber hoses, rear hose, rear pistons, all pads & shoes (since I was there) are all new!

I found a pinched line on the left rear, replaced it and bleed off has slowed, but still there.

Please help and let me know if I'm missing something. Is there supposed to be a regulator in the vacuum line to prevent too much pressure? Does air in the line cause this? Does my rear pads need more adjustment for the parking brake (it doesn't hold the truck in 1st gear, haven't checked second)? Any info would be greatly appreciated

Plan on towing my 28' pontoon this week and the brakes would be nice to have. Working graveyards so time is really short

Please help!!!.

Thanks again, Dave
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post #2 of 34 Old 10-13-2012, 09:29 AM
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You could always try a "zero-loss" booster from Ford. There was a TSB on it (I'll post it if I can find it). You have to order the part by the number and not the application. Other than that, consider manually adjusting the rear brakes (with the parking brake off) throught the access holes in the backing plates. I've found that the auto-adjusters on the rear brakes don't always work as they should.

Brake Booster, Zero-Loss (94-97)
(Ford) F5TZ-2005-CA (not a service replacement; it must be ordered by the part number, not vehicle application … from TSB 96-25-19, but TSB number not verified)

Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #3 of 34 Old 10-13-2012, 10:46 AM
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Certainly not questioning your ability to do a brake job but you have all new parts. What method did you use to bleed the master cylinder? What method to bleed out air when you replaced lines and bypassed ABS? I would consider bleeding off the system at each wheel one more time if you haven't already. Can take some time depending on what tools are available. Sounds like you could have air in the lines to me.
As for the e-brake, im with Feeley. Ive always manually adjusted in the drum. Get the rear wheels off the ground. I like to take wheels off but dont have to. With the truck in neutral, front wheels chocked adjust on shoes until you feel some drag on the drum while turning by hand. Check with foot. Good luck!
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post #4 of 34 Old 10-13-2012, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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With the brake booster, I bench bled it before install. I did it as I always have with the back feed tubes into the reservoir.

With the rear ABS, I cut both the incoming and outgoing lines and coupled them together with a brass compression fitting.

When I bled the brakes last time, I first started with a vacuum pump at each wheel. Started with the farthest first and worked towards the front. Then, my ever so willing wife came to pump the pedal.

Yesterday morning, I did replace the left rear parking brake cable. That had nothing to do with the problem, but while I was doing that, I also adjusted the parking brake on both sides. One thing that I thought was strange about this was they would keep needing more adjustment after each release of the parking brake. I figured it was tensioning the new cable and getting everything tensioned. Maybe it isn't adjusted enough yet. I will see if the brake will hold in 2nd gear. I doubt it would hold it in 1st, which is a granny gear.

One thing that is strange about this bleed off that I forgot to mention. I push on the pedal and there is about a 1 second delay before it starts to bleed off. This has always been constant and has never changed. Almost like the computer is bypassing something or too much boost finally builds up. FYI, the truck does have a new vacuum pump on it.

I bought the truck for $2K and expected problems, but these brakes are making me turn grey.

I will look into the zero booster. thanks for the info
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post #5 of 34 Old 10-13-2012, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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I just tried the parking brake while in second gear and it does hold the truck back. I would call that adjusted for the parking brake.

I will bleed the brakes next and go from there. I see the zero loss is around $180, so if it isn't tolerable, I will be ordering one. If it's not bad, I'll live with it.

Is there a cheaper alternative (Check valve, pressure relief, etc) to correct this problem?

Any other ideas or comments would be great.

Thanks for the replies,
Dave
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post #6 of 34 Old 10-14-2012, 08:42 AM
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Tousley Ford Parts Online has the booster for $163 (a little cheaper). When I put one on my 94 five or six years ago it was only about $115 I think. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #7 of 34 Old 10-15-2012, 05:31 AM
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Whats a zero loss booster? This could solve a problem I'm having, maybe?

02 Excursion 7.3 4x4 BTS Wanted, USGear OD, 4" MBRP
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post #8 of 34 Old 10-15-2012, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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I am trying to figure that out myself. Just trying to decide if $190 is worth fixing the slow creeping of the brakes. I am just trying to bleed and adjust them now to see if it makes it better.

Are you having the same problem? I have seem that this is a common problem for these years of Fords.
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post #9 of 34 Old 10-15-2012, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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If I was just driving around town it wouldn't be a big deal. It stops the truck just fine and it's flat here.
But I also like to go play and that means hauling a 28' Party Hut down a long and steep boat ramp and the brake bleed can be an issue doing that.
I guess I could always just untie the boat and let the truck keep going!

Has anyone put one on and not have it fix the problem of the brake bleed? $200 is worth putting on for the safety aspect, but it would be a waste if it doesn't fix the problem
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post #10 of 34 Old 10-15-2012, 07:37 PM
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I put one on my 94, but I was not having the "low, creeping pedal" symptoms that get mentioned for the TSB (TSB 96-25-19, I think) associated with the zero-loss booster. My symptoms were more that of the pedal sort-of sucking towards the floor when the brakes were applied. The pedal would also not stay with your foor when releasing the brake. The booster solved my problem.

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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