5" Diamon Eye downpipe back installation - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 11-24-2012, 08:20 PM
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5" Diamon Eye downpipe back installation

Does anybody have any better directions on how to install the system other than what is provided. I'm not sure which pipe to cut and how much, obviously it probably varies and I will have to be under the truck to know. But are their any other write-ups on the install.

Even removing the stock exhaust is giving me anxiety as I'm not exactly a gear head. I will be employing the assistance of my brother who has basic knowledge but we're both still a little worried we're gonna mess up either the removal or installation of the parts.

Any help would be great!

*what are the minimum tools needed?
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:37 PM
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There are a ton of threads on here about doing a DP back (mine should get in this coming week). You shouldn't have to cut anything unless you are also replacing the DP. I have read a few different ways to do it, I'll see if I can dig up some links.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:42 PM
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I keep hearing that the new piping needs to be cut, and im not sure if thats on a case by case basis or what. Any hlep would be appreciated, I'm at work right now so im limited on my internet searching abilities.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:48 AM
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You shouldnt have to cut anything. Depending on your trucks configuration (ex cab short bed, crew cab short bed, ex long bed, crew long bed) will determine what pipes you will use.

The exhaust is easy to put on. Work from the back going forward when taking off the stock exhaust. disconnect all of your sensors and clamps. Start pulling the exhaust part. The tail pipe section and mid section may not come appart really easy, but a nice small sledge hammer or kicking it with your boot should make it come apart. To get the tail section out you will probably need to jack up the rear end of the truck using the reciever hitch to get enough clearance to push the tail section out the back. if that doesn work, disconnect the shock on that side and you will have enough room.

Unbolt the stocker from the DP and start pulling the DPF and Cat out twords the rear of the truck. This is where a second set of hands is nice.

Install the new exhaust from DP going to the back of the truck. fit everything together and clamp it down loose until you have it all in place. Once in place and your fitment is good start clamping it all down for good.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:12 AM
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I usually have to cut my exhaust because my truck is a reg cab and the kits I have bought weren't made for a regular cab. Exhaust is easy to put on. I remove the stock tailpipe first and the mess with the dpf. Easiest way to get to the top bolt on the down pipe flange is a 13mm swivel socket with about a 5-6" extension. Should be able to get it real easy, keep in mind that flange has the nuts welded on the other side so you only have to worry about the bolts. Putting the aftermarket exhaust on is easy. Lay the piping out on the ground to figure out what fits your truck to see if you have to cut. If you can't figure it out perfectly you will prolly have to make a cut. Hang the mid pipe that connects to the down pipe, then hang the tail pipe and muffler or muffler delete pipe. Now you should have a gap in between them. Find the piece that fits this game or make a cut to get it to fit. Then tighten all your clamps at the end keep in mind you don't have to crank the clamps down really hard. It just bends the piping and creates leaks. So just snug them up and give em a few more turns. Then when you drive it and you see any soot coming out if any joints, give that clamp a few more turns that way you won't bend the piping up so you can take it apart without cutting it if something happens in the future.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcloud2k View Post
You shouldnt have to cut anything. Depending on your trucks configuration (ex cab short bed, crew cab short bed, ex long bed, crew long bed) will determine what pipes you will use.
I have a CC SB are you saying i may not use all the pipes? I thought everything matched up but you may have to cut some pipe depending on the size of the truck. I'm sure once I get into it this will be much easier than I'm thinking, but dwelling on it I think I'm making it a bigger deal than it is. Thanks everyone for the help so far!
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Code3F250 View Post
I have a CC SB are you saying i may not use all the pipes? I thought everything matched up but you may have to cut some pipe depending on the size of the truck. I'm sure once I get into it this will be much easier than I'm thinking, but dwelling on it I think I'm making it a bigger deal than it is. Thanks everyone for the help so far!
Right. Depending on the kit you may have a section you don't use. But you may not because yours is one of the longer wheel bases. It isn't like a extended cab short bed or reg cab long bed.
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:29 PM
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Do yourself a favor and unbolt the vibration isolators/hangers from the frame.. there are three bolts each on those.. do this AFTER this:

Unbolt the collector plate and let it hang.. separate the mid pipe behind the dpf.. you may need to beat on it with a mallet.. it is a keyed fitting.. hit it on one side until it moves, then the other.. this will likely be the toughest part of removal..

Disconnect all the sensors at the connector.. leave sensors in exhaust..

Push the tail pipe backwards, pushing bayonets out of hangers/ vibration isolators.. when it drops down, it is hella easier to pull FORWARD over the axle than it is to pull out the back..

NOW unscrew hangers from frame.. the threads will bite frame and not allow dpf to drop.. when you're done, lie under dpf like you're about to bench press it, because you are.. get in position, move pipes toward back of truck, clearing the collector from the braces, and rest back pipe on ground.. rest front on ground.. you're done with removal..

Pull hangers off pipe and reinstall them on truck..

Install starting at collector and delete pipe.. don't tighten the bolts, just get them started.. hang them off of the hangers, which means you'll hafta twist them some to get them aligned.

Hang tailpipe piece..

Measure the distance from the delete pipe to the tail pipe, and add the depth of the flare.. I think diamond eye flares are 3" deep, so it should be the length in between the pipes plus six inches.. cut the mid pipe to that length.. I used a chop miter saw.. it took about four seconds..

Put the clamps on the pipes, slip them all together.. bolt them down, tighten the collector bolts.. you're floggin done.. this entire job won't take you an hour if you take your time.. its simple..

Caveat: TUNE tour truck first.. make sure you don't have programming problems before you start, or you'll be mighty pissed when you're down for a business day waiting for your tuning company to respond, or you gotta reverse course and reinstall the factory exhaust.. my h&s kept giving me an unknown part fault and wouldn't load.. after wiping the memory card and updating "entire card" it hasn't burped once..

Don't freak yourself out my man, this is way too easy to do, and the results are phenomenal..
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:34 PM
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I didn't have to unbolt the hanger brackets.. I just hosed the down with wd40 tht way I could slide the hanger in and out easily. I had to some cutting on my flo pro exhaust to fit correctly.. I have a crew cab long bed. Wasn't much cutting tho.


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Old 11-25-2012, 04:36 PM
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I used a sledge hammer short handle, 2x4, and alot of wd40 and a case of elbow grease, took me about 1.5 hr to get it all off by myself. I jacked up the rear of the truck to help me slide out the exhaust after I got it disconnected after the dpf.


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