Mileage Mileage Mileage

[richc22a]

A buddy took his (2007 dodge) diesel in and had a tune installed, emissions delete and went from 15.5 to 22+ mpg. I am over 70,000 miles, tranny warranty in the rear view mirror, engine warrranty end in sight. I am considering a def/emissions/egr scrap and am interested in mpg gains when these items are dropped. I know increased power, engine longevity is available, Anybody have mpg results? From regular driving????

[Dr.Evil]

Originally Posted by richc22a

A buddy took his (2007 dodge) diesel in and had a tune installed, emissions delete and went from 15.5 to 22+ mpg. I am over 70,000 miles, tranny warranty in the rear view mirror, engine warrranty end in sight. I am considering a def/emissions/egr scrap and am interested in mpg gains when these items are dropped. I know increased power, engine longevity is available, Anybody have mpg results? From regular driving????

I've only got about 130 miles with a tune/dpf delete/intake, but so far just driving around town I am seeing 2-3MPG increase. I'm expecting around 20 on the highway. I know its way too early to tell, and that's based on the on board calculator, but its a promising start.

[Painted Horse]

Unlike the older EGR engines, We are not seeing as big a jump in ecconomy as your friend is seeing.

At 2-3 mpg improvement, you will save around $25 in fuel every 1000 miles of driving at $4.00 per gallon. The DPF Delete and tuner cost, What? $1200-$1500 so it will take you about 60,000 hiway miles driven to save enough in fuel cost to pay for the conversion. Around town and towing mileage improvements won't be as high and will take longer to achieve pay off. There is also some cost savings for DEF that I haven't considered. So add another $4 every 1000 miles or $29 per 1,000 miles.

Rich, I know for you, that you drive that much in year, So you are talking a 1 year payback. But most of us won't see enough mileage improvement to justify the cost for several years.

So the man reason for doing this for most folks is the percieved performance improvement. The plain DPF delete is only 30 hp increase. For me thats not enough reason. If you step up to the higher tunes, yes there is more horsepower, but then you've really traded off the mileage improvement for the extra hp.

For me, I'd have to return it to factory every year for my annual emmission testing. So it's a big no for me. If your DPF is plugged and needing to be replaced and you live in a non-emission state, Then I'd replace the DPF with a delete.

["Stroker 8"]

Originally Posted by Painted Horse

Unlike the older EGR engines, We are not seeing as big a jump in ecconomy as your friend is seeing.

At 2-3 mpg improvement, you will save around $25 in fuel every 1000 miles of driving at $4.00 per gallon. The DPF Delete and tuner cost, What? $1200-$1500 so it will take you about 60,000 hiway miles driven to save enough in fuel cost to pay for the conversion. Around town and towing mileage improvements won't be as high and will take longer to achieve pay off. There is also some cost savings for DEF that I haven't considered. So add another $4 every 1000 miles or $29 per 1,000 miles.

Rich, I know for you, that you drive that much in year, So you are talking a 1 year payback. But most of us won't see enough mileage improvement to justify the cost for several years.

So the man reason for doing this for most folks is the percieved performance improvement. The plain DPF delete is only 30 hp increase. For me thats not enough reason. If you step up to the higher tunes, yes there is more horsepower, but then you've really traded off the mileage improvement for the extra hp.

For me, I'd have to return it to factory every year for my annual emmission testing. So it's a big no for me. If your DPF is plugged and needing to be replaced and you live in a non-emission state, Then I'd replace the DPF with a delete.

I'm with you this. Not to mention, I'm no where near my warranty end. So she is stock for now.

[LFD132]

Originally Posted by Dr.Evil

I've only got about 130 miles with a tune/dpf delete/intake, but so far just driving around town I am seeing 2-3MPG increase. I'm expecting around 20 on the highway. I know its way too early to tell, and that's based on the on board calculator, but its a promising start.

Just curious...how long did it take for you to do your EGR delete? I had a 6.4 that was tuned, but that is a pretty fast back to stock set up. EGR would not be fun to put back on.

[Dr.Evil]

Originally Posted by LFD132

Just curious...how long did it take for you to do your EGR delete? I had a 6.4 that was tuned, but that is a pretty fast back to stock set up. EGR would not be fun to put back on.

Do you mean DPF? I still have most of the EGR stuff in place, minus the long exhaust pipe that I removed to install an EGT probe for the Mini-Maxx. I was going to rip it all out, but with the DPF-delete tune running, its bypassed anyway. It needs to pass emissions so I saved myself some work having to reinstall it every year by just leaving it on. It is a simple job based on what I saw in the manual. Only pain is you have to drain the coolant, which is never fun.

The DPF is pretty straight forward. There is a bunch of connectors / sensors that need to be removed. Easier to unbolt the mounts from the frame rather than try to slip the hangers through the rubber pieces on the mounts. I had a couple helpers and we got it out in about an hour. Will be a lot easier next time now that we know where everything is and how the connectors work. Its just big and heavy, awkward to try to move around by yourself, so grab a friend or 2 if your going to tackle it. A floor jack would probably work too if your flying solo. Well worth the effort, really woke the truck up and now it sounds more like a Turbo Diesel!

[LFD132]

Originally Posted by Dr.Evil

Do you mean DPF? I still have most of the EGR stuff in place, minus the long exhaust pipe that I removed to install an EGT probe for the Mini-Maxx. I was going to rip it all out, but with the DPF-delete tune running, its bypassed anyway. It needs to pass emissions so I saved myself some work having to reinstall it every year by just leaving it on. It is a simple job based on what I saw in the manual. Only pain is you have to drain the coolant, which is never fun.

The DPF is pretty straight forward. There is a bunch of connectors / sensors that need to be removed. Easier to unbolt the mounts from the frame rather than try to slip the hangers through the rubber pieces on the mounts. I had a couple helpers and we got it out in about an hour. Will be a lot easier next time now that we know where everything is and how the connectors work. Its just big and heavy, awkward to try to move around by yourself, so grab a friend or 2 if your going to tackle it. A floor jack would probably work too if your flying solo. Well worth the effort, really woke the truck up and now it sounds more like a Turbo Diesel!

So did you drill a hole to tap into for you EGT probe, or did you go the route of draining the coolant and use the blocker plates?

[Senderofan]

Originally Posted by LFD132

So did you drill a hole to tap into for you EGT probe, or did you go the route of draining the coolant and use the blocker plates?

The H&S EGR delete kit with the EGT bung....you don't necessarily have to remove the cooler.....so no blocking off of the coolant ports ( which are found underneath the EGR cooler....which there are two passages that get covered by one elongated plate) or draining the coolant. Just need to remove the exhaust routing pipes...into and out of the EGR cooler. The plate on the exhaust manifold has the bung....just screw one of the probes from the DPF unit and connect to the harness that had originally been used for EGR temps.

Removing the cooler is a bit of a PITA.......just removing the EGR exhaust gas pipes and putting the blocking plates on would be very easy and wouldn't take much time at all.

Wayne

P.S.

As always....this is what I've read

[LFD132]

Originally Posted by Senderofan

The H&S EGR delete kit with the EGT bung....you don't necessarily have to remove the cooler.....so no blocking off of the coolant ports ( which are found underneath the EGR cooler....which there are two passages that get covered by one elongated plate) or draining the coolant. Just need to remove the exhaust routing pipes...into and out of the EGR cooler. The plate on the exhaust manifold has the bung....just screw one of the probes from the DPF unit and connect to the harness that had originally been used for EGR temps.

Removing the cooler is a bit of a PITA.......just removing the EGR exhaust gas pipes and putting the blocking plates on would be very easy and wouldn't take much time at all.

Wayne

P.S.

As always....this is what I've read

I was just going by the directions H&S have on their website for doing the EGR delete to install the pyro.

[Senderofan]

Steve:

There's a guy on here or Power Stroke Nation that just removed the pipes and left the cooler in place. You can still use the EGT bung.....and have the option to go back to stock form quickly and easily. The draining the coolant deal is done to be able to delete the EGR coolant lines....so the cooler can be removed. BTW...the lower line is a real treat....plenty of time laying on your back...thinking of a lot of interesting descriptive terms to use for that situation .

Might consider using the two blocker plates after removing the exhaust gas pipes and leave the cooler in place....would save a chunk of time and some headaches. JMHO.

Good Luck,

Wayne

P.S.

My chubby hands are finally healing...it's been a couple of weeks......I'm just sayin'...you might want to consider the path of least resistance.