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CAB OFF list of parts........INFO

2K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  bentstroke_02 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay I have been on this site for years now and I get well most of my info off of here. I had my truck for sale a few months back and have decided to keep it and do just more then head studs when the cab is off. Im not looking to add power so more and air and fuel is not what im looking for here. Im looking to make my truck last longer by fixing the problem before it breaks haha. I have headstuds, oil cooler, and thermostats all ready along with oem gaskets. Here is a list of parts that I am thinking of purchasing.

4" BALL/SOCKET STYLE DOWNPIPE (Item #: 64-PS67DP)
Our Price: $279.99

Diesel Site 6.4 Boot Kit (Item #: DS64BTS)
Our Price: $199.00

Elite Diesel Chromemoly Push Rods (Item #: 64-EDE-PRods)
Our Price: $295.00

Elite Diesel Valvetrain Upgrade (Item #: 64-EDE-VTrain)
Our Price: $499.00

Race Ported 6.4 Intake Manifold (Item #: RCDINTAKE)
Our Price: $599.99

Rudy's Diesel Performance 3" IC Pipe (Item #: RDP-IC)
Our Price: $199.00

Rudys Diesel Custom Up-Pipes For 6.0 Manifolds (Item #: 64-RDP-UPPIPES)
Our Price: $579.00

OEM Lifters (Item #: 64-oemlift)
Our Price: $289.00

Part Name: Engine Rocker Arm
Brand: Ford Genuine Parts
Part Number: 6564A
Price: $476.20

I have a buddy that has the 6.0 Manifolds for me. Should I do anything to them before installing?

The plan is if all goes well the truck will go under the knife this fall. Yes I know it is a long time from now but hey guess what at least I know what I need and be ready. That and I want it done right and not have to remove the cab again. The truck spits out of degas bottle once in awhile but my temps are good so I still drive it once in awhile when I need 4x4. I have a ranger and bike to drive haha. So anyways if any of you have ANYTHING thing else that would be a good add and you give me a good reason why it should be added let me know. Thank you Jeremiah
 
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#2 ·
While you have it apart you should do new rocker assemblies on both sides. Also why are you upgrading the valve train if you don't plan on adding power? Just curious. Also it would be a good time to do a coolant flush before installing the new oil cooler.
 
#5 ·
im looking at the solid roller lifter set wouldn't that be the same as the rocker assemblies or am I mixing something up? I have a Spartan tuner so it all ready has some power added and I figures since the heads will be off why not lol
 
#6 ·
All ready been replaced a little over a year ago thanks
 
#4 ·
Also the updated upper and lower radiator hoses.
 
#7 ·
I would definitely not go over stage 1 on the valvetrain. You don't need that heavy of springs or pushrods so why go heavier and put more strain on the rest of your valvetrain. If you goal is solely reliability, you could probably skip coating the exh manny although I personally am a fan of it. I don't how many miles you have on your truck, but I would check very closely on how well you maintain RP and consider replacing your HPFP if there is any question of getting weak. The other big thing you left out is pistons. From a labor standpoint, they are expensive, but I don't think you can call any 6.4 reliable without them (especially a tuned 6.4). Otherwise, what the others mentioned. Also, I am a big fan of doing some kind of LP fuel system upgrade. Personally, either the A-1000 or Fuel Lab would be the way I would go. Some ADs and FASS last, but there are also some which seem to fail rather prematurely.
 
#8 ·
I have 247k on my truck. I watch my fuel rail pressure and it is all good. I will have the piston and rings checked but I pray they are fine.

Also, I am a big fan of doing some kind of LP fuel system upgrade. Personally, either the A-1000 or Fuel Lab would be the way I would go. Some ADs and FASS last, but there are also some which seem to fail rather prematurely. why would you recommend doing this?
 
#9 ·
My own experiences so I may be biased...my truck has 60k miles and it is getting a new HPFP as we speak. I am pretty sure it was mostly the result of getting bad fuel. Would an aftermarket LP system prevented it....who knows, but the factory water separator is not that great IMHO and maybe the extra 2 micron filtration with my new LP system will at least reduce the odds that I will be replacing my HPFP again at 60k miles.
 
#11 ·
My fuel pressure seems to be good so I think ill hold off on that for now. When it goes I will replace with stronger pumps for more fuel lol.

Ill look into the rockers and check mine out when I pull it all apart
 
#12 ·
I would definitely do rockers and lifters (even if OEM) just cause of your mileage.
 
#13 ·
heck I only got 247k on the truck just breaking in haha or breaking down
 
#14 ·
I'm very familiar with built gas motors, and unless a for some reason a diesel is different, which I can't see, on hard parts like the solid roller lifter that is only for race setups. You would have to adjust them regularly, that wouldn't be very user friendly for a daily driver.
 
#15 ·
You know I didn't think of that. I might have to call the company and find out unless there is someone on here that could answer that for me. Thanks for bringing that up
 
#16 · (Edited)
Naw I'm sure you don't want a solid roller setup, stick with a hydraulic lifter, you may wanna call Rudy's or Elite and talk to them about what you want to do, it may save you some confusion and headache in the long run. I"ve never personally built a diesel engine, so I'm always learning about them, I fully understand how the work, but I've just never had a hands on experience, but hard parts like that are always the same. Solid roller is for high rpm and high lift cam setups.
 
#17 ·
Did some research and just going to go with the OEM lifters and rocker arms. Way cheaper that way to
 
#18 ·
That should last ya till ya have bore the block...at least another 350k kilometers
 
#19 ·
If I get 350K without a cracked piston I will be VERY HAPPY. If and when that happens then the truck will get a little faster haha
 
#20 ·
Anyone else got any input
 
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