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Gearbox Z DPF-R 4.0 Plus Review

203K views 361 replies 59 participants last post by  onecrazyfoo4u 
#1 · (Edited)
Wanted to do a quick write up and review on a recent install I did on my dads 08 F350 with 60K miles. His mileage was terrible and the regens we're making the truck blow white smoke out the exhaust and the oil dilution was horrible. So I convinced him to get rid of it. He didn't want big power or custom tuning and didn't want to spend lots of $. So I got on PTP's site and looked for some options. I found the dpf-r and started researching, I could only find 2 or 3 threads mentioning it. Read mostly good things about it, so I pulled the trigger. They have a combo package with tuner and afe pipe. I knew from installing my exhaust a few years ago that I would need a new exhaust sensor to replace the one behind the dpf in the stock exhaust. I couldn't get mine out and I didn't get this one out either.

Installing the tuner was a breeze. Only took about 15 mins. Kinda hard to understand the woman's voice that comes out of the little tuner, but the directions book has the words in it word for word. Once installed I gave it a quick start before undoing the exhaust to make sure it would run.

Unbolted the old exhaust which was a chore. I had to grind off the clamp behind the dpf, it was so rusted, I couldn't get a socket on there to un do the threads. Bought a cheap 3.5" exhaust clamp at the local parts store before starting. Once that was done, I slid it out, luckily my brother was home to help me slide it out of there. I learned a really awesome trick I found in a YouTube video to help separate the rear exhaust pipe from the dpf. I wrapped a 10k pound ratchet strap around the muffler and then back to the hitch. Before undoing the down pipe bolts and rubber hangers, start cranking down on that ratchet strap and tapping the connection with a hammer and that sucker slides right apart. Keep it pulled back and when u throw the delete pipe in there, start loosening up that strap and it slides right together. It was so easy and worked like a champ.

Once on the ground with the dpf, I had to heat the middle sensor to get it out, what a biatch! Finally get it out, button everything up under the truck and zip tie the sensors to the frame rail. Ready to start it and test drive it. Took about 2.5 hours, the longest part was trying to get that sensor out with the torch.

Start it and let it idle and warm up a few mins. Hop in and head down the road. The 70 hp is noticeable and makes for a nice little upgrade. Shifting was off a little which was expected until the trans relearns. But overall, it's exactly what was needed. Took about a 10 mile round trip, lie-o-meter went from 14.0 to 14.1. So I'm already impressed. It was dark out so I couldn't really see much smoke, but there was a slight haze I could see in the headlights behind me.

Won't have some hard mileage numbers til dad puts some miles on it, he doesn't drive it everyday, so it may be a few weeks. Dad took it out for about 70 miles over the weekend to pick up 20 bails of hay, not a huge load but noticeable weight and he said it was way better with the extra HP. Overall, I'm impressed.

If you're looking for a cheap way to delete the dpf and you aren't looking for big power or worried about custom tuning, I recommend the dpf-r! And dad loves it so that's always a plus.

Didn't take any pictures really, it was dark and I did it in my driveway with a led work light lol.

Short video of it after it's warmed up to full operating temp.

http://youtu.be/qyB6bbgeCL4

 
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#3 · (Edited)
Yes, you reuse the sensors. They don't need to be in the exhaust, but thy need to be plugged into the wire harness under the truck. The sensor behind the dpf is the hardest to remove. I'm 0-2 trying to remove them. So I just buy a new sensor from ford before installing a dpf delete on a truck. ~$60 from the ford dealer. Part number for those sensors, there are 3 of them, all have the same part number. 8C3Z-5J213-D

It's worth the $700 and will pay for itself in no time in fuel savings and extended oil use.
 
#4 ·
So far on this tank, Lie-o-meter is reading 20.1 MPG with 4 different drivers. Anxious to see what the hard calculation is when its filled up. i'm hoping for 16+.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the info

Well...... thanks to your posts you've cost me $700. :thumb:

I pulled the trigger on the DPF-R plus from Performance Truck Products. From your previous post I guess I'll have to get a sensor before I start (I live about 40 miles from the nearest dealer).

Wish me luck! Thanks again.
 
#6 ·
good luck and take your time. $700 well spent in my opinion. you'll enjoy the truck so much more now. I know my parents do. just the mileage increase so far on the Lie-O-Meter is tremendous... going from 14 to 20. I know those numbers aren't true, but i cant wait to do some hand calculations on the MPG's.

Yes, get that extra sensor, 8C3Z-5J213-D .... I had a really tough time even getting the 2nd sensor out. I had to torch it. but get some PB Blaster and a good quality flare nut wrench. if you use a regular wrench it will strip almost instantly. start putting pb blaster on all the sensors a few times or a few days before you start the install. and its much easier to tackle the sensors on the ground, not while the dpf is under the truck.
 
#7 ·
I recently upgraded to an SCT with Gearhead tunes and have a DPFR 4 plus for sale if anyone is interested. I have the hard case, instruction manual and tuner and am willing to part ways with it for $350 OBO. Tuner was purchased and installed in mid-July of this year so it is fairly new. Let me know if anyone is interested. Truck ran and towed great with this tune I was just looking for a little more HP.
 
#8 ·
JW - Now you tell me

JW - You just had to put the DPF-R up for sale after I bought one, didn't you? Oh well, it's only money.

P8ntball - more stupid questions for you. I stopped by my local auto parts and bought some panther p!$$ and an O2 sensor wrench. When I got home I immediately slid under my truck to spray the sensors. Here's my question - I was thinking there were 3 sensors I'd need to take out. I only found 2 (not counting the one after the muffler), 1 in front of the CAT and one after the DPF. Am I missing something? Also, is the sensor a dealer only item? If I can get one locally it would save me a lot of driving.

Sorry for the stupid questions. Things were much simpler in the 80's when I wrenched on my 7.3 IH

Thanks for any advice or help you can offer.
 
#9 ·
The one you're missing is about 4 inches infront of the dpf filter where it bolts to the cat. It's right next to the pressure sensor. So you've got the one directly before the cat, one where the cat bolts to the filter next to the pressure sensor, and one right after the filter. The one in the middle is hard to see while it's under the truck. U may need a flash light. Trust me, it's there.... You don't need to take the pressure sensor fitting out, just keep the little black box attached to the wire harness. Here is a pic of the three egt sensors.



I have yet to see an aftermarket sensor yet. I have seen a dummy relay for the dodge's that plug into the harness that replace the sensors , but yet to see one for the fords. So yes, It's a ford only part.

 
#10 ·
thanks for the pic

P8ntball, thanks for the pic to show the sensor locations. Really appreciate your expertise. Soon as I get my delete kit I'm sure I'll have more questions for you. Meanwhile, I'll leave you alone. Wish you lived closer! I'd buy all the beer and pizza you could hold just to get you in my garage helping me.
 
#11 ·
No problem, just ask away. I'm no expert, tons of guys on here know way more than I do. I'm just a weekend warrior with some common sense, patience, and a small amount of wrench turning under my belt in my driveway. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch. I've learned in the last 2-3 years, if u don't have the right tool(s), wait until you do. Most everything I know I learned on this forum or another similar one. Don't stop reading here, you Learn something new everyday.

That o2 sensor wrench, is it a flare but wrench? 13mm ? How much was it if u don't mind me asking.
 
#12 · (Edited)
It looks like a socket but with an offset that you attach a 3/8" drive rachet into. The socket isn't a solid circle but has a cutout in it. The wall of the socket is about 7/8ths of the complete circle. Hope this makes sense. I bought it at O'Reilly's Auto. It was the only Oxygen Sensor wrench they had. It cost $10
 
#13 ·
i know exactly what you mean, i've seen them. Should be 13MM on those sensors.
 
#16 ·
Uuuhhhh, 13mm? Hmmm, the one I bought is a 7/8". Looks like I'll be returning it and looking for something different. I'm headed to the Ford dealer tomorrow to pick up the sensor. Wonder if they'll have a "special" tool for it. Might be worth the extra bucks to get the right tool. Thoughts?
 
#14 ·
p8ntballn2 , Thanks for the write up. I to have been doing research on removing DOC/DPF for all the reasons you mentioned. I have been looking at the DPF-R 4.0 plus as a cost effective solution. So does this setup require all the sensors be put back into the new pipe(s) ? Or just connected and tied up out of the way ? I am thinking if all sensors need to be put back end they maybe as a time saver I'd purchased new ones and leave the old ones in the DOC / DPF and not even fuss with getting them out. This will also help with putting the DOC / DPF back on if my state ever gets emissions testing. Are you monitoring EGT and other parameters in anyway ?
 
#15 ·
Sensors just need to be plugged in and tucked away. They don't need to be in the pipe. None of the tuners technically need to be put back in the exhaust IMO, just plugged in and tucked away. I asked PTP about the bungs, and they said they basically don't even carry the delete pipes with bungs anymore because they aren't needed in the exhaust with a tuner. And they mentioned they were hard to get.

I installed this on my dad's truck, he doesn't have any type of monitor. I plugged my live wire into his truck after the install just to watch the temps, they are all normal and nothing gets out of hand. EOT and ECT stay within 5 degrees at all times.

On the emissions thing, I don't think your state can institute a law/rule on emissions testing on diesels older than the law is. Now I'm no lawmaker or politician, but that's how I see it. You could prob research that a little. Virginia doesn't require emissions testing on diesels, so I'm not worried about it changing.
 
#17 ·
I'm positive those sensors are 13mm. I would return it. I doubt ford will have a special tool for it . I think the best tool is a flare but wrench or what u got that uses the 3/8" ratchet in 13mm ... The pressure sensor bung might be 7/8" but u don't need to take that out. U can leave that in the dpf. Spend the extra $ on a nice set of flare but wrenches if u want to. U could prob buy individual ones at sears or something like that.
 
#18 ·
P8ntball,

OK, I returned the 7/8" socket thing, swung by sears and picked up a craftsman set of metric flare nut wrenches. I also stopped by the stealer and picked up a sensor. I've sprayed all 3 sensors down with PB twice a day for 3 days now. All I'm waiting on is my delete pipes and tuner form Performance Truck Products.

Any hints or tips I need to know before I start? I meant to ask - which do you do first, reprogram the truck or delete the DPF and CAT?

Wish me luck! The last time I wrenched on a diesel was in 1988 and I was installing a Banks Turbo. My neighbor thought I was nuts. I still remember him saying "You're going to blow that thing up, and I'm not taking you to work". :look:
 
#20 ·
Install the tuner first, if something goes haywire with that, u don't want to have to put the stock exhaust back in after you just took it out. After you install the tuner, give it a quick start for 5 seconds to make sure it runs and starts. I did this also on dad's truck just be sure it would start before tearing into the exhaust.

Another tip, undo the sensors first from the harness and the pressure sensor ... And then I would separate the exhaust from the back of the dpf before removing anything else. I don't have a picture, but I used a ratchet strap around the hitch to the muffler to pull the rear pipe back, you'll have some wiggle room on the rear exhaust because of how the hangers are designed. After it's separated then undo the the down pipe flange. Get a semi short pry bar (24" maybe?) to get the rubber grommets off the hangers. Remove the grommets from the exhaust hangers versus removing them from the frame hangers. Maybe spray a little lube to help slide them off.

Another set of hands is really helpful and really helps when u get ready to slide out the dpf and cat.

Make sure you have a swivel for your 3/8" ratchet and an extension, at least 10". The 2nd down pipe flange bolt is almost impossible to get with out a swivel and extension.

One last thing, the tuner came straight from the manufacturer so it will come in a separate box than the exhaust, my tuner came a day later than the exhaust.

That's all I can think of for now. Good luck and take your time.
 
#22 ·
Typically at the dealer guys aren't removing those sensors to put them back in, I used to knock the top of the probe piece off then wind it out with a 13mm 6 point socket (a good one, some cheapies aren't as robust and will round stuff easier) and the flame wrench.
 
#23 ·
To all who've responded or read this thread - I've been reading like a mad man on this forum since I bought my truck. SO much great information here and lots of expertise. Thanks to all who have added something to this great site.

In my very first post titled "newbie needs advice on DPF delete" I asked about a weird noise that occurs when my truck goes into regen. I totally forgot about trying to get an answer to that until it did it again yesterday. It really sounds like something is wrong with the turbo. Imagine a kind of metal scraping sound like a dry bearing that escalates as I accelerate. Then when I take my foot off the throttle it winds down with a sort of "whomp, whomp, whomp". Like I said, it only happens when I see the display flash "cleaning diesel filter".

Any ideas? I'm hoping that deleting the DPF and tuning to prevent the regen will eliminate this - or should I worry about it?

Advice and help is greatly appreciated.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I just installed the dpf-r and drove it about 15 miles around town driving. Works like a charm tranny still shift like it should faster spool up and sounds great with just a dpf delete and a dpf back 4" with out a muffler not too loud but does have more of a powerstroke rumble. I'll post back with some mpg currently I was getting 13 mpg we shall see next fill up. Also the sensor in the pipe I tried with a regular wrench and a flare wrench and couldn't get it off this may sound terrible but I cut the wires and used a craftsman max access socket to get it off and then spliced the wires back. I know it wasn't needed to put the sensor back in but the pipe I had the bung in it and didn't have any thing to plug it with.
 
#25 ·
I'll have to try one of the max axess wrenches. They look pretty cool. I'm convinced if they work on that last sensor behind the dpf, you could get just about anything out with that thing .
 
#26 ·
just so y'all know, the gearbox dpf-r doesn't get the egr function off. you all probably know that already because i'm really new to all of this, i went on some site that said it would be able to remove both egr and dpf functions but the site was full of crap. just thought i'd interject that so you don't get screwed
 
#27 ·
I think you can do a egr delete, but you have to keep the factory elbow so that the plugs stay installed
 
#29 ·
I've been running this since last spring and have consistently got 16.5 mpg. Got up to 17.3 a few times over the summer but those were on longer trips without hauling anything. Hauling my camper I get about 9.5 but can't really tell it's there. Leveling kit and new larger tires are coming soon. Hopefully the mpg don't change to much.
 
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