input would be great, need temp settings on my coolers - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:19 AM
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input would be great, need temp settings on my coolers

I have aftermarket coolers on my aftermarket filters I installed. they all have fans but none came with temp relays, its seems it would work better to have them installed to it does not come on only with the up switch. Im running, external coolant , oil, trans coolers.

I need to find the normal operating temp of the coolant, oil, trans and what should be the operating range of the fans.

1. coolant on at 190 and off at 180. my truck runs at 200 - 201 ? good or no on the settings?

2. oil temp ? on - off?

3. trans? on - off?


one more question, would it be ok to put in lower temp stats in the truck? is that a good idea or recommended for diesel trucks? if so where do I get them.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:51 AM
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Im not aware of different thermostats (temp wise) for these trucks. My truck unloaded runs 190-192 coolant and 194-198 oil. Trans usually gets around 170 IIRC
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:46 AM
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trans oil operates best at 170*.. there is an internal thermostaticaly controlled vlave that opens at 165* and sips cooler oil, in attempt to keep it around that temperature.. of course, when you work it by towing or hauling, you're going to go over that- and at what point that valve stays open and you bring the full force of the heat exchanges into the mix.. if it is circulating @ 100%, and you're above 220* on that transmission oil, you've got a problem somewhere causing it..

running an external filter and heat exchange for the coolant is a good notion.. aim for a temperature within 10* above the thermostats rating.. I don't want to sound like a prick, but the factors that determine your operational temperature are these, and these alone : volume of coolant, size and design of exchange surface, flow of air through the exchange, flow of fluids through the closed system, and thermostats.. you adding a small heat exchange, even fan driven, isn't going to do a whole lot to cooling the coolant... a plate style exchange (not a tube and fin) will cool the most as it reduces the volume and flow long enough for some cooling to actually take place- but to install it into a system like what we have, it would have to be a big one because of issues with pressures and possibly creating an obstruction... all that said: if you want to lever that cooler for it's best function, turn it on a few degrees before the rated 'stat's temperature.. so you can get a little bit of a head start on it.. but, don't expect it to account for much reduction when you're under load..

I'm watching this thread, and I appreciate you posting it up.. I've had great success with electric fans in the past, and will consider them on this rig, too.. as in, discard clutch fans and go all electric. there is a controller out there called a Dakota, that can be programmed to operate several different channels for either stacking two (or even three) fans on one exchange that each fire up at different temps, or you can operate different fans for different exchanges as yo see fit.. I'd love to have a 7kCFM rigged as a pusher on the front of the truck that can be toggled on either by upfitter or automatically, which woulds keep the coolant around 190~195 no matter the situation..

oh, one more thing, fwiw: all those temperatures are related.. the trans oil exchanges through the radiator which is controlled by the engines stat(s).. the oil is cooled via coolant charged oil cooler, which is related to the coolants ability to exchange heat... if you can control your coolants temperature under any circumstance related to engine load, and at around the stat's rated temperature, and via a boss of an electric fan (I'm thinking 5kCFM at a minimum, w/ 7kCFM being optimum) ALL of these fluid temperatures will be a mitigated and managed concern, and all you'll have to worry about is filters..
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:05 AM
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thanks for your response , very insightful , i know they are not doing much but i can feel the heat getting stripped away, any heat leaving imo is good, also the lines were already running and all i had to do was put a cooler in, so it was a win win situation, any chance on lower stat for the coolant?
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:17 AM
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i don't know about a cooler rated 'stat, but an old 'rodder trick is to drill passages through the plate on ones that are available... it also serves purpose to allow quicker burps of the cooling system..

basic concept is to allow circulation of cool fluid no matter the positon of the plate, which keeps more cool fluid moving through more often that the 'stat can't regulate completely.

if you go this route, make certain and drill and file out any debris before installing it..

something else to keep in mind, to: hard parts of engines are made with an alloy of (insert fancy metalergical name here) , that protects the part for a long long time.. it is expected to operate within a certain range, though.. colder than expected, the coating actually wears and the part will prematurely fail.. not good.. hotter (within reason) is better for those hard parts.. also, the engine is designed to operate within a certain range- operating within that range will net better performance and economy.. you can custom tune that out of an engine by altering injection, but that is an expensive prospect..

It's just my opinion, and for whatever it's worth- you (an me, I plan on addressing this too), will be best served by figuring out how to maintain a tight hysteresis of temperatures.. like, a two degree window no matter the conditions.. if we can do that, we win- and our engines will last longer and operate cleaner.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:19 PM
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I did some looking into this, " DO NOT CHANGE TO ALOWER STAT" this will make the engine fail sooner that later. 10x as quick depending on how cold you run it.
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