1992 F350- My feed truck, a diamond in the rough.. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

7.3L IDI (Non-Powerstroke) Diesels Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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1992 F350- My feed truck, a diamond in the rough..

Just finished feeding cattle and I figured I'd snap a pic and post it for everyone to see since this truck rarely sees much public attention. This is our 1992 F350 regular cab 4x4 with the 7.3L IDI non-turbo diesel and 5-speed manual. This truck is the 'Custom' model with no frills. No power windows or locks, no cruise, no tilt. Just a bench seat (with red interior, no less), AM/FM radio that automatically adjusts volume as it feels necessary. It's got a DewEze arm bed on it and a Bar 6 cake feeder.

Why is this a diamond in the rough? Because while feeding today it rolled 55k miles!

Always dependable and tough as nails. Little cold blooded in the winter time, but the block heater always keeps it in service. Aside from regular maintenance, we've put very little money into this truck to keep it rolling. The most we've spent was about $900 last year getting it tuned up/serviced and replacing the master cylinder and multi-function switch on the column. Built Ford Tough!


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post #2 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 03:48 PM
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Old trucks are worth their weight in gold...IMO Looks like yours has no rust?

2005 F350 4x4 CC LB Lariat
Engine: Puking ModIntake, Innovative SCT Tuned, Straight Pipe, Zoodad, DIY CCV.
Exterior: 8inch Rize 4Link, traction bars, Deaver Leafs, Raceline Rims, 37inch Toyos M/Ts, Leer Cap, Bushwacker Pocket Flares, Tints, Lights and little stuff
Interior: Isspro Gauges, Leds bulbs , Livewire, Overhead DVD, Aftermarket alarm/remote start
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Old trucks are worth their weight in gold...IMO Looks like yours has no rust?
Zero rust. Oklahoma truck it's entire life!


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post #4 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 03:54 PM
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Nice ride. Old 7.3's never say die!!!!!

2004 F-250, ZF-6, 03 turbo 4" mbrp exh. PHP reprogrammed FICM, sct X3, egr delete, auto meter ultra lite boost & pyro, arp head studs, firestone destination m/t's. ccv mod, mag hytec diff covers, 35% tint, dieselsite coolant filter, cat elc, B&W gooseneck hitch.
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 03:56 PM
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When I used to change oil for a living, we had our share of those come in. Only thing I hated about them, was that the oil was changed a year ago (since it wasn't driven enough) and that filter was TIGHT.
Never saw any old Dodges or Chevys doing like those Fords would.



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4R100, 2wd
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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When I used to change oil for a living, we had our share of those come in. Only thing I hated about them, was that the oil was changed a year ago (since it wasn't driven enough) and that filter was TIGHT.
Never saw any old Dodges or Chevys doing like those Fords would.
You know I never have trouble with the oil filter, but the fuel filter is another story. Ever since I can remember, we can change that filter and get done then try and start it and it wont run because it's got air in the system now. Every single time I've gotta crack an injector on it then fire it up and let it purge then tighten it back up. Maybe I've been doing it wrong for year? Lol


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post #7 of 8 Old 09-22-2011, 04:59 PM
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It's IDI and a mech fuel pump so it's a pain. Fill the new filter with diesel (we used ATF to clean and prime), spin it on, then try it. Once it starts then keep it idled up just to keep it from dying. Much easier. If that doesn't work, you may also have to open the bleed valve on top in addition to priming it. At least I think those have a bleed valve.



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post #8 of 8 Old 09-23-2011, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
It's IDI and a mech fuel pump so it's a pain. Fill the new filter with diesel (we used ATF to clean and prime), spin it on, then try it. Once it starts then keep it idled up just to keep it from dying. Much easier. If that doesn't work, you may also have to open the bleed valve on top in addition to priming it. At least I think those have a bleed valve.
I've always done that. Filled the new filter with diesel then installed it. I don't recall a bleed valve though... It'll fire up and run rough and shake and if you pump it like a carburetor you can kind of keep it running.... But it usually dies. Then it won't fire at all until you crack an injector open and crank on it til it does fire off and purges the air out. Oh well, I'm not complaining! Can't work on the new ones like that anymore!


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