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  #1  
Old 11-23-2013, 01:35 AM
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Need DPF off truck

Hello,
I have a 2009 F-350 and I use it every day to make my living...I have to let my truck run sometime all day long...the DPF has to go...need more mileage and performance anyway...I want to put an exhaust, air box, and programmer on my truck...won't be off till Christmas so I plan to do it myself then....I would appreciate any help picking the right parts for this....also any install tips....thinks...
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:53 AM
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There are a ton of threads on here discussing this daily. You will here everything from SCT, H&S, Spartan and DPR-R. For the exhaust its not as important. Do you want to delete just the DPF, the DPF and DOC, or the entire stock system from the downpipe back. And then decide if you want bungs in the pipe or not. I run a 5" SS AFE Downpipe back system with bungs and a Spartan programmer running the 275 early lock tune. Also have a S&B intake, Sinister Diesel Coolant Filtration Kit, Sinister Diesel EGR Block Off Plates.
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:54 AM
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Welcome, that rig looks like it will make things happen! Welding? I'm currently teaching myself the process & if you were close to me I'd put your parts on for just a few hrs of you over my shoulder smacking me around giving me a few hood time pointers, but I'm sure Orlando,Fl. is not in your area??? Sorry bud forgetting off track...

Exhaust: mbrp, afe, flopro, plenty more to choose from. 4" seems to be the way to go unless running higher hp.
Tuner: h&s, spartan, sct, and a few other options as well, ( just make sure tuner is preloaded w/emission removal)
Intake: plenty of options here also like manufactures listed above & more.

They say load tuner first to make sure truck excepts it, test drive it if you'd like. Then do exhaust work & reload tuner w/DPF or emissions removed. You shouldn't have to do anything when intake is installed. Truck should gain reliability & sometimes mpg. Have a good1 & hoped this helped. Jayson
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Old 11-23-2013, 03:59 PM
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I'm looking at the Spartan tuner...I have plenty of power...it's factory stock...just want it to stop cleaning the exhaust...little more fuel MPG would help...I weld on pipelines and we idle our trucks a lot...especially if it's real cold...I appreciate all of y'all's input....Jayson, if I was closer I would help you as much as you wanted or needed...Thanks to both of you for your info...
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:12 PM
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08PowerstrokeFX4,
I hate to sound stupid but I don't know if I need the bungs or not...I get a few diesel magazines....this is where I get my ideas...I want an air box, exhaust and tuner to begin with...I don't have much time off so I have to do upgrades to my truck at certain times...welding I know....upgrades to my truck...I don't know...I really don't have the time to go through all of the threads on this website and read them...I appreciate your input more than you know...Thanks...
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondar View Post
08PowerstrokeFX4,
I hate to sound stupid but I don't know if I need the bungs or not...I get a few diesel magazines....this is where I get my ideas...I want an air box, exhaust and tuner to begin with...I don't have much time off so I have to do upgrades to my truck at certain times...welding I know....upgrades to my truck...I don't know...I really don't have the time to go through all of the threads on this website and read them...I appreciate your input more than you know...Thanks...

Bungs are going to be your egt/dpf probe(s). I can only speak for H & S & those are not needed, I learn as I go so I ordered my afe 4" turbo back w/bungs. Tuner doesn't need them hooked up so mine are in place but NOT hooked up. If I did it again I would do w/out bungs. I do believe spartan works the same but have no personal use w/that manufacture. Air box, tuner & exhaust should get you started off right for everything your looking for.
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:00 AM
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I will try to answer most of the questions you prolly will have.....

For spartan and h&s tuners you DO NOT need bungs in the exhaust
For sct and dpf-r the bungs are needed and sensors plugged in at least.

Spartan will have higher power tunes but will not allow you to switch tunes on the fly and people tend to say shifting is a little harsh. H&s won't have the largest tune file, allows for custom tunes though, has shift on the fly, allows for tire size adjustment and you can choose from different shift schedules depending on what you like. Sct is a good choice if you can find an offroad device and get tunes from a good company like gearhead automotive perf or innovative. The easiest way to get your truck tuned is spartan or h&s though. Make sure you buy a "race" h&s because the new street tuners won't do dpf delete off the shelf.

4" vs 5" exhaust.

5" exhaust will not add any more power, it's more for looks and a deeper sound. 4" will do just fine. The 6.4 isn't very loud so straight piping it will sound good but isn't obnoxious at all and hardly any drone. If your truck started out as a cab and chassis then you will have the rear fuel tank after the back axle in which you will need to do a custom exhaust or find a 4" exhaust for a cab and chassis. I just bought a cab and chassis mbrp for our 04 but I haven't seen for the 08-10 cab and chassis. So what you can do is either buy just a dpf/doc delete pipe for the stock exhaust or make a 4" or 5" work. If your just looking for reliability then I would buy a down pipe back exhaust kit because getting the stock down pipe cut out is a pain when installing a turbo back kit. Once again no real power gain, just slightly lower egt's and maybe a little sound.

For intakes, stay away from k&n. S&b and afe are the common intakes most guys use.


Intakes are easy to install, 20-30 min at he most. Install tuner before removing any of the exhaust just to make sure programming goes smoothly. Follow on screen instructions. Down load takes 7 minutes plus or minus. Once the tune gets loaded start removing exhaust. If you choose h&s or spartan leave the sensors in the exhaust and just unplug the wires up by the frame. The plugs are about 12-14" from the sensors. Just unplug them and tape up the plugs so no dirt gets inside them. Loosen the band clamp at the end of the dpf to remove tail section exhaust. May take a few hits with a hammer on the muffler to get them apart. Jack up truck by hitch to extend suspension and you should be able to slide the tail pipe out without cutting it at all. Use pb blaster or wd-40 on the rubber grommets to get the hangers out. To remove dpf there are 2 bolts that bolt the dpf to down pipe flange. Take a look at the flange, the nuts are welded to the dpf side of the flange so if you put a wrench on them they ain't going anywhere lol. So all you need is a 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension and a 13mm swivel socket on the downpipe side of the flange(the bolts, you don't need anything on the nuts). Hit the threads with some wd 40 but all the times I've messed with mine they have came right off. Pretty easy. And that's it. Get the dpf out from under the truck and start throwing the new system on there. If ya can, but a flo pro exhaust kit. Their kits use band clamps that won't crush the exhaust so if you ever need to remove the exhaust again you can.

Let me know if you have any more questions. I'd be happy to help
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:42 PM
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If your happy with the power now I would just do a dpf/doc pipe with either a spartan or H&S more just for the gauge read out. I'm sure when your out in the middle of no where and your truck is acting up you'd appreciate a tuner that will tell you whats going on. Intake is iffy, if you run a low tune I'd say leave it if you run a higher tuner go with S&B or AFE
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:23 PM
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:26 PM
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and this..............

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/per...-cai-sale.html
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