2013 Lariat Factory Nav/Sony/MyTouch/Audiophile system upgrades - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:21 PM
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2013 Lariat Factory Nav/Sony/MyTouch/Audiophile system upgrades

I'm getting ready to pick up my new to me 2013 F250 Lariat CC 4x4 in a day or two. I had the "premium sound" in my current 2010, but was never impressed with it (I couldn't hear it with my windows down/sunroof open). The new truck has the Nav/MyTouch/Sony Audiophile system in it, but I keep reading more and more poor reviews of this system as well. What are my options without gutting the truck and starting over? I definitely don't want to give up the factory nav/mytouch setup. I want it to remain as factory as possible. How do I make that happen? I'm not opposed to changing out speakers, adding amps, sound deadening parts of (or all of) the cab if that will help considerably, etc. I'm not looking to spend a fortune if I can help it.
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Old 07-08-2014, 05:53 AM
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From someone who's's been into car audio for more than 20yrs, I didn't want to do a full blown active setup. Takes allot of time and you end up spending countless dollars for minimal gains. I did a basic setup that sounds amazing compared to the factory Sony system.

I used Massive Audio's line converters to tap into the Sony Amp for the 5x7's in the front doors. Not in to rear fill, so I left those alone.
Hi-Low Converter*| Massive Audio

I have a few amps lying around so I decided to use one of my Class D's for the 5x7s. It puts out around 190x2 rms @ 4ohm and 300x2 @ 2ohm. Give or take a little. The more power the better. I mounted it under the seat in the storage compartment.

Installed the Infinity Kappa 682.11's for the front doors. Pretty much the best 6x8 out there right now in terms of power it can take and the sound it puts out. The only others I would consider would be the Image Dynamics 6x8, which I have and they are amazing speakers. Link for reference. You can pick them up for around $125-$130 if you shop around. Maybe even cheaper.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086821...1cf.html?tp=93

You might want to also consider the Helix 5x7's. I ran their Competition amps a few years ago. German Engineering is 2nd to no one.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975E57X...57X.html?tp=93

I went ahead and sound deaden the inner door skin and a few layers around the speaker itself. No need to over deaden a vehicle, just a few key areas will work just fine.

I decided to also change out the tweeters for the SEAS Prestige. I'm a old DIY person so I rarely use any car audio speakers. DIY speakers are far superior and often less money. However, in most cases, I would run active back then. To ensure I got the crossover point I wanted, I ditched the factory capacitor which is a 4.7uf. I installed my own capacitor to ensure I get the cutoff I wanted. I went with a 5.6uf for a 4ohm speaker with a 6db roll off.
The Madisound Speaker Store

The Madisound Speaker Store

I ditched the Sony subwoofer and mounted the Sony amp to the floor. Kept the line out converters close to the amp.

For the subwoofer, I decided on the Alpine SWR-T12. In terms of output, it's a great subwoofer and digs deep. You can get them for around $250-$300 if you shop around. Link is for reference of what it looks like.
Alpine SWR-T12 Type-R Thin 12" 4-ohm shallow-mount subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

As for the box, I just had a custom box built so I didn't need to remove the rear wall carpet or the drivers side vent on the back wall. I'm using a Alpine PDX M6 which is also very tiny. Mounted it under seat as well. You can pick them up for around $250 t0 $300. Link for reference. Check on Ebay.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ne-PDX-M6.html

I also changed out the 3.5" center speaker for a 4" speaker that is able to play lower and has a separate tweeter.

Last edited by lizardking; 07-08-2014 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:36 PM
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Excellent points all around, and you seem to follow my same line of thinking. I too have been a car audio guy for years, but haven't fooled with it in the last ten years or so as other things took priority (simplicity, space, cost effectiveness, etc.).

If I read your post correctly, you are still using the factory amp for the center channel and rear fill? How much space do you have left in your underseat storage area after mounting the amp there? I've still got some amps laying around (JBL CS300.1 and CS60.4) from the install in an F150 I had before my current F250. I'm not sure if I can find a way to incorporate them or not based on their size. I had toyed with the idea of a pulling the factory sub out and replacing with a single JL 12" woofer in a small box (if I can locate one that doesn't need to modify the back wall area).

What purpose does that center channel speaker serve? What, if anything, are you using to integrate the external amp(s) to the factory system? I know there are some Audiocontrol and JL units that get a lot of love for that purpose.
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:31 AM
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I agree go passive, active is not worth it unless you are made of money and someone is doing the work for you.
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