upfitter switches

[isisrider]

Ok, so I finally got the new dually now looking to add some lights to the rear of the truck. I have been reading here and getting some ideas. I would like to add two lights under the bumper, and two lights inside the bed for hooking up the 5er at night. I want to use the upfitter switches, but I am a little confused. I am assuming that they are hot, because the light on the switch goes on when I turn it on. Is the blunt end hot or does there need to be a splice done somewhere to get the power to the engine side of the firewall?
Also what lights are you guys using for the rear and bed lights and where did you purchase them.

thanks,

[fattylo]

Under your steering column.. left side are your upfitter wires. They are color coded and are already hot. Beware if the lights on the switches are on, does not mean there is power. The lights on the switches have a diffferent power source. (does't make sense). Aux switch one and two are fuses under the cab with fuse 190/191 i beleive and are 25amp fuses. (refer to owners manuel) the other switches are fused inside the cab. I hooked up back lights to my truck with the upfitter switches and all seems to work so far. I used hella 500 fogs for my bed lights attached to my cab rack. They give off a wide beam and are very bright. The best deal i found was through amazon with free shipping. Hope this gets you started.

[twin200]

Originally Posted by fattylo

Under your steering column.. left side are your upfitter wires. They are color coded and are already hot. Beware if the lights on the switches are on, does not mean there is power. The lights on the switches have a diffferent power source. (does't make sense). Aux switch one and two are fuses under the cab with fuse 190/191 i beleive and are 25amp fuses. (refer to owners manuel) the other switches are fused inside the cab. I hooked up back lights to my truck with the upfitter switches and all seems to work so far. I used hella 500 fogs for my bed lights attached to my cab rack. They give off a wide beam and are very bright. The best deal i found was through amazon with free shipping. Hope this gets you started.

The third switch is 10 amp,the fourth 5 amp.

[kingranch489]

Has anyone had any problems with the up fitter on the 2011? I wanted to hook up the compressor for my air suspension. I hooked up the compressor on my Firestone air helper suspension bags, Firestone Ride-Rite 9287 Air Compressor, and turned on the switch. The compressor ran for about five seconds and stopped. I tested the compressor with a separate power source and all is fine. The PDF I viewed for these up fitter switches states the up fitter in position one is a 25amp, the yellow wire out of the four provided. The compressor I am using calls for 18 amps. I am no wiring genius but the gauge of this yellow wire does not look capable of handling 25 amps and apparently not even 18 amps. Has anyone had an issue with this? I know I could just as easily run a heavier gauge wire to the up fitter and be done with it but it defeats the purpose of stating the up fitter can handle 25 amps. Any input would be appreciated.

[twin200]

Originally Posted by kingranch489

Has anyone had any problems with the up fitter on the 2011? I wanted to hook up the compressor for my air suspension. I hooked up the compressor on my Firestone air helper suspension bags, Firestone Ride-Rite 9287 Air Compressor, and turned on the switch. The compressor ran for about five seconds and stopped. I tested the compressor with a separate power source and all is fine. The PDF I viewed for these up fitter switches states the up fitter in position one is a 25amp, the yellow wire out of the four provided. The compressor I am using calls for 18 amps. I am no wiring genius but the gauge of this yellow wire does not look capable of handling 25 amps and apparently not even 18 amps. Has anyone had an issue with this? I know I could just as easily run a heavier gauge wire to the up fitter and be done with it but it defeats the purpose of stating the up fitter can handle 25 amps. Any input would be appreciated.

Yea, the leads for the upfitter switches seem small,but I have a set of lights
pulling 20 amps.they work fine with no problem(first switch).you may have to check your relay for this switch.location should be in the manual

[brmccolley]

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q117-R2.pdf

[twin200]

Originally Posted by brmccolley

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q117-R2.pdf

It helps me,for some reason I thought no.4 was 5 amp. Do you know what the other group of blunt wires are for? Are they keyed and able to run a guage light and LEDS

[brmccolley]

I 'm no electrical engineer, or know how to interpret much of what's in the following, but I hope this will help you

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...rical_v1.1.pdf

pg four shows where the pass through wires come out relative to the master cylinder.

The wiring break down begins on page 13. Good luck with the text size.

Helpful advice begins on page 26.

If you found the information helpful, and if you don't mind, please leave some positive feedback on my score (top right opposite of my sign on name). I spend hours doing research and searching the internet, much to my wife's dismay, to answer questions on numerous boards and wouldn't mind the input. Thanks.

[twin200]

Brmccolley I don't know about the electrical engineer part,but the information you come up with is incredible.Thank you very much,I just printed everything.Page three tells circuit no. and function plus color abrv.WOW
I'm not sure how the score board works yet,but I'll try

[mlux2008]

Is there any way to convert the upfitter switch to a 3-way switch? Or replace the switch with a 3-way? Benefit to doing this is so that I can put in 08+ mirrors on the truck and wire the switches to power fold and telescope using the switches and leave everything on the driver side door stock (clean look)