Tapping into stock sub wiring? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:37 PM
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Tapping into stock sub wiring?

Ordered an 8" JL micro sub and a JL jx250/1 amp to replace the factory garbage. Can I tap into and add a line out convertor right at the factory amp plug? Or is the amp I bought capable of splicing into the factory wiring like the Rockford PBR amps are able to do? Also, which wire, at the plug, is what?
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:19 PM
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The jx250/1 amp has a built in line converter.

The tapping will vary by model year. The 2013 has a 10 channel amp mounted on the factory sub. From there you tap the high level sub out into your new amp.

The pre-2013 with factory sub have a separate sub amp. You may be able to use the low level signals on that connector.

Last edited by jetskier; 09-09-2013 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:47 AM
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Thanks. Truck is an '11
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Old 09-10-2013, 08:28 PM
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For my 12 I tapped into speaker wires running to the factory sub, spliced in and attached a single RCA cable, Y on the single RCA coming off there into the XD300/1 amp. Works perfect.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:24 PM
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Went by the local stereo shop today to buy some coaxial 5x7's and we ended talking about this install. They convinced me to use a LOC. Worked on it tonight but couldn't get it right. I've got my ground, power, and remote, the remote isn't turning the amp off....

I also can't get the LOC to work right. It has 5 wires, 2 for each RCA jack and a ground. What is the correct way to connect these? + and - to one side or + to the + side and - to the - side?
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:43 PM
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Hmmm. Sounds cheap. The RCA are + on the center tip and - on the outer ring. Ground is not used for the RCA connections.

What's the remote coming from???? If you are using the 12V accessory, it may be the accessory delay not turning it off.

I found the best way to deal with the remote is to use a LOC with a remote sense. PAC Audio has a two channel version on Amazon for $30. If it senses an audio signal, the remote wire goes high (12V). I wired it the LOC to the constant 12V on the amp. Not worth wiring it to the switched accessory as it doesn't use much current in standby.
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