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6.4L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 7 Old 04-12-2011, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Simple Mini Max

How much (up to) weight can I safely pull on the Dam setting? And/or do I need to drop down to the wild or mild setting. Thanks.

2008 F350 King Ranch 4x4 CC/LB SWD 6.4-job 3 (4" FabTech/S&B,H&S,deletesw/4" to 5"Banks)

2008 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC/SB SWD 6.4-job 1 (6" lift/no mods)denied warranty for blown motor-FMC can SUK IT on this one!.

2005 F350 KR 4x4 CC/LB DWR 6.0-(2" leveling kit/Edge/5" exhaust)-sold

2002 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC/LB SWD 7.3 (Chipped)-sold

2000 Excursion LTD Edition 4x4 7.3 (6" lift/Chipped w/3 gauge set/5" exhaust)-sold

1999 F250 XLT 4x4 CC/LB SWD 7.3 (Chipped)-still own
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post #2 of 7 Old 04-12-2011, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Meant Simple Mini Max Question....

2008 F350 King Ranch 4x4 CC/LB SWD 6.4-job 3 (4" FabTech/S&B,H&S,deletesw/4" to 5"Banks)

2008 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC/SB SWD 6.4-job 1 (6" lift/no mods)denied warranty for blown motor-FMC can SUK IT on this one!.

2005 F350 KR 4x4 CC/LB DWR 6.0-(2" leveling kit/Edge/5" exhaust)-sold

2002 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC/LB SWD 7.3 (Chipped)-sold

2000 Excursion LTD Edition 4x4 7.3 (6" lift/Chipped w/3 gauge set/5" exhaust)-sold

1999 F250 XLT 4x4 CC/LB SWD 7.3 (Chipped)-still own
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post #3 of 7 Old 04-13-2011, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hookset View Post
How much (up to) weight can I safely pull on the Dam setting? And/or do I need to drop down to the wild or mild setting. Thanks.
Simple question, not so simple answer.

Short answer is up to the CGVWR for your truck.

Long answer is much more complicated.

Heat is your main issue.
To make power you add more fuel, more fuel gives you more heat in the motor and exahust. Monitor this with the EGT gauge on the MM. Try to keep EGT's under 1300 degrees.

Gearing is also a prime concern, too high a gearset ( this includes tall tires) will put an increased load on the driveline w/o adding the trailer weight. Everything has to work harder which equals making more heat, heat is the #1 enemy of your Transmission and torque converter. Beat the fluid up too much and it will burn along with the components of both the Torque Converter and transmission.

How you drive is a big factor, drive like you stole it with 15K behind you and you will not be driving for long without either a major breakdown or a wreck.

The vehicle brakes if overused can warp the rotors in just one hard stop. ( Yes I did this to a 2004 F350 with 14K 5th wheel behind it)

Long story short:
More power doesn't equal more payload. More power does requirea different driving style, adjust accordingly, slow on the power and slow off works real well and do not be in a hurry! Watch the traffic ahead and pedict what is going to happen and what your response will be. Watch EGT like a hawk.

Truck was designed to operate at CGVW safely (Combined Gorss Vehicle Weight Rating) yes you can tow more but adjust accordingly. Add tall tires w/o changing greaing the safety factor declines as well as performance and longevity.

Last tidbit, the turbo is the furthest from the oil pan of any oil passage in the motor, if you have been running hard high egt's and boost, you will need to allow the engine to cool down before shut down, this mean idling for a few minutes (5 or so) to allow the turbo to cool and thus not cooking the oil left inthe bearing passages. If this oil cooks it turns to basicly sand and will kill the bushing/bearing is short order.

Hope this answers your question.

2008 F450 King Ranch 4X4
H&S Tunes
5" down pipe back exahust
4.30 L/S gears
AFE CAI
265/70R19.5 Michelins
Pure performance 4 link front suspension
Kelderman Air-Ride
FASS fuel filter
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Train Horns under the front bumper
2013 Radio/Nav/sync upgrade


494Rwhp/975ftlbs......


Last edited by MD05; 04-13-2011 at 09:52 AM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 04-13-2011, 09:11 AM
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Just keep an eye on the pyro. Theres too many other things to factor in so you cant just put a weight limit on it.



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post #5 of 7 Old 04-13-2011, 08:04 PM
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The guy I spoke to at HS told me they did not suggest towing with anything other than stock since they didn't test any tune while towing.
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post #6 of 7 Old 04-13-2011, 08:33 PM
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Because of government rules and regulations, our techs are not allowed to speak on towing capability. If you are running with the emissions removed, these products are designed for off road use only. Stepping into that gray area and speaking of towing is not worth losing the entire company, and we are forced to strictly regulate what the guys on the phone converse about. We have many many people actually get angry because we will not recommend what they should do. Please understand that we want to be here to provide products and services for many years to come. We love what we do and will do anything we can to continue it!

For emissions Present tuning, I would love to give a little insight. You can tow on whatever tune you want! Keep in mind, that the capabilities of a tune mean nothing, you are the final controlling factor in how your truck performs. Whether your truck is set to 600hp or 300hp, your trailer requires the same amount of energy and work to move it down the road at XX speed (you will likely NEVER see the peak HP range). Use your right foot to regulate the power. If you are getting better economy gains on a certain level VS stock, try that level towing as well and you will likely see gains there as well. Be smart with what you tow and watch your temperatures, and there is no reason you can't tow on any power level you want. This all applies to a relatively stock configured truck in general. There are circumstances that will limit what levels you can tow on, but for 95% of our customers this will never be the case.
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post #7 of 7 Old 04-13-2011, 08:44 PM
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Thank you for clarifying. H&S tuned 6.4 vehicles drive amazing btw.
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