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Old 03-27-2010, 07:22 PM
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Battery Drain Please Help!!!!!!!!!!

I have a 2008 F250 Crew Cab 4x4 with a 6.4.
The problem I am having is a battery drain. It dies over night. I was having this problem before, and we put new batteries in it seemed to be fine, now about three weeks later it is doing it again. I checked all the connections and everything is tight. I also disconnected my stereo system thinking that could be it, but it still dies over night. The only thing I did different with this new set of batteries is installed a edge juice module with attitude.But it did this before I put that on with the first set of batteries. I was trying to get away with taking that off because I don't feel that has anything to do with the problem. The only things I notice is the The + terminal on the driver side had a bunch of corosion which we cleaned of and it still died. I also noticed that with the original batteries the same terminal was real corroded. I tried to see if something was wrong the that cable but everthing is so tight and I cant see anything. When the batteries were changed out the shop told me the one had dead cells but I never asked which one because i thought all my problems were fixed... I was wrong. The other thing I noticed was when my friend shut the door today the lights flickered. (maybe something loose? I don't see anything) I'm really tring to not take this to ford because its now out of powertrain warranty since I have like 65000 miles. So if anyone can help me I'd super appreciate it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:32 PM
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i forget the fuse number or exactly what happened, it was with a work truck with a 6.4 in it.... i know the fuel pump was staying on, thus draining the battery over night. we took it in for repair as it was still under warranty the dealer said its kind of common. maybe this will help u, i know i could hear the fuel running....

otherwise, remove the positive terminal, put a test light at the negative, if its illuminated u have a draw, remove each fuse until the light goes out(theres your draw), its easier with 2 people. good luck
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:09 PM
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I'm going to check the fuses- Do you perhaps know if it was in the fuse block inside the truck or the one under the hood. I'm wondering if that could be it as for some reason the lid to the fuse box came up missing- I don't know if I lost it or the shop did not put it back. I put a tupperware container over it until i get a new cover. I had thought it was the vaccum pump shorting something out as it sits right on top of that of the fuse block under the hood but after I put the temporary lid on it I still am getting a dead battery in the morning.

I did notice that there is a recall here is what the recall states:

Recall Summary
ON CERTAIN TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH A 6.4L DIESEL ENGINE, INSUFFICIENT CLEARANCE OF THE BATTERY POSITIVE (B+) WIRE TO THE RIGHT HAND SPLASH SHIELD BOLT MAY RESULT IN THE BATTERY B+ WIRE CONTACTING THE SPLASH SHIELD BOLT.


Consequence
LONG TERM CONTACT COULD CAUSE WIRE CHAFE, RESULTING IN COPPER WIRE BEING EXPOSED. IF THIS CONDITION OCCURS, THE BATTERY B+ WIRE COULD SHORT TO GROUND INCREASING THE RISK OF A FIRE.


Remedy
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE BATTERY B+ WIRE LOCATION AND, IF NECESSARY, REPOSITION THE WIRE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 3, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.


I tried to see if that could have been the problem but i'm not the tiniest individaul so i can't get my hands far down into the engine compartment. I also don't know what "Right side" they are talking about Driver or passenger. if Im siiting in my truck it be passenger if i'm infront of the truck its driver side
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:24 PM
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Also could you explain how to test that draw again? Sorry if I sound stupid...
Remember I have two batteries do I have to disconnect both? My test lights have an alligator clip on one end which is the ground and the the other pointy end is the positive. I probably sound like a moron but i was a little confused.
Thankyou so much for your reply!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:47 PM
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I pulled number 18 relay which is for diesel fuel control module. It has blue corrosion on the bottom. but noting major its a 4 prong relay so i'm not sure how i'd even check that. The reason i'm thinking it could be a relay as far as fuses is the fact that a relay could possibly stick open or shut possibly???? if i fuse was bad it would just break and there would be no power to that circut, correct??? Sorry for all the replys to the post i'm new to this and keep thinking of new stuff to add.
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:39 PM
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I also checked spot 62 on the fuse block under the hood. 62 is Fuel pump diode it looks fine visaully but not sure how to check it. Would it test like a fuse? Also spot 71 is the fuse for the fuel pump relay diode, PCM/ECM Run/Start Power and that fuse is definitly good. So if it is the same problem IVIuzzy is saying could it be the spot 62 diode or spot 18 relay- both of which i'm not sure how to test.
Also I thought i was kind of weird that I had to replace the batteries so soon, I am the second owner of the vehicle but I also have a 1997 F350 dump truck with the 7.3 and I finally replaced the original Motorcraft batteries two years which made them ten years old- no joke we were all amazed- I've had many optima batteries and they never lasted that long. I didn't feel that it the stock batteries in my 08 would need replaced already.
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Old 03-28-2010, 05:55 AM
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i would see if the recall was done first, if it wasnt, get it fixed....see if that fixes it.

the way you test the draw is to disconnect all the positive terminals, from both batteries leaving the negatives on

put an led test light on a negitive post of the battery( it only needs to be on one) place the prong on the negitive terminal, and clip the alligator clip to the truck for a ground. if its lit up, theres a draw somewhere.

this is easier when theres 2 people because one will need to pull fuses out, and one will need to look at the light, if the light goes out when the fuse was pulled thats your draw.

findout what the fuse was for and inspect the part for a wiring fault, ie short, bad insulation, whatever it may be.



im not sure on the fuel issue, as it was a year ago or so and it was a work truck, so i didnt really care about the remedy as i didnt own the place, lol. and i have a 2002 7.3. but the first thing id do before anything is to test the draw, odds are id start with all aftermarker applications first, then go to factory ones from there.....

good luck and let me know if u need help, my work schedule sucks so ill check on you later tonight.
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:12 AM
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The test light doesn't give you a very accurate depiction of a current draw.

You need to use an ammeter, and after connecting it, wait at least 40 minutes for all the modules in the truck to go to sleep, then monitor current draw and start pulling fuses.

Don't forget to latch the door latches if the doors are open, and pull the bulb out of the under-hood lamp!

Good luck!

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Old 03-29-2010, 05:01 PM
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I haven't had a chance to check any thing further, It been raining like crazy, and my garages are all filled up with the other toys from winter. I tanked to a ford technician from just answers.com and they told me the same thing as far as testing everything. He did say he didn't know of any "common" problem with the 6.4. and basically tried to blame it on any aftermarket parts. I just have the one edge programmer and my stereo. If I take the truck into ford i'd imagine I should take the programmer off... The guy from just answers said I have a 100000 mile powertrain warranty but i think i only had 60000 miles on that. Again I bought the truck used so i need to do some research on that. I really would love to figure this out myself, ford will probably give me the run around. Our dealership just had our 2010 escape for over a month for an axel shaft and I had to call ford like every day, they said the parts were on international back order, it wasn't a pleasant experience. the car was only 2 months old!!!
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:51 PM
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Update I'm getting a p120f trouble code which is excessive fuel pressure variation. I have an appointment at ford on Thursday but I'm a bit worried. Its 2000 miles out of warranty and and thats the high pressure fuel pump its not acting up all the time. I don't know if that has anything to do with my battery draw. I didn't have this problem until I added the edge tuner. It will run like in limp mode but If I shut the truck of and restart it it usually runs fine
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