Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Merritt BC
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My 2 cents worth, The low pressure is fairly straight forward & you shouldn't need any extra parts unless you damage something coming apart. Down pipe has to come loose to access shaft from turbine wheel end for holding purposes when undoing the nut on compressor side. The compressor housing has to come off to access the wheel your going to change. there are 5 bolts, the one in the very bottom will test your patience & make you wish you had never started the job..... but it does come out. You will need to remove the fuel cooler/ x over tube assembly for access. There are a few seals here in the tube but they are normally reusable. Oil feed lines will need to come off and out of the way, there are seals on the banjo fittings that may need replaced. probably have to remove exhaust back press sensor also when cooler/cross over tube comes out.
The low pressure Batmowheel upgrade is where the gains in performance are made & from all accounts, there is very little, to no gain at all in changing the Hi pressure wheel.
I believe, but don't quote me on this, to change the HP compressor wheel the complete turbo would need to come out for disassembly to access the the turbine shaft for holding purposes to let go the compressor wheel nut. That opens up a whole other can of worms! This and no real gain is probably why most don't change the HP, only the LP.
Maybe there is a trick to getting that HP wheel off in place, I don't know.
2010 F350 KR CCLB, mini max, H&S pyro kit, ARP studs, II 71/59 billet turbos, RCD ported intake, ceramic BD 6.0 exh manifolds, stainless uppipes, SDP 4" ceramic downpipe, 5" MBRP stainless, sinister egr delete with intake elbow, 3" CAC cold side pipe, BD boots, AFE custom air intake, AirdogII, Mann&Hummel CCV filter, 4.10 Yukon locker rear, Eaton TrueTrac front, Coolant filter