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Engine has no power when pulling a load

17K views 34 replies 6 participants last post by  crawlerhauler67 
#1 ·
Have 2012 F350 4WD Cab chassis with flat bed. 4.10 rear gear, auto. When pulling 15,000 goose neck hot shot load, engine has no power or throttle response. Gets about 6 MPG at 70 MPH. 70 MPH is about wide open unless I get a run down a hill. Has 94,000 miles, stock motor. Ford has updated computer twice.
Keep getting P2059 DEF engine code. Code will stay on for about 500-600 miles and then go out. Usually comes on when pulling a load. goes out the next day when trailer is empty. Empty gets about 8.5 MPG. Bobtail empty trucks get 11.5-12 MPG but still does not have much power or acceleration.
Any ideas on what is going on? Ford dealer no help. What can I do to to motor and still pass DOT inspection?
TIA
Rick
 
#2 ·
Is the DOT only visual or do the smog test? Do they hook into the OBDII?


As far as your code, how are you clearing the code? Do you have a monitor?

The Cab and chassis have differant turbos than a pickup and lower power rating, my 12 350 dually pickup hauls 13,5k like a tard with a radio flyer and gets 11mpg at 70mph with cruise hooked up, all day long twice on Sunday.

as far as the code @kaya would know where to start

not sure if you can swap turbos to the 15 MY pickup turbo and a emissions on tow tune?
 
#4 ·
I'd either make it really easy to swap the Dpf and cat in by adding a bolt on flange behind the cat so it all bolts in quick and easy and have a delete pipe made same length that bolts in same way. or u could hallow out the cat and dpf and run the delete tuning. I think it's retarded they derated the power on cab and chassis
 
#5 ·
That's what I was thinking, gut the exhaust and put blockoffs under the egr pipes, but the egr still needs to be unplugged?
The other concern is if you gut the pipe it will be a lot louder, and the tip will have soot in it. Any Inspector worth their salt would pickup on it right away.

Another thing to consider is some of the C&C have been known to go through turbos like Christmas cookies. Does yours sound like a ShopVac? High EGT's?

Has it always had no balls loaded? or is this new.

Are there a lot of idle hours? >30%?

Generally the EGR and the DPF love heavy towing, but DEF faults can put you into reduced power.

Honestly easiest thing would be trade it out for a non cab and chassis F350 drw before you hit a bunch more miles,

or maybe @kaya or @Jeremy@NoLimit could tell us if a pickup Turbo would fit and a custom emissions on tune written for that?
 
#6 ·
Def codes will put you into reduced engine power. That could be the cause for the lack of power and poor mileage.
As mentioned, was it always that gutless? Those mpg sound pretty bad. Even for a loaded c and c.
Do you have any other codes?
P2059 isn't usually difficult to resolve. Often, I've found opens in the harness' could be the pump itself as well.
Personally, I'd try and figure out the code first before doing anything drastic.
There is a bulkhead connector rear of the def tank which isn't too hard to get to. I would start by checking pump power and ground there, koeo. You will need a diagram first. I believe the PCM will try and maintain constant pressure of about 70psi, so you should see power. Unless the PCM disables it due to the code. Which is possible as well.
Is this still under warranty?
 
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#7 ·
Out of factory emissions warranty 5y/80k for a '12 iirc
He's at +90k
 
#8 ·
Does have high idle time on occasion when wait on location or when sleeping. Bought truck at 62,000 miles so has been low on power since then. Doesn't throw any other codes. Truck does have extended warranty with FORD. Thought it was 6 years or 100,000 miles.
Can't tell now when it is in regen or when it finishes. Performance doesn't seem to change when it says cleaning exhaust filter.
 
#11 ·
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2012/12_FLRVTT_gde.pdf

Not to add confusion, but here you go anyway

as per pg19 the Pickup model F350 cc drw 4x4 with 3.73 gears max fithwheel is 21,500lbs

pg20 f350 Cab & Chassis f350 the most you can tow is 16,100lbs

difference of 5400 lbs, That's a lot of money on the table!

I would only assume that the goose neck and 5th capacities are the same thing.
 
#14 ·
So the 2 GCVW #'s for c&c the top 24,500 is for f350
the bottom 26,000 is 450/550

If you follow along the chart it's by axel and engine then designation with wheel and cab configuration

The pickup 350 GCVW is 30,000
My 4x4 cclb drw with me and junk, couple hundred pounds in bed, full tank (38 g) is close to 8500 so that would leave me with 21,500 I could tow.



1 you are having emissions related issues
2 the c&c's don't tow worth a damn, different turbo, derated factory power, lower gcvw.

My gcvw with the camper is 23k and I'm stock with no lack of power.

Not trying to brag, just thinking your best bet would be to see about trading out trucks.

If I was hot shottin I would be on the way to the dealer right now...
 
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#15 ·
Yes the c and c are severely derated. Problem is the manufacturer has no idea how much weight will be on a c and c once fitted with whatever the buyer uses it for.
So it's derated vastly to be on the safe side.
A pickup is going to stay a pickup after it leaves the lot. It won't change.

If the pump is under warranty still, the dealer really should be figuring this out.
But yea, if you don't need a c and c, trading for a pickup wouldn't be a bad idea. The c and c is a bit of a dog in comparison. Even in top running condition
 
#17 ·
Good idea on the tune and delete. It's the best thing you can do to a 6.7.
 
#18 · (Edited)
What about inspections?
You could fix the problem and then tune without deleting. Unlock some of that power and get some better mileage.
Or get a pipe and just swap in and out every inspection. That ain't that hard to do either.
Up to you. I think I'd choose the latter personally
 
#20 ·
How can the system be OK if you're throwing a p2059?
You'd need to either repair for the p2059, then tune it for more power/mpg or just delete the emissions by removing 2/3rds of the exhaust system under the truck and installing a straight pipe and running a tune.
The first option will keep you legit. The second, you'll need to swap the doc, scr, and dpf Everytime you go for inspections, and switch back to stock tune.
 
#22 ·
You shouldn't need to tell them anything. Aside from the fact there is a problem. Is there another dealer you can bring it to?
 
#24 ·
Well it's either you try that, or you keep bringing it to them until they decide to fix the problem. Unfortunate
 
#25 ·
If you're not getting service as you should, call the Ford customer care # in your manual.

Did they physically test anything (wiring, pump, etc) or just push button on the laptop?

I have heard of body installers screwing up the DEF lines, tanks, wires, etc.
 
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#29 ·
Well this is a horse of a differant color.

Do you have a monitor? edge CTS, FORScan with OBDII dongle and smart phone/ tablet?

There is a PID for average distance Regen, Distance since last regen or something.
Also I would monitor the 4 egt probes in the exhaust.

Could it be a sensor Issue? Maybe, last time I towed heavy the egt's where up 600-900*F
iirc passive regen occurs egt<572*F I would regen every 500mi by default for >5 min

Also the c&c order of components on the exhaust are different than the pickup, DPF in the center of the warp drive vs at the end on a pickup. Maybe more naturally prone to clogging in this configuration?

Eventually the soot getting burned off by the DPF will turn to ash. The ash will not burn off, but rather remain in the filter thereby clogging it. This maybe the issue. Possible pre-existing condition at time of purchase due to high idle hours, shart fuel, cheap oil and so forth.

There is reduced power and increased fuel consumption during active regen so as @kaya said this is a contributing factor.

What was the DPF % full after the dealer performed the manual regen? If it didn't get clean then is it full of ash?

Lastly i'll leave you with this, have you tried Archoil AR6200 fuel additive? Snake oil or not, it has reduced my regen frequency and gain better mileage. Worth a $45 try before a bunch of throwing parts at it(or off it in this case lol).

**Just so you know I'm not a fan of the emissions package on these trucks, but I have had my fair share of dealing with guvmint B.S. while trying to earn a paycheck. Sometimes it's just easier to "play along" and avoid the hassle of getting caught. I'm not sure what the penalty is you removing emissions equipment, but the EPA was after a company I did work for years ago for allegedly dumping dirty paint water down a storm drain to the tune of + $10k. Not to mention OSHA, wanted to fine me for wearing a respirator in dusty conditions without proper classroom certifications.....
 
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#27 ·
If your dpf is going through regens too often it could be a sign that it needs replacing. There is a PID for average distance between regens.
These dpf's generally have a service life of about 150k, sometimes less

And if the dpf is spent and you're going through regens constantly, your mileage is gonna suffer for sure
 
#28 ·
Take the dpf and everything else on the exhaust out and get it hollowed out and get delete tuning, and also do an egr delete. All of the problems you have will be fixed, you'll have more power, better fuel economy, no more cel, and a more reliable truck.
 
#31 ·
as mentioned previously, any inspector who knows a damn will spot the black tailpipe. if he were going to delete/tune, i'd recommend installing a straight pipe, turning off the egr and then when reinspection time comes, reinstall the dpf, and load stock tune
 
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