Originally Posted by toddy
Going to start working on my truck and getting it ready to go across the country. Im making an 1800 mile trip from TN to AZ in 2 days. I will be pulling a loaded 6x12 tandem enclosed trailed loaded with all my crap.
Deep breath here we go!!
Lately I have been having some very high Trans temps for driving unloaded. When I first bought the truck I couldn't get it over 140. Now Im hitting 190 in about 17 miles and holding that steady most of the time but sometimes it will get up to 220-240. Im nervous about pullin this trailer with it doing this. So Im going to flush the trans and take the trans cooler out and clean it up real good. I would put a 6.0 trans cooler in it but I don't have the 150 bucks to spare right now. I have had been told differant things about which trans fluid I need to run. So what do I need to put in it?
You have a problem!!! Don't even think of making this trip until you get it fixed!! I'm not joking!! If you are getting to 190 in 17 min my guess is your bypass line is open, meaning the valve is bad. I just diagnosed the same problem on another members truck. The bypass is a short line that runs between the output line and the input line on the passenger side of the trans. The valve works on backpressure, so if there is a blockage in the coolers it will open the valve and the fluid bypasses the cooler and goes directly back into the trans. Your trans holds 4 1/2 + gal of ATF there is no way to heat that much fluid that fast unless the bypass is open. They are known to go bad. Dieselsite.com sells a replacement and a kit to elimiate it, but I don't suggest that!! To make sure this is the problem get the trans up to normal temp and simply grab the bypass line, if it is hot the valve is open and needs to be replaced. As far as trans fluid the only fluid that should go into a 4R100 is Mercon/Dextron III, your manual will validate this. I know Ferd is now saying Mercon V is okay, this is because the 4R100 are mainly out of warranty and will be by the time damage is done to the seals from using the wrong fluid. Some claim the Mercon V was reformulated but this isn't true and has never been proven. The bad news is Mercon/Dextron III stopped being made in June of 2007, when the supply is gone, it's gone. I bought 4 cases from Napa.
Second, I had alot of oil saturating my IC Boots at the IC so I pulled those off and cleaned those really well. Can I pull the IC and flush it out with something to get rid of any excess oil?
I am going to do the CCV mod, don't know why I have waited so long to do this, at the same time.
The CCV mod should be done to all PSD's to eliminate this problem. Clean them out real good with a cleaner/degreaser like simple green. I would soak them in it as it can be difficult to get them to reseal after they have been removed. When you're ready to do the CCV mod contact me for more info on how to do it right
Also when I pulled my IC tubes out to clean the boots the one on the passenger side has some deep rub marks in it from rubbing on the wire loom over the past 10 years. I am thinking about rapping them in Header wrap to help stop this from continuing. As far as I can see there are no holes.
It would be better to replace them, even the slightest hole can cause serious boost losses
I am going to change the the diff fluids as well so what is a good weight to go with?
All depends on the diffs you have. Look in the owners manual. If you have LS you will need to add the modifier. Don't add the 8 oz that Ford requires, add three-four and then drive in some tight figure eights, if you have any chatter add one oz at a time until the chatter is gone. This is why Ferds LS never worked right, I used only 4 oz of the modifier and my LS works awesome!!
I am going to install hawk brake pads as well.
Hawks LTS are good pads, don't use the extreme duty pads though. Friction Performance pads from AZ are also good pads. If it has been more than 2 years since your last brake fluid flush you need to do this as well. Three quarts should flush the entire system.
I am considering flushing the coolant system and install a coolant filter in the process. I have everything I need for this except for a filter that will work for a filter and a bracket to mount it. Anybody have a write up on this?
Napa sells the WIX #4070 Coolant filter for under $5, I would mount the filter mount down behind the drivers front tire, there is a hole there that it will fit perfect in and is well protected. You need to use two valves for when you change the filter, I used the gas ball valves and I don't loose a drop. I am working on putting together some coolant filter kits so if you have any ? just ask. For coolant use the Fleetrite ELC coolant, no need to check SCA's for three years or 300K, no other coolant would go in my truck.
Of course I will be changing the oil, rotating and balancing the tires and making sure the alignment is within spec.
Do I seem like I have everything covered or am I missing something? Thanks GUys.
[color="red"]Lube Job on the front end, wiper blades, check all hoses and belt and have a spare!! You have some work to do before you are ready for this trip. PM me with any ?
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