diamond eye dpf/cat delete pipe fitment issues - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:24 PM
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diamond eye dpf/cat delete pipe fitment issues

Has anyone had any fitment issues with the Diamond Eye dpf/cat delete pipe? I bought the pipe a couple weeks ago from PTP and finally got around to working on the truck today because I was out of the country. Got the dpf/cat assembly off, put the first part of the diamond eye pipe on the downpipe only to find that the nuts that they included to bolt to the stock downpipe bolts seem to be the wrong nuts as they seem to thread on about half way and that is about it.

I also had a hell of a time getting the second part of the pipe to fit into the stock tail pipe. It seemed like a very tight fit if it would go in at all, and finally I gave up and upon comparing it to the exit pipe of the dpf, it looks like it is slightly bigger and that's why it won't fit.

Any one else have any similar issues or problems?
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:43 AM
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I had an issue on mine as well. When I was joining the dpf delete pipe and the one that connects to the downpipe there was a fitment issue, they were both pretty much the same size. I tried everything and everything in our shop to try and force it to go but ended having to take it to a muffler shop to have them expand the end to make them fit.
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:35 PM
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Well, got the dpf/doc delete pipe on finally. I spoke with PTP this morning and they advised me that I would have to "flare" the stock tail pipe open a little more since it had shrunk due to being clamped all this time. Needless to say, I "flared" it open a bit more with a pipe wrench and still couldn't get it on, so I ended up taking it to an exhaust shop and they "flared" it open and really hammered the thing on. Had I taken the removable pipe that goes between the dpf and the tail pipe off and hammered the dpf delete pipe on while it was off the truck and maybe in the garage, it may have been doable, but in all honesty I must have just spaced it at the time. One of those could've, should've, would've moments, but then again had I known the exhaust shop would have dropped the dpf/doc and installed the pipe for $75 I would have gladely paid them to do the whole job.

Either way, I loaded up the truck with the H&S on the "Mild" tune with "Stock Power" and needless to say I was pleasantly surprised. The truck is like a whole new animal, gone is the sluggishness, especially from a stop. It smokes a little bit mainly just from a stop, but damn, I think this is how the truck should've come from the factory. I bought this truck back in 2009, and the only regret I can say now is that I waited this long to tune it because I didn't want to void the warranty.

I haven't tried any of the higher power tunes, as I don't really want to start breaking expensive parts like head gaskets and transmissions, plus I have race bikes for going fast at the track, and as much as I hate to say it I'm not sure if even tuned this thing will be competitive with them. lol.

So, long story short, if you are thinking about doing the delete and tune, do it. You won't be disappointed. The only thing I might consider is looking into a different brand of delete pipe. I'm not saying a different brand of pipe would not have these issues since I have no experience with other brands, but it may be something to consider to possibly make your life easier.

Also, if you happen to find a shop in not the best area of town that is willing to do the work, the amount that they charge may be well worth it if you are like me and have to do everything on your back in the driveway.

Hope all this helps
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:22 AM
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I've installed a bunch of these. Just did one yesterday.

I've never had a problem w/ the nuts being the wrong thread. As for getting the tail section to slide over the end of the delete pipe. Take a ball peen and flare out the splits slightly. Also, take a bastard file and put a slight bevel on the end of the pipe.

get the front flange tight, then slide the back part of the delete pipe back to where it's just barely set into the factory tail section.

then install and tighten the saddle clamp in the middle of the delete pipe.

then take a BFH and smack the back of the muffler/hangers to get the tail section to slide over the delete pipe.

They're a bit of a pain, but I've gotten to where I can knock them out start to finish in about 45min
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:02 AM
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I am sorry to hear you had problems with the pipes. We have seen this with all brands of delete pipes though, sometimes I think it is more of a variation with the stock pipes and corrosion than anything. Getting the pipe to feed into the stock exhaust can be VERY tight, other times it is loose. We have checked the OD on delete pipes, all are very close in size. Im not sure about the nut issue you were having though, I havent heard that before. Could the threads on the bolt have been boogered up?
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:17 AM
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I've never had the OEM pipe slide onto the delete pipe easily. the delete pipes are slightly larger OD and the OEM stuff tapers slightly at the end.

it's the same way on the dodge delete pipes

but a quick bevel on the lip of the delete pipe and using a hammer to flare out the splits slightly and it goes quickly. just have to beat on the back of the muffler/hangers
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:50 PM
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Yeah I kind of figured there would be some fitting / tweaking required, I guess the main thing is I just ran out of time and got sick of crawling around on the floor under the truck. I must have just gotten a stock tail pipe that was really tight as opposed to really loose.

As far as the nuts go, I can guarantee that they were the wrong nuts because the bolts still threaded into the welded on nuts on the oem exhaust just fine.

But no worries, any b!tches, moans, and complaints were quickly forgotten the first time I started the truck up and drove it.

Now, I'm still having trouble figuring this out, so maybe one of you can explain this to me. What is the difference between "Easy, mild, and hot damn" tunes besides power levels? Is that the only difference? I'm currently on "mild" and "stock power". Do you think with stock intake and just this delete pipe I could bump it up to "80" or "120" safely?
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:23 PM
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Irregularities happen all the time with exhaust system, nothing a 15 min trip and $10 at the muffler shop won't fix!

On to your questions regarding the different tune levels (i'm assuming you have the MiniMax, all I saw was H&S mentioned). Mild and Hot Damn tunes you have transmission adjustability as well, in terms of torque converter lockup and shift points. You shouldnt have any issue bumping up the power levels, however once you start getting on it and having those turbos boost up in the higher numbers, you'll start noticing you'll need the intake and the filter minder may be triggered. Since you've spent the money on the rest of the goodies, you should just go ahead and pull the trigger on the intake-turbos needs to breathe both ways.

Last edited by kosmo04; 10-17-2012 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:39 PM
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I do have the mini maxx. So basically there is no difference between "Mild" and "Hot Damn" except for power levels and you can tune the transmission? I'm already pretty impressed with just stock power and dpf off. I saw on H&S's website they say they recommend an aftermarket intake after 80 hp, so I may just look into it since an oem air filter is like $100 anyway (at least that's what the dealer quoted me), might as well get an S&B or something.

Also, is the air filter something that would have to be taken off if there are smog checks around here?
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:02 AM
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Correct. Thats exactly why they recommend an aftermarket intake after 80hp, the stock setup just can't keep up with the amount of air the turbos need. I picked my S&B up barely used with both filters for $100, or buy one new for about $275.

I don't think the intake would be the issue with the smog check, the DPF delete would be though.
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