Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

2011 F250 6.7 Replaced Cooler Twice, Oil Temp Still High

24K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  Rodgerakadustin 
#1 ·
Hi everyone!

I use this site all the time but don't often post. I'm searching for some answers to our problem child... a 2011 F250 XL that we use in our remodeling business and for trips on weekends.

Sorry in advance for the long story!

We purchased the truck used last year. It's a fairly bare-bones crew cab previously owned by an oil company. It was used in Pennsylvania its entire life and had excellent maintenance records with it. The truck has 133k miles, but over 7,500 hours. It spent a lot of time idling on the sites, I guess. I didn't check the hour meter before I'd bought the truck... hindsight is 20:20. :frown2: [smacks forehead]

Anyway... here's the problem. On one of our first trips pulling a 10k camper at 65mph, the engine seemed to start cutting back. Ambient temp was around 85* with A/C running full blast. We used a cheap O'Reilly Bosch CEL scanner and determined the oil temp was 255*. (I have the basic message center, so couldn't track oil temp via the dash.) There were no CELs or warning lights of any kind.

We slowed down a bit and once the oil dropped below around 250* the power came back. I think it was defueling on me. Coolant temp was 192* and never exceeded 194* at any point in the trip. Never heard the fan kick in either.

The whole trip went this way. I made myself pull over and idle awhile each time it exceeded 240*, so we didn't blow anything. At the time, I did not have a tuner or gauges in the truck.

Given my prodigious experience with 6.0s (due to our other work truck. :grin: ), I immediately assumed a plugged cooler and was also told by a dealership mechanic that that would solve the problem. We replaced the oil cooler and coolant once we got back from the trip.

We had planned a DPF delete, pyro, and tuner, so we did that as well. We replaced the oil temp sensor too, just for good measure.

However, the temps still crept north of 240* easily, whenever we pulled. And it didn't take much weight either. I was told by my cousin (a diesel tech professor at a community college) that the new cooler may be plugged from old debris in the system, so flush and replace again...

So... we just got it back from the dealership with a flush, new coolant, and new cooler. But still, even at ambient temps in the 20s, we get oil temps 240+ without working the truck too hard. And that's right after a fresh flush and fill! :frown2:

The Symptoms
The oil temp and coolant temp read the same when it's started cold after sitting overnight. Once started and driving, the temps rise slowly together, with the oil staying a couple degrees ahead of the coolant. Once the coolant reaches full temperature, the oil keeps on rising till we either back off or the motor defuels. This takes around a half hour of steady driving. (FYI: We pull trailers strictly on the "stock" tuner setting, and NEVER use the higher ones when we have a load.)

The Truck
- 2011 F250 6.7L
- Built 12/10 (I think)
-133K miles
-7.5k hours (spent WAY too much time idling while out on refinery/drilling sites, apparently)
-10W-30 Motorcraft Oil
-Ford Orange coolant
-Replaced EGR Cooler Core (plugged due to the excessive idle time)

The Extras
H&S MiniMaxx Tuner, Pyro, DPF Delete, EGR cooler & ducting is intact but disabled

I heard on a forum somewhere that these things have a "restrictor" in the upper oil pan that can dislodge and block oil flow to the cooler, but no mechanic I talked to has ever heard of that. I've also heard about faulty water pumps or front covers, but the engine itself seems to stay very cool. Any thoughts are appreciated!

HELP! :smile2:
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
Your engine it could be loaded with oil sludge. This may prevent oil from even getting to the cooler. If I were you I would change oil again using a high quality full synthetic diesel oil. Also add a 16oz. bottle of Archoil AR9100 friction modifier. So 12.5 quarts of full synthetic oil and a 16 oz. bottle of AR9100, and new oil filter of course. The two together will eventually break down oil sludge. Plus AR9100 will bring down heat caused by friction. If you do this hopefully you'll see the oil temps gradually drop with time and driving. Just a thought.
 
#3 ·
I would monitor oil pressure... I don't know off hand what the oil pressure is supposed to be on a 6.7 but that can tell you a lot as far as any restrictions in the system. Obviously if something of causing an issue with oil pressure you could very well have some other motor damage as well.


But yes run a high quality full synthetic and the archoil can't hurt. But I wouldn't count on it fixing your issue.
 
#4 ·
wouldn't be a bad idea to confirm first that the temp is actually accurate. use a thermogun and when the temp is up at 240, shoot it at the eot sensor
 
  • Like
Reactions: djmaguire
#5 ·
If you still have the OEM coolant cap on it that may be faulty as well. Go to powerstrokehelp.com, click on "common PSD info..." and watch video entitled "5 dollar part that will save your engine". That will explain the cap issue. Basically your coolant will boil at a much lower temp than it is suppose to due to the OEM cap not having strong enough spring to hold pressure. Its 5 bucks at Advance Auto, worth a shot. Hope this helps you.
 
#6 ·
i don't think 6.7's came with the old cap. plus his coolant temp would be high as well and not just eot
 
#7 ·
6.7's have a slightly bigger spring on the cap. I had mine checked with a pressure gauge and it would not hold pressure. My truck is 2012 with 108,000. I changed to the Advanced Auto cap instead of the OEM cap. Lower pressure I believe will make the coolant boil at lower temp thus the fan will never kick on.. I figure for 5 bucks its worth a try.

I hope the OP gets it fixed, these kinds of problems are the worst. The ones you can't find, that is.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the ideas, guys!

I've been using synthetic and Archoil in it since we bought it, seems like cheap insurance for turbos, etc. :)

I may check that cap and see what it's doing, if anything. The coolant never gets over 194*, so there's no way it could be boiling I think.

I guess we'll keep plugging away. Leesfeed, you're right about these types of problems being the worst. Isolated, no one else has the same problem, mechanic tries the same things over and over again, leaves you with the bill... yeah. :)

Thanks again, everyone!
 
#10 ·
I'm having the same problem with my 2011 F350. I'm the original owner. Always use the synthetic oil recommended in the manual. Third time taking it to the dealership for repair. They have previously replaced the oil cooler and now say the only thing left to do is replace the upper oil pan. This will require either taking the cab off or dropping the transmission. The restricter isn't doing its job and is either missing or the wrong size. The dealership called the engineering hotline and they say that if it isn't a faulty cooler then it has to be the restricter.
The last time the engine temp reached the safety shutdown oil temp of 267 I got out and felt the cooler with my hand. It was barely warm to the touch which tells me there isn't any (or very little) oil flow through the cooler.
Just like your symptoms the water temp never got high enough to cause the fan to kick in on high.
I wish you luck and will try to remember to let you know if this works.
Fortunately I'm at 73k miles and am still under factory warranty.
Best of luck to you!
 
#11 ·
i believe the oil restrictor in upper pan is a non servicable part and upper pan replacement is the only recourse. the plug for the restrictor is located at the rear, and can be seen with the transmission out and iirc, the rear cover removed. last time i did an upper pan i just pulled the transmission. i can't see how lifting the cab would help as the trans and rear cover would need to be removed anyways
 
#12 ·
They replaced the upper oil pan by dropping the tranny, and she cools like a dream.
Dealership said the ford engineers have had that restrict plug either not ever installed into the upper pan, or they weren't seated and came dislodged. That was the case for me. It came dislodged and they found it in the oil galley right in front of the inspection plug.
 
#13 ·
Wow, can't believe you have 7500 hours on your engine. Glad to hear that it runs fine despite the cooling issue and your situation is proof that a 5 minute idle cooldown after towing won't hurt anything as suggested in other posts that a 5 minute idle is bad for the engine ;-)
 
#15 ·
I have had the same problem, and YES it IS the restrictor freeze plug in the upper oil pan that has come dislodged and blocked the oil from getting into the oil cooler. Bank on it. 16 yrs working on diesels. As you can see from the pic, with the cooler removed, there is the freeze plug clear as day- will flip up under pressure and close off passage.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Thanks for the information, guys. I wondered if it had to be something other than the cooler itself... which is what the mechanic around here was SURE was the problem. Until they put in a new cooler and it didn't help. [slaps forehead]

This thing gets miserably hot now that we are pretty much into summer. Can't tow more than maybe fifteen miles before I hit 250+ and have to slow way down to let it cool. Very annoying and I don't want to risk cooking the motor... so I back down on it well before it begins to defuel. :p

If I go to drop the pan, what is the best procedure? Do I need to jack up the engine a bit to clear the crossmember? If anyone has a brief description of what it will take, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks so much! I really appreciate everyone's input in helping us get this solved.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the information, guys. I wondered if it had to be something other than the cooler itself... which is what the mechanic around here was SURE was the problem. Until they put in a new cooler and it didn't help. [slaps forehead]

This thing gets miserably hot now that we are pretty much into summer. Can't tow more than maybe fifteen miles before I hit 250+ and have to slow way down to let it cool. Very annoying and I don't want to risk cooking the motor... so I back down on it well before it begins to defuel.


If I go to drop the pan, what is the best procedure? Do I need to jack up the engine a bit to clear the crossmember? If anyone has a brief description of what it will take, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks so much! I really appreciate everyone's input in helping us get this solved.
You will have to drop the transmission to allow the upper oil pan to slide out from the motor, there are a couple of bolts in the upper pan that are hard to get to and you will need to have a 1/4" universal joint with a 1/4" 10mm socket to get to them. Also there are three lengths of bolts in the upper pan- the 6" long bolts you really can't put anywhere else than where they go, but there are 2 slightly longer bolts that go in the very front of the pan, and if they are put anywhere else they will crack the block, so be very careful. So, wrapping up, remove lower pan, remove cooler, remove oil filter housing, remove transmission, remove upper pan. Reverse for installation. Hope this helps.
 
#19 ·
also, if you get the updated upper pan, it will require the updated oil cooler since there is no hole for the stud which is on the old cooler. if you already have the late cooler, you're golden to reuse

also, a dime sized dab of silicon at each of the 4 seal joints between upper pan and block is required
 
#20 ·
Glad to read that last week.

Had the same issue wih my F250 2011, 8200hrs, 258 000 km, was driving on the high way and oil temp was quite high, and wasn't pulling anything.

Today got time, just removed the lower pan and the oil cooler and with a wire i can reach both inlet and outlet port of the oil cooler ... problem found :)

Anyone have the part number of that freeze plug (expansion plug), my ****ing parts guy at my ford dealer is a morron ...

Regards
 
#21 ·
2015 6.7 I have the same problem goin on. While pulling nothing just driving 70mph it will rocket up to 240-250. Shot a temp gun on oil cooler temps were 210 same for oil pan. When I checked the filter where the temp sensor is the ready was 240 as the truck read.
If it is the dislodged plug in the upper oil pan blocking oil cooler is it possible to get it out without dropping upper pan ? Thanks a lot I have zero knowledgeable ford mechanics in my area
 
#22 ·
High oil temp when towing

Hello. I'm having a similar problem with a 2016 F350 SRW. 38,000 miles now. I bought it new, no mods other than a K&N cold air intake. I have used only Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic oil, changed it every 5,000 miles. I saw 240+ towing a Uhaul 6x12 trailer up mountains, also saw 240+ towing a 36 foot fifth wheel toy hauler, empty, flat ground, 70 mph. In both instances the transmission fluid temp was around 205. I brought it to Lamarque Ford in New Orleans, they were zero help. Basically they told me since there was no code they wouldn't do anything. I also chatted online with someone on the Ford website, they told me the same thing the dealer told me. I am a diesel mechanic, I work on EMD's in tugboats, drilling rigs, power plants, dredges, and other industrial/commercial applications. I know 240+ oil temp can't be good for the engine. I bought a diesel truck because I wanted something that I could work/tow with and something that would last me a long time. I've always driven a Ford truck, but I'm considering trading in for a Dodge now since Ford doesn't seem to be interested in correcting this.:frown2:
 
#23 ·
240° and slightly higher is not uncommon for the 6.7 when climbing mountains with a load. As soon as you crest and start down the other side, it quickly drops back to normal temp. Personally, I don't think it is worth worrying about unless it is sustain even on the downhill side of the mountain.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top