96 Ford F250, cranks but wont start!!

[06pwrstrokerbullitt]

Well the truck is on the side of the road and it has been having problems off and on for a couple of months but we thought they was fixed until today. Before the truck was throwing some cam shaft position sensor codes and the truck would start and run okay until it warmed up then it would die and not start back. Well at first it went through a cam sensor in a week then we put another on it and it lasted for over a month but today it died and we put on another cam sensor and it started back got a little ways down the road and died again and won't start back now and we have put 3 cam sensors on it so far. The only CEL codes it has thrown are 0340 and 0344. Which is cam sensor intermittent and cam sensor malfunction. Any help on this? I left the truck sitting for a couple of hours and went back and it still won't start but I am afriad I won't make it home even if I get it to start. Any reason it will kill cam sensors or could something else be the cause of it?
Also after searching some before I posted I haven't got to check the Tach to see if it moves. From everyone else that has had crank but no start problems, does their trucks start and run then just die while your going down the road and leave you stranded? No one has mentioned that problem with cam sensors.

[Raising Hell]

Nope but had that similar problem with my truck a while back and it was the HPOP. I would have to hold the key for about 30-45 seconds all the lights on the dash and the TBC fault light would come on and then the truck would fire up. Used to do it all the time until they figured out that problem. Try it out see what it does.

[06pwrstrokerbullitt]

Well so far the tach does move when cranking. The 3 cam sensors I keep swapping I bought at advance so I thought I would try a ford cam sensor to see if that was the problem and still nothing, cranks but no start.

[96F350KID]

Check the connector and see if you can get an ohm meter on it and start checking for open wires. Check fuel PSI, Check oil. All I could say with the info you've given. Post some more and maybe I can help. Just do a check list and make sure everythings in order.

[06pwrstrokerbullitt]

What should ohms be for the cam sensor wires? As long as the ohm meter don't say Overload and gives me a reading I should be good? Can I check fuel PSI with a diagnostic tool or do I need to get a fuel pressure gauge and check on a shrader valve? As long as oil level is good am I ok or would it help to change the oil, it is do an oil change, but I was putting it off since the truck won't run.

[97powerstroker]

bump for ya

[bondsman]

Are you building oil pressure while starting?
Can you hear the injectors clicking while cranking? If you can't, check the hpop oil level.
Is the crankcase oil full? If there isn't enough oil, it will do that.
One other thing could be the IPR valve or IPR orings. Had a 95 that had a bad oring on the IPR valve and would run great when it was cold but once it warmed up it would die.
Had a 94.5 that would not build oil pressure, so it could not fill up the HPOP and fire the injectors. I could fill the hpop and it would start clicking until the oil ran out. Replaced the LPOP (behind dampner on crank - easy job) and she has been running great ever since.

[06pwrstrokerbullitt]

Well so the truck is still having problems but now with the 4th CPS sensor but this one is a Ford part. Now the truck will sit and idle all day but when you give it any throttle it dies. Now it is throwing a new code, a P1211 ICP code. It's giving me a P0340 CPS code also. Is my problem the ICP sensor or the IPR valve? I am tired of throwing parts at it trying to fix it and also I am running out of money. It has new oil in it and the oil level and fuel filter are new.

[bondsman]

Try this: Unplug the ICP sensor and see if you can get any throttle response? If that works, then replace the ICP sensor, it is bad.
Next, look at the IPR, there is a large nut that holds the coil tight. Make sure it is snug. It is a cheap tin nut so there isn't any torque value there.. Personally, I would pull the IPR valve and look at the o-rings. They may be holding up enough until you try and put some pressure to it and the oil just leaks by.... I don't know how to tell if the actual valve is bad, but the o-rings are easy to tell there is one split one so expect tosee that one. The IPR kit is inexpensive, the ipr valve is expensive.

[06pwrstrokerbullitt]

Well I unplugged the ICP and it ran rough when I revved it up but it did rev up. So it should be the ICP after I replace it and hopefully I won't have any more problems?