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Old 06-28-2012, 07:23 AM
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Shifting Issue 97 OBS 5 Speed

Okay I know this has been addressed but can someone put it in girls terms, I know a bit and can do alot on my truck, but kind of lost reading some of the other threads. I have a 97 OBS 5 speed manual with 205k on her and she is a daily driver as well as pulls my 4 horse gooseneck slant like a champ. We replaced the clutch and pressure plate in 09 with a valair and she has been fine until oh about two weeks ago she started throwing a fit bad (typical girl for ya lol). The truck first started having issues going into reverse which actually started awhile back (I never had an issue but anyone else that drove my truck had trouble getting her into gear), and now it is near impossible to put her into gear (1st when towing/2nd when daily). Within the last few days I now have noticed that I have to literally slam the pedal down to get her started and have to start her in gear if I want a chance of moving her. The pedal response is very little, do not feel any engagement or action except maybe an inch space off the floor. I checked the clutch pedal bushing and it looks fine, might go grab a new one tonight after work just in case. I am almost positive it is not the clutch, and just want to know where I should start to look first. I have scheduled to take her to the shop (arizona affordable diesel) this coming week if I cannot or am unable to figure it out on my own. What are some easy things I can do to eliminate possiblities? Any help would be greatly appreciated and please put it in girls terms. I have had suggestions from the hydrolic system to master/slave cylinder to fork..I just would like to know what I can do to check some things out. Thanks for your help!
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:14 PM
Hee Hee, he's doing it...
 

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Don't know the Manual trans nearly as well as the Auto. It uses a master/slave clutch set up correct? Look under the hood for a smaller brake master cylinder looking thing on the firewall about where the clutch pedal is mounted on the other side. This is the Clutch Master Cylinder. Check the fluid level and quality (full/clear). Only fill with DOT 3 rated brake fluid. If the fluid is low there is a reason for that. Move on down.

SET PARKING BRAKE, BLOCK WHEELS ON BOTH SIDES, AND TRUCK OFF!
You will not believe how many people roll over themselves because they're lazy

Have a friend read you each step, good to have one anyway for later on in the list and to hand you tools and beer

From under the truck position yourself so that you are looking at the drivers side of the transmission case/housing. Put your hand on it. Close to where it starts to bellow out going toward the motor will be a roughly 3"x3" square rubber dust boot sticking out of the case parallel to the ground, perpendicular to the transmission. Put your hand on it. Sticking out of the boot is the clutch fork. Put your hand on it. Attached to the fork near the end and running forward to another mount is the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Put your hand on it. Between the Clutch Fork and the the Clutch Slave Cylinder is an Actuator Rod mostly housed in a rubber dust boot of it's own. Is the boot still intact? Pull boot toward the Clutch Fork (off the Slave Cylinder) to reveal more of the Rod and the inside of the boot (wear safety glasses and keep your mouth closed). Is it clean and free of oil inside the boot (using a light look inside of the Slave Cylinder again for leaking fluid and dirt)? If yes, move on. If no, remove Slave Cylinder from vehicle, go to Ford and order a Clutch Slave Cylinder Kit [P/N 7560]. Rebuild Slave Cylinder, re-install Slave Cylinder, bleed Slave Cylinder like you would the brakes. Drive safely.

If you said yes right above ^^^ stay under the truck and have a friend sit in the driver seat pressing and releasing the clutch peddle. Check movement of the Clutch Fork. Is there good movement of more then 1.5-2" at the end of the fork? If yes, most likely bad internal transmission ball detente and keeping you from selecting a gear. The transmission thinks its in a gear and won't let you into the next. It's a safety detente (like a check-ball) ball that rides on a spring and keeps the manual gears from falling into gear while you are already in one (so that while in second, third won't accidentally engage). If no, most likely bad Master Clutch Cylinder up top. Replace, fill, and bleed like a brake system.

Keep us posted...

Last edited by BigFuel; 06-28-2012 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:15 PM
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Fluid level is full and clear. Checked that last night. I will print off what you wrote and take a peak under the truck tomorrow or Saturday when I can get a spare set of hands. Thanks for the info and I will let you know what and if I find anything.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:51 PM
Hee Hee, he's doing it...
 

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Awesome, happy hunting.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:08 PM
spool up that turbo!!


 

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the slave cylinder is more then likely bypassing it wont leak but wont build pressure either replace the slave and drive it like you stole it
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:12 AM
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How hard is it to replace the slave? I am purdy good at working on her, but definitely not a pro, specially when it comes to transmission or driveline issues. Just replaced her fuel system when she hit 200K, guess thats what she wanted for all her hard work throughout the years lol. Can't complain I have had her since 05 and she had just 126K on her and now 7 years later she has 205K which many are hauling miles...one of my best trucks by far and at 205K and her age I knew I would have some replacements and repairs in my future which I am more than happy to do to keep her going.
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:25 AM
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MUCH simpler test (but you still have to slide under the truck) - have a friend operate the clutch while you observe the movement of the fork. Grab a tape measure. The very end of the fork should move about 1/2" - 9/16" with full movement of the pedal. If there is that much movement, then the problem is internal in the clutch, probably the pressure plate fingers. More likely scenario is that there is LESS than that much movement, which fingers the clutch hydraulics (master, line, slave).

Don't bother replacing just the slave. The master is just as likely to be at fault, and you can't narrow it down to one or the other. Plus, bleeding the system after replacing either one is a PITA. And if either one is going, the other is probably not far behind. Easy fix - buy a complete hydraulic system; it's the master, line and slave all assembled, filled, bled and sealed. Installs in minutes.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:32 AM
spool up that turbo!!


 

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Well the slaves in my truck are constantly going out I went to ford and got the whole pre bled master and slave kit works like a champ


iPhone auto correcting incorrectly like a boss
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:21 PM
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i would bet that it is still in the clutch pedal, arm, rod area. there are lots of places that can wear and cause this problem. there is the bushing. there is the rod to the master cylinder itself. there is the little nub on the lever arm. and there is the lever arm where it bolts to the pedal assembly. all these pieces can wear. and a little wear can go along way
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:49 PM
Hee Hee, he's doing it...
 

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These guys have manuals take their advice first.
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