Who has a lot of miles on their 6.4L 5r110 with 300hp tunes?? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.4L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 16 Old 04-04-2013, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Who has a lot of miles on their 6.4L 5r110 with 300hp tunes??

My trans has a bunch of clutch material on the dipstick and falls on its face HARD under wot when shifting from 3 to 5. I'm guessing it slips so badly that it is hitting rev limiter. I did install the go-go solenoid but it did not help my issue.

Since I bought the truck with 65k on it and it has a gooseneck, I'm guessing it was used to tow heavy heavy trailers, and the trans had seen better days anyways.

I'm considering sourcing a low mileage used 5r110 out of a wrecked truck. My other option is a Suncoast base level trans.

Please give me your opinions on either option.
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post #2 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 04:43 AM
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Mine has 135,000 and has a goose neck ball and it was owned by a farmer in LA so I'm assuming the same. It also does some funky stuff on the 3-5 shift on the 275 tune, I don't THINK it's hitting the limiter because it will do it on a 3/4 throttle run. (I don't have the balls to go WOT!!)

And I will probably be looking at the same dilemma. I don't have any plans to go over 550rwhp so I'm thinking a wrecking hard tranny might be the way. BUUUUT, I think after core exchange a base level (mildly built) tranny from SC might be the way to go. I know they have better clutch packs and torque converter. Guess it all depends on how much you trust the donor tranny.
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post #3 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 06:50 AM
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clutch material on the dipstick?

heat is the number one enemy of transmissions.. too much power too quickly? a lot of heat is generated.. too much time between gears on a shift? bookoo heat.. clogged circulation of oil? you better believe it will overheat.. I would figure your cooler is full of the same clutch material that you see on your dipstick... you may consider flushing the cooler, hot flushing the transmission, and new filters all around..

if you buy a new or rebuilt transmission and don't address that external cooler being clogged up, you're going to be right back in the same position in short order.
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post #4 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by drewactual View Post
clutch material on the dipstick?

heat is the number one enemy of transmissions.. too much power too quickly? a lot of heat is generated.. too much time between gears on a shift? bookoo heat.. clogged circulation of oil? you better believe it will overheat.. I would figure your cooler is full of the same clutch material that you see on your dipstick... you may consider flushing the cooler, hot flushing the transmission, and new filters all around..

if you buy a new or rebuilt transmission and don't address that external cooler being clogged up, you're going to be right back in the same position in short order.
A flush would definitely be in order before a new trans. While I've owned the truck the Trans has never seen fluid temps over 170. I've never towed and I monitor fluid temps with my SCT.

'08 F250 Regular Cab 4x4 (sold)
MBRP dpf delete
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IDP/ SCT tuned
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12.76 @ 105.50, 1.80 60ft (before trans or intercooler pipe)
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post #5 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe View Post
A flush would definitely be in order before a new trans. While I've owned the truck the Trans has never seen fluid temps over 170. I've never towed and I monitor fluid temps with my SCT.
well then you're doing it right by monitoring and being aware.. lots of folks wonder aloud "hey, what's that smell?" in the seconds briefly before ATF hits the exhaust in brilliant white clouds, and a catastrophic loss of power..

the dude before you may have ran it hard.. clutch material, if'n your using the right kind of oil in it, doesn't just give out without contributing factors.. use is one factor, but 65k miles isn't enough to do it if the truck was used within its limits.. too much torque being applied is another factor- but that translates to heat, and back to the primary reason most automatic transmissions fail.. I'd guess the second most popular reason is restricted flow, followed by flawed parts/bad build..

check this:



so, the question is: how much clutch material have you lost? is it enough to cause it to slip? if it isn't slipping, is all the clutch particulates the reason why it isn't slipping?

you may find that all the circulating clutch material is consuming the space vacated by attached clutch surface, and closing the tolerances needed to drive it.. if that is the case, you may only have hundreds of miles left on that transmission after a flush.. that would suck..

how mechanically inclined are you? You can buy a rebuild kit for >$500 and do it yourself- you only need a clean place to work and a handful of specialty tools that you can likely rent- and a few days free to do it.. it takes patience, and the trick I've learned is to simply walk away from it when you get aggravated, and return when you simmer down.. drop in another $500 or so on hard parts, and you can build a rock solid transmission that will hold up to whatever that engine can toss at it..

if it is so far gone that a rebuild is gotta happen soon, for the love of all that's holy, replace the external cooler and flush the hard lines thoroughly.
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post #6 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 07:50 AM
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post #7 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Eric@PTP View Post
I've got 197K on mine running 300 + HP tunes and a single 66.
Do you have the go-go solenoid installed?

'08 F250 Regular Cab 4x4 (sold)
MBRP dpf delete
MBRP intercooler pipe
S&B intake
IDP/ SCT tuned
Suncoast Trans (built by Quin Trans in Lompoc, CA)
Cal-Tracs
Eaton Tru-Trac
12.76 @ 105.50, 1.80 60ft (before trans or intercooler pipe)
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post #8 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 08:23 AM
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I've heard lots of people if they waited to long then flushed there tranny crapped out shortly after. I usually just dump what's in the pan every 6 months. I guess if you have that much junk floating around in there you don't really have any other options

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post #9 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 08:51 AM
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post #10 of 16 Old 04-05-2013, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by srjd View Post
I've heard lots of people if they waited to long then flushed there tranny crapped out shortly after. I usually just dump what's in the pan every 6 months. I guess if you have that much junk floating around in there you don't really have any other options
there are all kinds of problems that can happen with a flush- and it is likely a 50/50 split between improper flushes, and what the flush actually does..

some folks flush by reversing the flow of the fluid.. that isn't a good thing.. it presses seals differently, and it dislodges material that has found a nice little hiding spot.. and, it pushes crap into the guts of a transmission from the filter by reversing it's course.. that is how lazy techs at oil change joints do it most often.. they don't even remove the dang filter first..

the way that flushes jack up already goofed transmissions is by removing the clutch material from the oil that was actually helping friction.. if a seal is about to give, a good way to push it on out is by using a high pressure flush..

OP- about your flush... here is how you -safely- do it to prolong the use of your transmission...

- buy a case of fluid.. by a filter.. drop pan, swap filter.. put pan back on, fill it through the feed tube..
- disconnect the low pressure line from the radiator.. point it towards a bucket..
- open every bottle of fluid and have them handy, staged within easy grasp..
- stick your funnel in the fill tube..
- chock the wheels, set the emergency brake.
- have a friend behind the wheel, with their foot staying on the brake, start the engine..
- you start pouring fluid in while the engine idles and your friend slowly goes from gear to gear..
- when you see nice and clear fluid coming out of the low pressure line, go another quart or so longer.
- tell your friend to kill the engine..
- button up the low pressure line..
- drop pan, install another new filter...
- have your friend start it up, and you look for leaks, and check fluid level.. top it off ..

there you have it, a poor mans flush, that is about 99% as effective as a hot flush, and 5000+% better than a reverse flush by some jerk off tech at a oil change joint..
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