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CCV Delete-Check Engine Light

56K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  Oneops 
#1 ·
So I decided to tackle the CCV delete over the long weekend and got it all fixed up no problem. I actually just headed to Lowes and picked up a 1-1/8" bar stool foot for a intake cap and a 1" ID vinyl hose for the atmosphere vent from the separator box down to the frame rail. Worked really well since the factory hose was a push-on barb type right from the separator box!

My issue tho is the CEL that showed up afterwards. After it was all buttoned up, I started the truck, no light. Shutdown and finished cleaning up the shop then when I started it again to back out, the CEL comes on. I read the codes: P04E3 which sounds like "Crankcase Ventilation Hose Connection Sensor Circuit High" from quick googling, and P160A. Plugged the "sensor" (or whatever that little black box is) back in and tuck it in the engine bay, cleared the codes and drove home.

After two more power cycles, CEL comes back on. Read the codes again and this time its P04DB and P160A. The P04DB sounds like "CCV Disconnected" but I really couldn't find it related to Ford when I googled it, seems to be mostly a Cummins code. Technically the hose is disconnected but the sensor is not.

Any ideas on what the sensor is there to measure or how it measures it? Any way I can fool it or get rid of it altogether? I don't seem to have loss in power or other consequences but I have tried clearing the P04DB and it just keeps coming back even with the sensor plugged in, just tucked in the engine bay. Thanks guys
 
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#2 ·
What brand CCV kit do you have? I've had an H&S CCV kit on my truck for the past 1000 miles and no CEL. As of now, I have no custom tunes or tuner on my truck. But the make of the CCV shouldn't matter. Is your crankcase being vented properly? Do you feel air coming from the end of the CCV hose when your truck is idling? If you don't feel air coming out, your hose if probably kinked somewhere. I don't know for sure, but you may throw a code if your crankcase pressure is too high.
 
#3 ·
It isn't a CCV kit I bought from a mfg. I couldn't justify the $250+ to do it so I just got some rubber hose for the box vent (didn't actually take the oil separator box off like the kits do) and a rubber cap for the intake port. I agree with you though, the brand shouldn't matter.

The vent is functioning too, I can feel and see vapor coming from the vent so it shouldn't be over pressured.
 
#4 ·
I did the same thing over the weekend and bought the peaces at Lowes and an auto parts store. I did the same thing you did and the CEL came on the 2nd time I started the truck. I cleared it and put the hose back on that came off the CCV and hooked my hose up to that one. I've been driving like that since Saturday and the light hasn't come back on yet. I'm not sure how the sensor works on the end of the hose, but it does do something.
 
#5 ·
So at least I'm not the only one here then...
 
#6 ·
Outbacker, what did you do with the plug that was on the end of the hose you took off? Just left it open and tucked it away somewhere?
 
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#7 ·
Unplugged it and tied it away. Strange why you and some others get a CEL, and others like myself don't. My truck is 2012 and it last received an update flash from Ford in late 2012. My only guess is that newer trucks or trucks that have received a Ford flash in the last year or two have a code to trigger the CEL if the CCV plug is disconnected. :dunno:
 
#8 ·
I think I may have found d the answer in a related thread. It seems to only affect the later model year trucks tho, like 2014 and up (mines the oldest I've heard of to do it). Ronnied33 what year is your truck?

It seems the sensor on the end of the vent hose is a hall effect sensor that can detect its proximity to metal, is the cast intake. So even leaving it plugged in does nothing unless it's near a cast iron piece. I will have to test with a chunk of scrap to confirm this, but its looking awful good at this point. Will update soon
 
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#9 ·
#11 ·
Sure do! I had originally bought a bar stool rubber foot (like so: Shop Waxman 4-Pack 1.125-in Black Rubber Tips at Lowes.com) and hose clamp to put over the intake bung, which worked great I might add. This is where the problem comes in tho.

The sensor on the hose is a hall effect sensor. Did some research on it and figured out that it is detecting its proximity to the intake casting. When its connected, that sensor is directly over the bung so it therefore knows the system is connected.

Solution: find a chunk of scrap casting and zip tie to the sensor! Now that would be fine but I thought it would be hoakie with the stock tube just laying among everything under the hood plugged in with a piece of casting stuffed in it.... Did some shopping at Lowes and found a 1" poly plug (link: Shop Genova 1-in Dia Insert Plug at Lowes.com) that fits in the end of the hose that comes off of the separator box and hose clamped it in. Put the other end back on the intake where it came off of, sensor reads the casting and everything is still plugged up tight. This also makes the mod easier since you don't have to snake your arm clear back to the intake to get that end off anymore, just plug it up on the box-end.

Let me know if this makes sense...did it saturday afternoon and been driving with it since, no CEL.
 
#13 ·
While you're there, get about 4-5 ft of 1" ID rubber hose and stainless hose clamps too. That should be all you need!

I'll try and get some pictures this week here and update.
 
#14 ·
I know this is a little late, but I finally got some pictures of my final setup which does not throw a CEL.

Leave the CCV tube connected at the intake elbow (it's the hardest part of the delete anyway so you're welcome for saving you some time and not breaking your arm to get to it), go to your hardware store at find a 1" poly barbed plug, a couple hose clamps, and some 1" ID rubber heater hose or clear vinyl tubing. That's all you need!

Pull the CCV tube from the separator box, plug it, and connect your heater hose to where you pulled the tube from. Route to the frame rail in front of spring (shortest distance) or to where ever you'd like! Pictures for reference:
 

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#15 ·
I did my delete the other day and was getting the same codes. I bought a kit online that has a rubber piece to block the factory intake nipple. Since I had the ccv box out I took a heat gun and heated up the sensor side of the hose to get the sensor off. Once off I put the rubber piece on the end of the sensor and plugged everything back in. So far so good, I will update if things change but I'm pretty sure that took care of the problem.
 

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#16 ·
Genius!! Great work, I'll have to fix mine up now!
 
#20 ·
I have been running the SPE CCV delete and the little cheese grater internal catch can thing for 2 years now (?). No issues what so ever with it and it's been doing a good job as far as I can tell. I have it on a 2016 F250, what year is yours @Oneops ?
 
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#22 ·
Only thing I would have done different is I might not have got the cheese grater and saved that money since I'm not to concerned with oil drips from the tube. I don't regret it but also not sure it was necessary in my application.
 
#24 ·
With the catch can deal I have zero oil drips. I was just under there this past weekend changing the oil and breaking fuel filter housings and noticed the end of the hose has vapor residue, as it should, around the end but there weren't any drips under the truck in the shed.
 
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