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Old 11-29-2013, 12:52 PM
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No power accelerating hard

Hello,

Thanks to all that regularly contribute. You've built quite an archive.

I replaced glow plugs on my '00 F250, 7.3, 6 speed. Removed intercooler lines, removed valve cover, replaced plugs (all but one tested bad), and reassembled. The next morning (friggin cold) it started great, but ran funny. I drove for 20 minutes with issues when I tried to accelerate hard. It would run fine in all gears until about 1700-2000 rpm. Once I hit the higher rpms, the accelerator would go soft and the rpms would jump to 2200-3000 rpms without any significant power.

When I stopped driving I popped the hood and inspected the fuel lines BC I smelled diesel. The water fuel separator valve was leaking bady. I did a quick fix with an O ring until I could get a replacement. The truck has continued to lose power and jump rpms despite having the fuel issue fixed. I have inspected all of the intercooler joints and they seem to be sealed.

I've driven about 100 miles since the problem started. It doesn't happen in 1-2 gears. If I punch it hard in gears 4-OD it will fail to accelerate at 17-1800 rpms, accelerate only very slowly to the point that passing on two lane would be scary.

Any thoughts appreciated. I have a few ideas, but am hoping to tap into your knowledge before I start replacing sensors or dropping the fuel tank.

Thanks
FFA
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:47 AM
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Do you have a boost gauge in your truck, if so is it tee'd in before the map sensor. I had my hose blow off the tee and lost all kinds of power.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:56 AM
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Talking

I checked the MAP sensor. . . no dice. Removed both glow plug/injector electrial connectors on valve cover, check redplaced. Unscrewed the main electrical connection on driver side of engine, checked pins, reinstalled, checked all electrial connectors in area of prior work. After a test drive, it isn't revving as much without power, but remains somewhat soft. As far as I can tell, there isn't anything I changed that should have made a difference.

So. . . there is a bunch of kak on the fuel pickup that fell off, or other fuel issue?
Air in fuel system?! Could it be that simple? Surely fuel pump is self priming, I did not fill filter housing with fuel after draining to replace water separator valve.
I have an intermittent connection on an injector or two (would throw code?)?

It isn't thowing any codes. . . I should probably take the lazy route and just wait for a code, lol.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:21 AM
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Problem Solved?

I replaced the fuel water shutoff and changed the fuel filter(probably unnecessary). Performance is significantly improved, with some lingering hesitation/lack of power at higher rpms. I have a feeling my O ring quick fix allowed air to be introduced to the fuel system. Kind of counter intuitive because it would seem to me that anything on the filter housing that's a place for air to get in would simply show up as a fuel leak. . .

Is it necessary to bleed injector lines on vehicles with electrionic injectors? I'm used to working with 70-80's tractors with mechanical injection pumps.

Thanks for the help. . .
FFA
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:10 PM
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you do not have to bleed the lines, they will self bleed. you also can pull air in with out leaking fuel,
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7.3, no acceleration, power, rpm jump

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