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To cover mine and terryknight's thoughts I would imagine that all you would need to do for a test is to remove the forward drive shaft, lift one wheel (pointed straight ahead and unlocked), and spin it:
-If the wheel rotates smoothly and the input yoke in the diff DOESN'T rotate with it, then the hub is working in the off position. Confirm with the other side.
-If the wheel rotates AND the diff's input yoke, then the hub is still engaged when you think that it's off. Confirm other side. With this I'd then look up to the transfer case as I do believe that the T-case should be in neutral-to-the-front-axle while in 2WD.
-If the wheel does not rotate then you likely have two issues, the hubs not disengaging and a locker in the diff and it's trying to send your input to the other side.
-'97 Mini Monster
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank
-'15 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4
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Last edited by BigFuel; 06-12-2012 at 01:24 PM.