|
|
|
- HOME
- FORUMS
- GARAGE
- ARTICLES
- CHAT
- CLASSIFIEDS
- VIDEOS
- TECH
- STORE
- SPONSORS - - REGISTER - CALENDAR - SITE HELP - ARCADE - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - GET A QUOTE |
|
Welcome to the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Ford Diesel Community on the internet! You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
|
|||||||
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
2001 f350 7.3L power stroke Died and won't start.
I was driving the truck on a 50 degree rainy day about a week ago when it just QUIT. It was like someone turned the key off. I had to fight the steering and the brakes to get the truck safely off the road. That being said.... A friend of mine told me to replace the CPS, so I did and it didn't work so I took the part back and exchanged it for another CPS and it too did not work. The next thing I tried was to load test the batteries. They were both 800 to 850 CCA. I OHM tested every fuse under the hood and under the dash. I emptied the fuel filter canister and it refills. I topped off the HP oil reservoir but it wasn't really even low. The truck will start if you spray a little ether into the breather but will only run until it burns off the ether.
There is one thing that is happening that I have not seen mentioned in any other thread. When I turn the key to heat the plugs an electric vacuum pump on the passenger side fender area runs for about a full minute before shutting down. Please Help! |
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
|
|||
|
|||
|
|||
|
|||
|
|||
|
|||
|
|||
|
use wd40 instead of ether. you need to open filter box and shoot wd40 ditrectly in intake tube as it is not as vaporous as ether but not as destructive either. my understanding that using ether screws up the end of the glow plugs making them more prone to breaking off in the head when trying to remove/replace them. as for your no start condition- does the tach bounce when you are cranking engine? also does your truck have 4x4 shift knob on the dash? if so the hub seal mentioned earlier is likely correct and really should not have any bearing on the no start condition that i can think of.
|
|
|||
|
|||
|
Disconnecting the ICP did nothing.
The oil level is fine. In fact after rebuilding the IPR I had to refill the resevoir. There are no leaks. A friend of mine has a gauge that he is bringing over tonight to check the high side and low side oil pressure tonight. Some one asked me about voltage to the coil. Where is the coil and what voltage should I have? How hard is it to take the valve cover off to check the wiring harness under it? I've been told that that connection can go bad or come loose. Is it under both sides? |
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|