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post #1 of 9 Old 07-28-2012, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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slop in drivetrain...?

Hey guys I posted awhile back about this figured id try again. When I take off from a stop I have what feels like play in the driveline somewhere. Its like im missing a tooth on my gears or like when I had the ttb front axle with crap bushings and you could feel it moving around when you take off or back up. I have checked all bolts and nuts from the tc, bellhousing, tranny support, drive shaft, u-bolts everything is tight so im thinking it internal someplace, rear axle would be my guess could bad bearingscause this? Any ideas would be super helpful... thanks

96 F-250 ext. cab long box 4x4
Intake, auto meter(oil psi, tranny,boost, EGT) IDM mod, .030 over rebuilt motor, comp 910's, BDP d66 turbo, BDP stage one injectors, BDP fuel system, t500, BDP custom tuned 6pos, coolingmist water/meth, 3in downpipe 4in duals, dana 60 swap, 203* t-stat
traction bars, 6.0 intercooler
furture plans,
BTS, 300/200 sticks, studs, pushrods, t4 mount, NEW PAINT

GOAL= 600+ hp
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-30-2012, 04:05 PM
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How is the rubber surrounding the rear d.s. support bearing? Mine was shot. I could move the bearing up by hand 1-2". Also, have you lubed your slip yoke yet?


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post #3 of 9 Old 07-30-2012, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by stroked out View Post
Hey guys I posted awhile back about this figured id try again. When I take off from a stop I have what feels like play in the driveline somewhere. Its like im missing a tooth on my gears or like when I had the ttb front axle with crap bushings and you could feel it moving around when you take off or back up. I have checked all bolts and nuts from the tc, bellhousing, tranny support, drive shaft, u-bolts everything is tight so im thinking it internal someplace, rear axle would be my guess could bad bearingscause this? Any ideas would be super helpful... thanks
My truck has the same issue. I can feel it everytime it shifts, and when the TC locks i get a solid clunk when i get on and off the throttle, gets worse as speed drops. Everything appears to be in decent shape, but there is some slack in the rear end(but i assume its normal backlash), as well as some slack in the t-case.

Jimmy
97 F-250 ECLB 7.3/E4OD/4wd, 216k miles: FFD 250/200%'s, stock turbo, built trans, e-fuel, Swamps IDM, shimmed 910's, Melling LPOP, welded cam gear/modified pick-up tube. Built and tuned by me

97 F-250 ECSB project truck:250/2's, Gen 3, S468, SD axles, studs/springs, ZF-6
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-01-2012, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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I replaced the carrier bearing when i did the u-joints it looks fine still. im leaning towards the rear end as well. i dont really feel it during shifts mainly when i take off. I think im going to pull my driveshaft and see if i get the same feeling in 4x4.

96 F-250 ext. cab long box 4x4
Intake, auto meter(oil psi, tranny,boost, EGT) IDM mod, .030 over rebuilt motor, comp 910's, BDP d66 turbo, BDP stage one injectors, BDP fuel system, t500, BDP custom tuned 6pos, coolingmist water/meth, 3in downpipe 4in duals, dana 60 swap, 203* t-stat
traction bars, 6.0 intercooler
furture plans,
BTS, 300/200 sticks, studs, pushrods, t4 mount, NEW PAINT

GOAL= 600+ hp
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-02-2012, 12:42 PM
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Have someone else drive the truck and you watch the rear end for axle wrap. The pinion input will rise/twist upward an inch before the truck really starts moving forward. Might need new bushings in the suspension.

+ Matt - Star Tiger +
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, test pipes, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Replacement Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, SRP1.1
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-07-2012, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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hey big fuel i see your running a stage 2 afe. Is there any clearance issues with in IC pipes? there shouldnt be to much axle wrap with the tractions bars, ill take them off and give it a go see if it gets any worse and ill slap some leaf spring bushings in too. thanks

96 F-250 ext. cab long box 4x4
Intake, auto meter(oil psi, tranny,boost, EGT) IDM mod, .030 over rebuilt motor, comp 910's, BDP d66 turbo, BDP stage one injectors, BDP fuel system, t500, BDP custom tuned 6pos, coolingmist water/meth, 3in downpipe 4in duals, dana 60 swap, 203* t-stat
traction bars, 6.0 intercooler
furture plans,
BTS, 300/200 sticks, studs, pushrods, t4 mount, NEW PAINT

GOAL= 600+ hp
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-07-2012, 09:07 AM
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I should have read your SIG better. Axle wrap shouldn't be an issue with traction bars. From a stop are you feeling the drive train "load up" but your not really moving forward?

Yes I do have the AFE St II. About an inche of space between the intakes. I do get a lot of flack on here for running the AFE setup though. Everyone's on the 6637 kick here. They think because it works well for a Off-Highway earth mover then it would be best for them. Not me. As far as I'm concerned you find these parts in heavy industry because they are CHEAP! I worked heavy industry for several years and the first thing you learn is that places like CAT are there to make a buck, priority one. Second thing you learn is that these parts are so big is because they are designed to be on a truck for YEARS. Owners won't spend money to down a truck because if it's not moving then it's not making money and an air filter is not a reason to not warranty an engine in California. Every couple years a new report from the D.O.T. and the E.P.A. and Consumer Reports comes out stating the same thing it did the report before it. An air filter that is 50% plugged filters air better then a brand new one.

Look at Beans Diesel, Swaps Diesel, Banks Diesel (whom won't even look at a non oiled filter), Thoroughbred Diesel, and Diesel Power mag. Two of them sell the 6637 style filter but if you go to their custom builds pages or find their race trucks look what they are running, an oiled filter. Sorry, got off on a rant. I'm just sick of bench racers griping and moaning about an air filter.

Here are some old pics that aren't great:




+ Matt - Star Tiger +
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, test pipes, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Replacement Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, SRP1.1
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal

Last edited by BigFuel; 08-07-2012 at 09:33 AM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-07-2012, 09:15 AM
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A different though for your truck, Pull it forward into your driveway or parking slot. On the front tires push and pull on the top of the tires (kinda hard) and listen/feel for a thumping sound/feel. Do both sides. jack the truck up and put it on stands as far apart as you can get them. Push and pull on all the parts of the steering system. We are looking for a bad ball joint with all this that would cause a front wheel/tire to load up when you are braking and then the truck has to fight through it when the light turns green.

+ Matt - Star Tiger +
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, test pipes, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Replacement Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, SRP1.1
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-08-2012, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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ok so iv been doing some looking and the front feels tight... this is the first axle i have had with king pins so idk if that check works on king pins too but i gave it a try. But i took the rear driveshaft off lubed up the joints and the slip joint when i was putting the driveshaft back on i noticed that the rear joint has some play in the yoke. the lips on the yoke that usually center the u joint one side is angle idk if it came like that or if it broke off so it doesnt stop the u joint from moving over some then you can move the driveshaft from side to side in the caps. I dont know if that makes any sence its the only way i can explain it. so if anyone feels like checking out there yoke to see if it looks like mine that would be great. thanks

96 F-250 ext. cab long box 4x4
Intake, auto meter(oil psi, tranny,boost, EGT) IDM mod, .030 over rebuilt motor, comp 910's, BDP d66 turbo, BDP stage one injectors, BDP fuel system, t500, BDP custom tuned 6pos, coolingmist water/meth, 3in downpipe 4in duals, dana 60 swap, 203* t-stat
traction bars, 6.0 intercooler
furture plans,
BTS, 300/200 sticks, studs, pushrods, t4 mount, NEW PAINT

GOAL= 600+ hp
stroked out is offline  
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