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Fender Flare Suggestions

8K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  gsatroker 
#1 ·
I've had my Carli 2.5" Starter system for about 5k miles. My rims are BMF Novakane 20x10 with a -24 offset (purchased from a member on here). I have Goodyear Duratrac 325/60/20's on it. Of course since it is a wide wheel the tire does stick out some.

I am not a fan of large fender flares since the truck will never be any taller (I pull a 36ft car hauler from time to time).

I want something that's flush fit with no rivet looks that also doesn't cover the wheel + more free space. They will be color matched of course.

I've heard the King Ranch has a small fender flare added, is this true? If so would this cover me? What kind of price am I looking at for that kind of setup?

Pic of truck to get an idea:


On a cool note normal license plates get replaced tomorrow with "ITS SLOW" since "IS STOCK" still looks better on the Porsche.
 
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#2 ·
I'm not sure if you're a fan of the wide wheel look or not but another option would be to sell the current wheels and get some 20x9's with a 0 or negative offset to tuck them in more. I personally haven't seen any flares that look good on the 2011+ trucks. In the long run that would probably be cheaper than buying flares an having them painted.

The King Ranch flares look OK but they don't really cover that much.


BTW- Your Porsche is sick! Do you have a build thread or info on here or any other sites for that matter?
 
#3 ·
Fyi I have king ranch take offs if your interested. I went with the big fender flares since I have a lift.

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#4 ·
Find some factory fender flares.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the responses guys! Superduty I sent you a PM.

Dan if you are ever in Houston you know you are welcome to go for a ride in it (after this last round of mods that we are finishing up I am 100% done with the car LOL!).

There is an old build thread on 6speedonline when I first got the built motor. Basic break down though is it's a fully built 3.6ltr (stayed stock bore size, but thicker/stronger sleeves, stock crank, Manley Rods, CP Pistons, GT3 Oil pump, 12mm studs (stock is 10mm) and a few other tricks done to the block), Headworks cylinder heads with all upgraded Ferrera parts and reground cams. Motor was built to rev to 9-10k, but my tuner/good friend said he would back hand me before that happened so we rev'ed to 8300-8500 (stock is 6800). Re-used my first turbo kit from Boost Logic but swapped to GTX35's, so T3 flange, TiAL 44mm's, 6" Intercoolers per side, TiAL 50mm BOV's and all 3" intake piping. For fuel it sounds overkill but have to remember I run E85 and C85 so had to go big. Weldon 2345 for a pump and ID2000 injectors. Car when it made 1040rwhp @ 29psi on E85 and ran the times it did was tuned with an HKS Fcon standalone. We ran out of intake (swapped hot sides even thinking that could be problem) at 1150rwhp on C85 and C23.

I lost a head gasket awhile back due to studs being 55 ftlbs (4th pull that made 1148 on C85), but now are at ~95ft lbs per. We also put an intake off of the GT3 Cup Car (Since NA it has a MASSIVE plenum compared to a small T the turbos use), swapped the standalone to a ProEFI system, got rid of the ID2000's and added Precision 225lb injectors and added a JMS Boost a pump.

The goal is to max out the GTX35's (so 1250-13XX) and trap well in the 16Xmph area while still having everything (ac/powersteering/radio/etc). Will never touch the Turbo Lambo territory but it will hold it's own against almost any other street car.

Video from the night we went the 155mph (the car is originally black, matte white is how the car sits now with the wrap). Pass was a 10.07 @ 154



And quick phone recording from my brother when I was trying some 60-130 passes. Went 4.1's best that night. Traction was not on my side on most runs.



Sorry for sorta hijack on thread but I haven't made a post with updates in forever on the car.
 
#8 ·
There is an old build thread on 6speedonline when I first got the built motor. Basic break down though is it's a fully built 3.6ltr (stayed stock bore size, but thicker/stronger sleeves, stock crank, Manley Rods, CP Pistons, GT3 Oil pump, 12mm studs (stock is 10mm) and a few other tricks done to the block), Headworks cylinder heads with all upgraded Ferrera parts and reground cams. Motor was built to rev to 9-10k, but my tuner/good friend said he would back hand me before that happened so we rev'ed to 8300-8500 (stock is 6800). Re-used my first turbo kit from Boost Logic but swapped to GTX35's, so T3 flange, TiAL 44mm's, 6" Intercoolers per side, TiAL 50mm BOV's and all 3" intake piping. For fuel it sounds overkill but have to remember I run E85 and C85 so had to go big. Weldon 2345 for a pump and ID2000 injectors. Car when it made 1040rwhp @ 29psi on E85 and ran the times it did was tuned with an HKS Fcon standalone. We ran out of intake (swapped hot sides even thinking that could be problem) at 1150rwhp on C85 and C23.

I lost a head gasket awhile back due to studs being 55 ftlbs (4th pull that made 1148 on C85), but now are at ~95ft lbs per. We also put an intake off of the GT3 Cup Car (Since NA it has a MASSIVE plenum compared to a small T the turbos use), swapped the standalone to a ProEFI system, got rid of the ID2000's and added Precision 225lb injectors and added a JMS Boost a pump.

The goal is to max out the GTX35's (so 1250-13XX) and trap well in the 16Xmph area while still having everything (ac/powersteering/radio/etc). Will never touch the Turbo Lambo territory but it will hold it's own against almost any other street car.


I only know suspension, WTF did you just say? lol! Still want to go for a ride, I'm sure that, even with a complete lack or understanding of the above, It will all make sense after a hot-lap!
 
#7 ·
Same here, I don't like how the aftermarket fender flares look on our super duty's.
I ordered the bushwacker "extend a fender" flares from amazon which aren't as beefy as the rivet style ones. Figured i'd put them on just to see how they look, but still seemed to stick out too much and I honestly think they look hideous from the side.

I returned them, and bought a set of new ford OEM fender flares that come on the king ranch. I thought they would extend it more then they actually do. My guess would be 3/4-1" max. But it's better then nothing I guess.
My truck has 20" x 9" wheels with a 0 offset, so with those wheels and the king ranch flares my guess would be they will still stick out .25-.5 inch. Not too bad and I think it'll look nice once they are on there.
Having them paint matched tuxedo black at the moment.
 
#10 ·
My dad put king ranch flares on his truck when he painted the bottom black. This is obviously with stock wheels but it gives you an idea on how much they stick out.

 
#11 ·
I love the tag on the Porsche "IS STOCK".
 
#13 ·
Sorry missed that question earlier. The place that did it I cannot remember the name. If I talk to Zohair at Boost Logic tonight I will get the company name. I had it done kind of a rush job in Austin instead of down here. We wanted to get it done before TX2K12 so the guys came to Boost Logic and did the wrap there in the shop.

I know there are a few good places in town but can't think of any names off the top of my head. Hadn't looked at it in awhile. Probably going to end up just painting the car matte white sooner or later. Sitting in the shop with the motor coming in and out it has taken a tole on it.
 
#15 ·
#18 ·
Wanna race your Porsche against my Eclipse?
Oh, and I have Rugged Ridge Flares on my truck. I am about to get the same rims you have in black. This thread was pretty much exactly what I was looking for. I was trying to confirm if a 20x10 would fit on a 2012 with only a 2" lift.
 
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