Reports from the field show good results with the AirDog 4g if you want to replace the OEM frame pump. I have the DieselSite setup with OEM pump in place. Been monitoring for water/debris in the fuel, no problems here.
I got it earlier this year and do need to change the filters. Considering there is very little contamination when I drain the filters I may think about going 20-30k on the DieselSite filters. This reasoning is due to the OEM pump setup still being installed. If I were to swap in the AirDog I'd definitely go 20-30k miles.
My plan for now is change the OEM on schedule, and the Dieselsite 10k. Consider the main reason to change filters isn't necessarily mileage but the quality of fuel you are using. Since the DieselSite bowls are clear-ish you can see the water/debris that is collecting from the tank. I have been surprised to read people in a panic when they drain the OEM bowl they find little or no water. They start to thing it's not working to remove water.
I installed the Dieselsite on my 2015 with 500 miles on it. Currently have 24k+ and no issues at all. I change my fuel filters stock and Dieselsite every other oil change. Since we tow heavy about 8000 miles a year I do the oil filter, oil, air filter and all fuel filters every May before we get going. Then oil again after about 6500 miles. Might be excessive on the fuel and air filters but I would rather do them every year before all the towing.
I have currently been running the filters in my DieselSite system for 20,000 miles. I plan on changing them here in the next few weeks before the cold weather sets in.
I as well have 20k on my (2 oem changes) Dieselsite filters no sign of any contamination I've drained & inspected look like new I also will Change soon
You guys are scaring the crap out of a new 6.7 owner with only 800 miles on his truck. Is an aftermarket fuel pre-filter the only option for keeping moisture out of the fuel system? Do I need to drain the primary fuel/water separator on a weekly basis?
Im at 105k on mine no fuel problems yet but there are some key things to do.
1. Drain that Water separator once a month. Immediately if you think you got some iffy fuel.
2. Use high volume diesel stops.
3. If a pump is going super slow, leave that station and go to another.
4. Keep the fuel filters changed on a regular basis. At a minimum every other oil change.
5. Keep your fuel receipts in case of bad fuel.
6. You can use a MR Funnel high flow filter while you fill up ( I do ). Not the best option but its cheap and effective. I have found about a teaspoon of water and a bunch of trash in that thing over the years.
7. If you want more piece of mind buy one of the after market inline filters.
8. Use a fuel additive that A. adds lubricity and B. has De-mulsifiers in it.
9. NEVER use a emulsifying product. Those were ok in the older diesel but the newer Common rail cant take the water.
Enjoy your truck and don't worry to much.
Only other advice is if you add in an auxiliary tank in the bed, make sure you use a good water stopping filter in between it and your fuel tank.
A lot of water contamination issues have been linked to metal Aux tanks and condensation dilution.
I think there is a paranoid feeling going about with some people with concerns water in the fuel. Remember, the forums are isolated cases of problems, not the norm for problems. You have trucks from 2011 to present using the 6.7L engine and NOT having any problems.
I am probably one of the most lax person on the water separator and draining it. The key to keeping water out of your fuel is to buy diesel at a high volume business and not at a mom and pop facility. keep your fuel receipts in case you do have a problem you can trace it back to the location you received the bad fuel. Also, do not remove both fuel filter and DEF blue cap at same time. Only put diesel into your vehicle while sitting at the pump. Only fill the DEF when you are NOT at a fuel pump. Also, I suggest buying the locking green fuel cap. This might not stop water in the fuel from a facility but will help you to realize what you are doing when fueling. Locking fuel cap is cheap insurance for less than $15 shipped to you.
Do you need the external water filter/separator? I can not say yes or no. I did find the Dieselsite Filter on eBay from a guy selling his truck. I was able to buy it at approx half price. I have not changed the filters in it in like 20,000 miles. So far, no problems with water in either filter.
Just remember the key to avoiding, might not 100% prevent it, but will be 95% or greater chance of avoiding water in fuel, is to buy fuel at a reputable facility that sells in volume. DO not open both fuel filler and DEF at same time. This will help you avoid a mistake.
Others may have more suggestions for you. My advice is to drive the truck and enjoy it, do not worry about it.
Thanks for all of the advice guys. The fuel system on the 6.7 seems to be a whole different beast than what was on the 6.0. I already practice several of the things you note, so that means I'm on the right track. I don't have an in-bed aux tank but I will be installing a Titan midship replacement tank. I put one on my 6.0 and had no issues, so hoping for the same on the 6.7.
In terms of fuel additives, is the Ford one okay for the 6.7? You would think so since made by Ford. With my 6.0 I used Diesel Kleen white bottle, Red Line, or the Ford additive.
I plan to use only OEM filters. I also plan to create a simple log sheet to document the draining of the seperator.
I use Stanadyne that is a demulisifer. I like the idea it helps coalesces the water so the filters can stop it. I will not use the PS DieselKleen as they try to make the water an emulsion to pass the filters and so the engine can burn the water with the fuel.
Many run an additive to help boost the cetane (same as octane rating on gasoline) and lubricity of the pump. PM-22 is Ford's answer and many use it as it is reasonable to purchase and use.
I have the Titan tank and love it. Make sure when you replace your stock tank to heed the installation instructions on installing the tank sending unit. Make sure you torque and then retorque after a few minutes and prior to installation. This seems to be where some have problems and maybe a leak. You can use FORScan to reset the tank size instead of getting the dealer to do it and maybe charge a fee.
Larry. I just put a 65 gallon titan tank on my 2016 f350 cc/lb. I'm not familiar with forscan. Would you mind sharing what I need and need to do in order to use forscan to recalibrate my DTE function...on my truck? Thanks so much Larry in advance.
Ok I have to agree these are isolated instances, I have 145K miles approximately on my truck. I have never heard a problem with this happening until my failure last week, As for draining the water it is a great idea, how often did I drain not much if at all as i was pushing about 75 gallons a week from a high volume facility. Now with that being said and my studying and deeper knowledge of this common rail system there is a single flaw in the system that will have the code for low fuel pressure that if a dealership sees this they are instructed to stop and call it contamination and that is the pressure sensor on the left rail aft port. So if this sensor fails expect a huge tab from the dealer to fix. At that point make an insurance claim on the comprehensive portion of your policy.
You also have to remember that if the HPFP does fail and pushes metal to have both the lift pump and fuel cooler replaced not flushed
The more you look and the longer you look you will be come concerned with any aspect of a machine.
I am not sure if Diesel site has any licensed vendors/installers. I my neck of the woods there was no vendors. I would recommend that you give them a call and ask.
I personally performed the installation myself and with drinking a couple cups of coffee and having that much needed day off beer it took all of one hour for the installation. It was not difficult in any manner. As with any task that you accomplish for the first time you read the instructions multiple time look at all components and if available watch the videos for instruction.
I am confident that any repair facility that works on diesel truck would be able to handle this job. The dealership itself will not install any aftermarket components.
Diesel site does have a video for the installation - The longest part of the task was bleeding the system
Bleeding the system is to remove the air from the fuel line - The instruction video does explain the procedure but in a nut shell you will turn the key with out starting the engine about 10 times for about 30 seconds each time - there are other youtube videos that have a better explanation
During my web search regarding the Dieselsite separator, I watched two videos (one slightly older it seems). In the older video they used what looked like stainless braided fuel lines, and the newer video shows "rubber" type lines.
What did yours come with, are the braided still available, and if not, why the switch?
And/or, is there a benefit to either type?
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