Nate, UDAMAN! Sorry for the thread length folks...
Installed my H&S Mini Maxx, AFE intake and Flo-Pro DOC/DPF delete (the Flo-Pro was a GREAT recommendation Nate!). My son did the intake while I did the H&S mount and wiring along with putting a new Edge tuner on his Dodge 3500 (tuner went bad and Edge replaced it for free, otherwise I would have MADE him buy a new one from Nate). Anyway, we tag teamed the exhaust.
First, the lessons learned.
- The Flo-Pro DOC/DPF pipes were slightly longer than the CAT/DPF so we had to trim about 1 inch off the beveled portion closest to the muffler. Once you drop the CAT/DPF, lay the replacement pipes beside it and compare the two. Would have saved us an easy 2 hours.
- Someone had suggested this before but it cannot be stated enough. Drop the complete hanger brackets with the CAT/DPF. You will only need to put one back anyway if you get a setup like I did.
- The DOC/DPF comes off without taking the muffler and tail pipe off their hangers but pull it off the hangers and simply let it lay loose anyway. It is almost impossible to put things back together if you don't
- Assemble the exhaust from front to back. This is kind of common sense but in the "heat of the moment", one always doesn't follow their common sense.
- If the section of pipe closest to the muffler doesn't want to slip into the factory pipe, take the small section off the front of muffler and assemble the two, somewhere besides under the truck. The factory sections will go back together fairly easily.
Notice, there were no lessons learned for the intake or tuner. Went on flawlessly.
The results... This is really hard to convey. I grew up in the mid to late 70s so I have driven some fast vehicles. Until 5:32PM CST, a Plymouth GTX with a 440 Super Commando paired with a six-pack was the fastest. With the tuner on "Hot", this 6.4L is flat out dangerous. The throttle is so touchy, I have no idea how people that run it daily control it. It will literally smoke the tires almost completely through 1st, bark the tires consistantly in the shift to 2nd and sometimes in the shift to 3rd. That GTX would pop-a-wheely and I am convienced, if it were not an 8000lb vehicle this F250 could as well.
One last item folks need to consider when struggling with whether to tune their vehicle or not. Before tuning, the vehicle had enough power and was extremely smooth. It was not until after tuning that I realized that it actually seemed it had a "cold", figuratively of course. Once tuned, even on "No Power", the vehicle now seems like it is literally sliding down the road, effortlessly. I have no doubt that treated correctly, it will "slide" for many more miles than it would have.
Enough about the power, everyone knows how these vehicles are so let's get down to the main objective, MPG! Before tuning, checked 3 tanks with a Garmin GPS so none of this "hand" calculation or lie-o-meter. The results can't be second guessed. All 3 were taken after the first oil change at 5033 miles.
- Tank 1: 13.8 MPG, moderate driving, a few (< 6) "jack-rabbit" starts
- Tank 2: 14.2 MPG, easy driving, no "jack-rabbit" starts
- Tank 3: 13.4 MPG, moderate driving, more (~12) "jack-rabbit" starts
I will post the first tank after tuning in this thread sometime next week. Just depends on how many 120 mile trips per day it can go.