Installing AirDog 150 tips, because the instructions are annoying.. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 12-03-2012, 05:30 AM
Troll Hunter
 

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Installing AirDog 150 tips, because the instructions are annoying..

howdy gents..

I'm certain this has been done before, and I'd likely be better served adding this to an existing thread about installing the AD150, but it was pretty old..

I'm only going to address a few of the things that weren't exactly tricky, but the instructions didn't cover or they left plenty of questions..

prepping and modifying the pump/bracket for install.. it simply won't fit unless you do.. I mounted the pump/filter and bracket as low on the plate as I could, and I mounted the single hole bracket on top.. this was an inside frame mount.. the inside bracket, with the single hole on the top had to be shaved on both sides of the hole (leaving enough to maintain strength of the plate) at a 45* angle.. this gives it about an eighth of an inch clearance between the brackets and the bed body..

to drop the tank, or not?... well, everyone clearly argues the tank has to drop, or the bed has to lift.. one person in another thread went so far as to say "anyone who says they can install a AD150 without dropping the tank or lifting the bed are lying".. well, they are flat wrong.. That said, I did in fact drop the tank just to be certain- but I am certain.. these are the two main things that I have to share about this:

the additional sipper tube does NOT need to be used.. the factory sipper is a duplicate diameter to the one provided in the kit, though it isn't as straight as the one provided. pic:


the factory tube, as part of the basket, is on the left- the tube provided is on the right.


a closer look at the same..

the factory basket has a filter screen that traps debris larger than, say, bb size.. it also has a nice little shroud that sits in a recession and rests nicely at the lowest point in the tank..

the factory tube is the same diameter- it sits in the lowest point- it does NOT interfere with the float assembly's movement.. because of these statements being absolutely factual, it should be clearly stated that the factory p/u basket sipper tube should be used instead of installing the sipper tube provided in the install kit.. which means you don't have to drop the tank...

I had an empty tank in front of me on the ground, I looked that rascal over closely.. I picked a place to tap into it to install the provided sipper tube, but hesitated because there is no place to tap the tank that would allow the p/u to sit as low in the tank as the factory tube, AND, there was no place reasonably close to the factory tube to install the provided p/u that would not have huge potential to interfere with the movement of the float.. folks talk a lot about running out of fuel with 1/8th left in the tank? yeah- I bet.. If they installed that stupid provided tube, I could see it, and would blame it on one of two, or both of these reasons: -the float is hung up due to the provided tube obstructing it- or -the tube is too high in the tank.. ..

furthermore, I stopped installing to reference something- the AD165, which can be amped up to supply 165 gallons of fuel an hour or fifteen over the rating of the 150, INSTRUCTS people to use the factory sipper.. so, it's okay for the 165 with higher volume of flow, but it's not for the 150? nope.. ain't buying it..

anyway- moving on..

I modified my fill tube for the additional return line by using the provided split.



I chose to do this as opposed to modifying the factory return line with a junction.. I want to keep the factory lines in place as much as possible so I can return it to it's OE state on the side of the road if I someday have to do so..


On the OE pump, I pulled the tank feed line off the hard connection, as well as the hard line heading toward the engine.. I used the provided fuel hose w/quick connects to bridge from the factory sipper tube to the AD150, and the provided line w/ quick connect from the AD150 to the engine feed.. I then took a piece of excess line I had, and looped the bottom of the OE pump in a closed circuit.. (about an 18" piece of fuel tube, one end connected to the input line of the factory pump, and the other on the output line of the factory pump; the bottom right and left tubes).. I didn't realize that pump was a common chamber for both the engines feed and the engines return.. Since I used the OE return w/o modification on that side, I HAD to make that little closed circuit section.

I wired it all in, using the white striped purple line to the pump to supply key on ignition trigger to the pump.. AD instructs you to fill the water separator tin- so I did.. I checked all connections, junctions, made certain the factory pump was electronically disabled, and turned the key to prime..

AD instructs folks to pull the return line off to verify it's prime, but guess what? this is pretty silly because you can HEAR the pump catching traction, and then you can also hear the return line pouring back in the tank.. Maybe you gotta listen close, but you can hear it just fine.. I did a full key cycle prime for a half a dozen times just like you would when changing a filter, but I likely only had to do it three or four max..

so far, no problems whatsoever.. I didn't do this expecting any noticeable affects, I did it to filter the fuel better.. that said, the throttle response is noticeably better..


back to not dropping the tank once again before I end this rant:

from the drivers side of the rear wheel well, you can reach in and take a picture of the baskets top.. which is what I did..



maybe if someone had tiny diameter arms they could reach in there.. the problem with that is arms that tiny likely don't have the strength to depress the quick releases..

even if you could reach the basket top from that side, you likely couldn't reach the fill tube or the vent tube at the back of the tank from that side either...

you CAN reach the filler tube and vent from the BACK of the tank.. you gotta feel more than see.. you can reach the basket quick connects from the passenger side of the tank- but again, you gotta feel more than see.. this is where a camera (like on your phone) helps.. I took pictures where I couldn't fit my head.. worked by feel.. and fixed her right up..

this job can, and in my opinion should, be done without dropping the tank.
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  #2  
Old 12-03-2012, 06:43 AM
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Good job on the install! So did you notice any difference? I know i didnt with my airdog. I just did it for better filtration/water seperation and ease of filter changes. IF you are interested i can give you some filter numbers that i have researched that are better than the airdog filter. 2 micron absolute. I am sure they will work on the 150 also.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:56 AM
Troll Hunter
 

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nah- nothing added to performance that my delicate levi's can detect, but it seems a little snappier on the response when I tap the skinny pedal..

I appreciate the offer for p/n's, and I'll absolutely take you up on it.. I bought three full sets of filters from ptp when I purchased the dog, though.. If they are a lot better- I'm all about them.. I did it for the same reason you did- I want clean fuel in that engine because I want this thing to last me a looooong time.

I should also add to the first post that when mounting the air dog, i had a little trouble because my rig is 4wd, and has the off road package (skid plates).. this made locating the mount a little challenging, and caused me to have to modify it slightly.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:59 AM
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Ok so the filter is a donaldson P551315. It is a direct replacement but its a 2 micron absolute. The water seperator is a baldwin BF1275. I am running both of these filters on my airdog.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:33 AM
Troll Hunter
 

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thank you, sir.. I've jotted them down and will be looking for them soon.. much appreciated!
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  #6  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:41 AM
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No problem bud
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