Dana 60 swap binding when turning in 2wd - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:17 PM
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Dana 60 swap binding when turning in 2wd

Just did my dana 60 swap. Kingpin 60. Replaced axle u-joints,wheel bearings, brakes and hubs. I'm getting binding while turning like it's in 4wd. Does it while turning a little but gets worse at full crank. Anybody have any ideas?
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:17 AM
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Just throwing this out there, are your hubs manual and are you sure that they are unlocked?
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:40 AM
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Manual hubs and unlocked. Gonna go jack it up in a little bit and try to see what's going on.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:45 AM
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I'm not real knowledgeable on manual locking hub front axles. Is there still an electro-magnetic switch in the front pumpkin?
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:28 PM
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sounds to me like it is in 4wd a simple look will eliminate this.

big fuel - i've never seen a switch in a front diff
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terryknight View Post
big fuel - i've never seen a switch in a front diff
First I have not worked on Ford 4WD's, I was just throwing stuff out there to be checked. My 4WD knowledge comes from 4Runners.

Imports (like 4runners) and newer diff's use a large (softball-ish) electro-magnet to engage the pumpkin to accept power from the transfer case by way of the forward shaft and send power to the left and right wheel (no I don't mean a locker). If you have auto locking hubs they'll then auto-sync (or manual hubs) and allow the diff's power to transfer through the hubs to be applied to the wheel. Manual hubs would still be stronger then auto hubs but same idea. The electro-magnet switch would allow you to go into 4 wheel low but still be in 2WD (by disconnecting the connector) because the forward shaft wouldn't be able to transfer it's power to the diff. just free spin. If the Fords had this then I was going to say that the switch is stuck in the on position and trying to power the front wheels left to right.

KC97HD - This brings up another thought, when you bought the D60 was it used? Do you KNOW that it DOESN'T have a locker up front. Maybe your binding isn't the joint at the wheel but power trying to move left and right through the front end and locked hubs.

Last edited by BigFuel; 06-12-2012 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:04 PM
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It wouldn't matter if it had a locker if it has manual hubs sounds like the hubs aren't fully unlocking back up around a street corner a few times it usually gets them unlocked until you can get some new hubs


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Old 06-12-2012, 01:04 PM
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To cover mine and terryknight's thoughts I would imagine that all you would need to do for a test is to remove the forward drive shaft, lift one wheel (pointed straight ahead and unlocked), and spin it:

-If the wheel rotates smoothly and the input yoke in the diff DOESN'T rotate with it, then the hub is working in the off position. Confirm with the other side.

-If the wheel rotates AND the diff's input yoke, then the hub is still engaged when you think that it's off. Confirm other side. With this I'd then look up to the transfer case as I do believe that the T-case should be in neutral-to-the-front-axle while in 2WD.

-If the wheel does not rotate then you likely have two issues, the hubs not disengaging and a locker in the diff and it's trying to send your input to the other side.

Last edited by BigFuel; 06-12-2012 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:05 PM
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had no idea about the electric switch that's interesting. all my experiences have been with the big 3 front axles. haven't even messed with a jeep.

i thought of the locker idea, but unless the transfer case is engaged or the hubs are locked there should be no binding
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFuel View Post
-If the wheel does not rotate then you likely have a locker in the diff and it's trying to send your input to the other side.
if the hubs are not locked it doesn't matter. the wheel will spin freely. however if one hub is locked it can bind
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