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Old 02-17-2013, 02:32 PM
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No Crank, No nothing.

Hey guys,

This is my first post and I hope someone can help. I have a 2000 F350 7.3L. I changed my glow plugs a couple of days ago. After I was finished, I forgot to hook up the glow plug wiring harness on the drivers side. I got in and tried to start the truck and it fired right up but was running very rough. When I realized what I had done. I shut the key off and hooked up the wiring harness. When I got back in; the truck tried to start but acted as if the batteries were draining very quickly. The accessory lights went dim and then nothing.

When I put the key in the ignition, while the door is open, the buzzer will come on but the dome lights that used to come on, no longer come on. There are no accessory lights, no dash lights, no radio, no headlights, nothing. There is a very fast clicking noise coming from the top right relay in the interior fuse panel. When you pull the relay the clicking noise stops. Obviously because the relay is what is switching.

I tested both batteries and they read 12.6 volts or higher. I have pulled and checked every fuse from the interior fuse panel and the power distribution box under the hood. There were two mini fuses blown under the hood. I replaced those and none of the others were damaged. I checked the the starter relay on the passenger filter. It has power. I get power when I turn the key over, even though no other lights come on and the truck still does not try to crank. Jumping across the two terminal does nothing. The starter was replaced this summer, the alternator was replaced two weeks ago. One battery is about a month old and the other is less than two years old. Both came from Ford and I believe they both have 850 CCA.

I have had problems with this truck before and I have always been able to find the answers on here but I have not found a thread with a problem like this. I know there are some bad MF's on here so if anybody can help me figure this out, ya'll can.

Last edited by kygoat; 02-17-2013 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:40 PM
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DITTO!!!

I am having the very same problem in my 97 F350. It just started this morning and was looking to see if this was a topic already and found this.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:21 PM
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Just cause the batts read 12V (unhooked from parallel, right?) doesn't mean they're good.
Load test them INDIVIDUALLY.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:44 PM
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C'mon guys, 43 views and no one has an idea of what the problem could be? If bigthompson is having this problem too, this must have happened to someone else besides us.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:02 PM
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? You don't wanna load test batteries?
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:14 PM
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I know how to isolate each battery when checking voltage but I have never
load tested a battery.

I'm not sure what the purpose of the load test is. I understand that the batteries could show good voltage but not have enough amps to crank the starter. If that were the case, I would think that at least the other electrical functions, i.e (dome light, radio lights, WTS light) would come on when I tried to use another truck to jump my truck today.

I have heard other vehicles make the clicking sounds when the batteries were dead but when you connect another vehicle with jumper cables the accessory lights will come on. Mine won't come on at all. I'll look for a thread on load testing and post the results tomorrow night.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kygoat View Post
I know how to isolate each battery when checking voltage but I have never
load tested a battery.

I'm not sure what the purpose of the load test is.

O.K. So now I know the purpose of the load test. If the voltage of the batteries drops after I turn everything on, then something is drawing power from the batteries.

So to do this properly I should disconnect the passenger side battery because it is the starting battery and load test the drivers side battery first to see if the accessories are drawing power from that battery. Is that correct?

Also...because both batteries are connected together if i hook jumper cables up to the starting battery the running vehicle should charge both batteries.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:41 PM
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Neither battery is the starting battery, they both are. Parallel means the voltage is the same, but amperage is increased.
Basically you take it to a shop/auto store, they put a load on it with a machine, and test it.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:46 AM
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FIXED!!!


I finally got my truck back on the road. My battery cables were extremely corroded. The small gauge cable from the battery to the starter solenoid had a good enough connection to register voltage but once a load was placed on it I wasn't getting anything. I just ran another large guage wire from the battery to the solenoid to test it out and it works like a champ. New cables are on the way and that should take care of the brittle and corroded cables and stop this from happening again.

Hope this helps with your problem!!!!!

Let us know
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Old 02-22-2013, 03:27 PM
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O.K.

Symptoms: No crank, no start. No interior lights or accessories, no nothing.

Solution: I read the wiring diagrams in the back of the haynes manual. I noted where I had power and what features were not working. In the wiring diagrams the one thing that everything had in common was the ignition switch. I just got through replacing the ignition switch under the steering column (super easy to do and only cost about $24.00) and the truck started right up.
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