Hunter of Trolls
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: east coast
Thanked 196 Times in 152 Posts
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
searched and searched, assit with parts list please?
I need to swap out a fuel rail pressure sensor.. I don't know if it's the sensor or the harness, which I read go bad too.. so, I'm getting both, though I hate just throwing parts at something..
anyway- what gaskets do I need? what other parts and pieces?
is the valve cover gasket re-usable?
also- and this is just of interest if anyone cares to know, and isn't worth launching a new thread for- but:
about 450 miles into a 1500 mile leg of a haul, I lost this sensor.. It put me into some sort of limp mode, but without the little wrench showing up on the dash.. in such, there is no cruise control (which is why/how I know precisely when the sensor gave up the ghost), and power is limited..
I was running the mild tune (H&S) on the wild setting..
upon stopping for fuel, the CEL came on (P0192).. I cleared it, and it didn't hesitate to return (which leads me to believe it's electrical and a faulted sensor or harness).. trying to pull out of the station under load, the trans flared in each gear.. badly..
I dropped the tune to no power, and the flaring stopped so long as I was easy on the go pedal..
I ended up driving an additional 3k miles with it in this state.. I had about 2k# in cargo, and didn't have a trailer..
I managed 18MPG's hand calculated, and 37.5MPG as recorded by the lie-o-meter.. reason I share that? because that sensor (fuel rail pressure sensor) plays a heavy role in the computers translation of fuel mileage.. no doubt about it.. it occurred to me that folks who have wildly varying reading between hand calculated and lie-o-meter readings may have an issue with their FRP sensor too.. mine was dead nuts on for the longest time- I still hand calculated it, but only to check.. nearing the end of that things life, it started to vary- and vary high.. I bet a dollar to a donut that folks with varying readings are suffering from a weird FRP sensor.. and would like to add:
the tunes (which I've been trying to study) alter the delivery rate significantly- one of the ways they do this is by altering rail pressure:duty cycle of the injector tables.. it basically allows more fuel to be dumped by allowing higher pressure and longer duty cycles.. pretty easy.. I'm gambling that while running a hot tune, you can toss that lie-o-meter out the window..
one more thing that is part statement and part question:
beyond doubt, without any question about it, my EGR is cycling... the tune on the truck is still the mild tune, and I'm running it on no power until I get this sensor issue resolved.. but beyond any doubt whatsoever, the EGR is cycling.. I'm guessing the 'limp home mode' I'm experiencing has allowed the computer to 'fall back' to some sort of resolve similar to running 'open loop' in a gasser (engine operation purely based on scripted tables with zero environmental sensor input).. the reason it is of concern to me is that I am about to remove the EGR and coolers in their entirety (kit is staged in the garage).. my concern is that removing the thing, tuning via H&S mini maxx, and THEN somewhere down the road suffering another sensor failure would cause the truck to resort to the limp logic, attempt to cycle the EGR (which would no longer be there), and cause the computer to lock out operation of any sort.. what are your thoughts on that? also, do you fellas think it would be possible to alter the hard tables on the PCM to disengage the EGR cycle during limp mode home logic via H&S scripts?