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  #1  
Old 12-27-2012, 04:15 AM
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EXCURSION DOA, Won't Start

First day on forum, first post!



Vehicle: 2004 Ford Excursion 4X2 Limited, 6.0 PSD, 190K miles

Primary Use-mostly as family carrier, hauling kayaks/boat (nothing over 5K), traveling and camping.

Upgrades: 4" exhaust pipes, soft ride shocks (currently disconnected), NO TUNER

My abilities: very proficienct with gas engines, average at best with diesel.

How it started: Approximately a month ago, had diesel smell in cab. Found badly pinched gasket/oring on assembly. Purchased a Fuel Regulator from dealership and replaced with not problems. After replacement, no SMELL-Go to go right? No, truck would not accelerate thru the turbo cycle and was too smooth on the bottom end. NO CEL on dash. Never ran HOT!

Fast forward to 3 weeks ago-Drove to see the Nutcracker ( for 8 y/o duaghter) and on the 45 minute trip back home, the Excursion just stopped in traffic. Crank, but no start. Walked home to get Jeep to tow it home. Got it home and started researching.

The facts:
Oil changed with FORD parts-1200 miles ago
Fuel filters changed with Oil Filters-1200 miles ago
Clean fuel in bowl
Oil in Bowl and would drain when drain plunger was activated.
No smoke when trying to start.
Pull EGR soleniod-moist to touch BUT NOT WET.
Battery Checks- both over 12.1 volts
Pulled ICP sensor- NO START FOR LIMP HOME MODE
Coolant required topping off about every 2 weeks (MORE LATER)

Decided to go into the top of engine, with the intentions of doing an EGR Delete. So-
Prep-Completed a coolant flush with VC-9 through the thermostat opening (removed).
1. Pulled the air filter and all other air intake piping
2. Pulled Degas bottle
3. Pulled alternator-had it tested-BAD. Replaced with NEW one.
4. Pulled oil / diesel bowls
5. Disconnected the turbo and removed
6. Pulled the turbo bracket
7. Pulled the air intake manifol
8. Pulled the Oil Cooler
9. Pulled the HPOP top.

What I found:
1. Oil COOLER completely CLOGGED with NO FLOW on coolant side! REPLACED THE OIL COOLER WITH FORD PARTS.
2. Oil resevior screen busted in one area (screen still attached and there) REPLACED.
3. IPR sensor-screen was not attached to the sensor and wedged into housing area. REMOVED and REPLACED WITH FORD PART.
4. ICP sensor-found oil soaked and REPLACED WITH FORD PART.
5. Turbo was free to operate, no binding, no wiggling / wobbling of bearings. Looked good.
6. HPOP-Freely operates, all orings looked good, BUT REPLACED ANYWAY. Along with the up-piped to turbo. The orings looked worn.
7. EGR Cooler was actually Immaculately Clean considering. Free flow and no leaks between exhaust and coolant. WHAT A SURPRISE, NOT A EGR COOLER PROBLEM.
8. INJECTOR # 7 (Passenger rear) the electrical housing is not fully seated in the cover. Plugs in well, but wiggles. I have not started looking in the valve covers for problems YET!
9. Complete wiring harness visual inspection, one rub (not exposed wiring).

So the re-assembly. With that must replaced I was very confident that it would run and run well. I re-assembled the top of engine in about 3 hours. Replaced Oil and Gas Filters, 15w-40 motorcraft oil and verified coolant.

So after about 15 primes, engine started up and ran like crap!!!! Best way to describe was "BOGGING DOWN". While idling, it died and has not started since. I have been working on the truck 3-6 hours each week night and 8-10 hours on weekend.

After all that was replaced, I am completely lost.
Facts as of now:
New Batteries
New IPR
New ICP
New Oil Cooler, with rebuild kit for cooler
New Up-pipe for Turbo
New Alternator
EGR Cooler Clean
Coolant Flush
New Oil / DSL Filters
New Oil
Cleaned the GROUNDING straps

Data
1. FICM: KOEO-voltage reads 32 while Gplugs are activated, then ramps up to 48VDC. Talked with two FICM repair people, both stated that it should crank with vdc about 46. Did not recommend replacement.
Batteries: both are above 12.9. Can not check alternator output due to NO START.
2. Block heater plugged in for 8 hours-NOT START
3. STARTER-shorted the yellow & blue wire to positive and starter turns over with no problems.

Odd note: The EXC has never thrown a CEL light. To compound the problem, I do not have a CODE READER.

My thoughts:
1. I have a HPOP leak SOMEWHERE!
2. I actually do need to replace the FICM and have most up to date FLASH(es) installed.

I NEED HELP! I actually LOVE the functionality that the EXCURSION brings to my family. But I can not afford for the vehicle to be down past this weekend. Wife is on break, so being down to one vehicle (1994 JEEP) is not killing us. Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. I will PAY CASH for any help (including local help willing to help). I will gladly give out phone or email to anyone with suggestions or thougths.

With that said, I pray everyone has had a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS and I wish everyone a HAPPY NEW YEAR.

SPAZ

Last edited by Spaz; 12-27-2012 at 04:22 AM.
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  #2  
Old 12-27-2012, 04:45 AM
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Have you checked your dummy plugs and stand pipes may have an oil leak there. Just a thought. I believe there is a sticky on how to test. They replaced mine when I lost my HPOP. They were leaking contributing to the no start problem. Mine never threw a CEL light. Didn't have a scan tool to check anything other than my SCT. Hope you get it sorted out I know it's frustrating mine is my only vehicle.
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  #3  
Old 12-27-2012, 05:21 AM
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Thanx, RedneckYankee for the timely reply.
I will have to research "HOW TO" on the stand pipes. I am fairly certain that I do not have Dummy Plugs due to having a 2003 Engine with my ICP & IPR under my turbo, not on the passenger side cover. I should also have the single pipe with a braided hose connecting to the standpipe. Watched a couple of Ytube videos. Ordered the parts through the dealership, pickup at 4PM and will work them when I get off work this afternoon.

Last edited by Spaz; 12-27-2012 at 09:45 AM.
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  #4  
Old 12-31-2012, 11:50 AM
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So, ordered a FICM and waited for the mail to run.
Knew that that it would arrive today, so I took today off to checked everything over and over.
1. Fuel in bowl-CHECK
2. Oil freely flowing thru the bowl-CHECK
3. Battery One-12.9 VDC CHECK
4. Battery Two-12.7 VDC CHECK
5. All Sensors plugged in-CHECK
6. No CEL-CHECK
7. Coolant topped off-CHECK
8. All FUSES Good with FLUKE-CHECK

So the mail ran. Keeping with a POSITIVE ATTITUDE I thought "IT is going to RUN!!!!". Plugged up the FICM. PRIMED the system 10 times. Turned it over-NOTHING!!! SO WHAT NEXT! I am waiting for the dealership to get in the standpipes in!

So let me vent for a second! I read the "How to Post!". I was very detailed and very specific so there would be no need to waste posts on questions like "WHAT ENGINE IS IT?"

SO I AM WAITING FOR SOME HELP! Or do I have to recognize that I made the biggest mistake in purchasing the absolute worst POS ever to roll on four wheels. (even though two independents machanics-CHECKED out the truck before I bought it!). ANYONE????
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  #5  
Old 12-31-2012, 12:18 PM
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How clean did you get the reservoir under the oil cooler? Did you use lint free rags when wiping it out? I'm gonna say that something made it through the system and back to the IPR valve. Does your oil pressure gauge on the dash come up into the normal zone while cranking? Have you actually checked fuel pressure?
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  #6  
Old 01-01-2013, 05:37 PM
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Thank you for your questions!
1. Very clean and used lint free cloth. The screen was torn, but ALL of the part was still attached to the plastics holder. I hard read from another post where the resv. was not throughly cleaned with "lint free" and it caused problems. I also added two quarts of oil to fill the HPOP.
2. I did find alot of small material (hard plastic) when I cleaned both resv. I also considered dropping the oil plan and doing a flush of some sort. Very possible that something got back into the IPR.
3. YES-oil gauge comes up to the middle band after about 4-6 seconds of cranking. I also did the "scrap the two wires for ICP" test with the following results. .80 VDC equals 500 PSI, Correct? Well, I highest i read on digital fluke was .87 VDC during the cranking phase with the new FICM installed. Assumption is that I have adequate HPO to operate the system and there should be no LEAK to find.
4. NO-I have not been able to read fuel pressure due to having to divert attention to the FICM first connector. While removing it yesterday, connector feel apart into two pieces and I have not been able to reconnect or find a new fitting.

Evolving thoughts:
1. Electrical problem-NEED to REPLACE ENTIRE WIRING HARNESS!
2. Get a scanner to be able to read the system. AS of yet, I still have not tripped a CEL light ONCE!!! Something might be wrong with that portion of the system.

Thanks again and IF I am out-the-box on my assumptions or thoughts, please feel free to correct. I truly appreciate a blunt person. I just have to get this truck up and running!!!!




I will also be posting my troubleshooting concerning the electrical connections of the ICP!

Thanks for your post!!!!

Last edited by Spaz; 01-01-2013 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Corrections
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  #7  
Old 01-01-2013, 06:09 PM
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Pulling the oil pan isn't going to do you any good. I know you said you disconnected the ICP but have you removed the IPR and rechecked the screen on the end of it? Could be an electrical issue but won't need an entire harness. There are a few places where the harness is prone to chafing and right where the FICM plugs are and wiring harness by the EBP sensor is another. I still think you have an IPR issue or HPO leak somewhere.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:19 PM
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After going thru this with an 03 and 2 05s at the shop I made a ipr pigtail to control it manually even tho both scan tools allow a test this was easier. What i learned was bad iprs are usually mechanical failures not electrical. Took 2 apart and found screen and plastic holding them open.

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Old 01-02-2013, 03:04 AM
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First, thank you so much for your questions/thoughts.
@dhanna
1. Remove ICP-Yes, I have disconnected and tried to start in the "LIMP" home mode. NO JOY!
2. Pulled the IPR-Yes, after re-installing the top of the motor, I replaced the IPR after removing the old one to find the screen disconnected and lodged in the housing. NEW IPR installed.
Also, as stated in previous post, I "scrapped" the wires to the ICP to check whether or not I am getting 500 psi (.8 VDC). I saw a max of .87 VDC at the top of trying to crank the truck.
** I will pull the IPR valve again this afternoon to check.
3. Wiring harness-Agreed problably do not need the entire harness, but I have so many issues with taped and broken connectors. As stated before, the connector (first large one) on the FICM fell apart this weekend!
@kraker829-how did you make the IPR pigtail? The reason I am asking is that I am not planning to go spend $200 for a scanner. Although hindsight would problably bite me for it seeing that I have spent nearly $2K on truck. I will see what I find this afternoon with IPR.

SO HERE IS A QUESTION-with everything that has been replaced out of necessity, HOW in the HECK was my truck running AT ALL??????? Just asking!

Thanks again.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:53 AM
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I actually have two of them. Made one from obs turbo plug and the other is ipr plug from a burnt truck we parted out. But you could make one pretty easy with some store bought stuff. Or I can send you the short one if you want. Let me know.

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