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| 6.4L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you? |
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What's the Trick to easy DOC/DPF swap
A couple of weeks ago I had to pull my DPF Delete off and put back on the DOC /DPF. This nightmare took me about 4 hours to do and has left me with a really sour taste in my mouth. What are the tricks to doing this efficiently?
Here are the problems I ran into : Rusted over bolts, I used WD40 but that didn't help break them very well DPF back exhaust was a pain to get on the back of the DPF and off of the delete Getting the flange off/on the Downpipe was painful just general annoyance laying on my back for hours. Would I be better putting it up on blocks? It was so painfull I don't even want to put the delete back on even though i love the power. |
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Try "knocker loose" by crc. Use a small ratchet strap to pull things apart and back together. A good creeper with headpad, a fan to blow the crap out of your eyes and to keep you cool. I am due tto put mine back on after service was done- I got a six of BL for the afterparty. Drive it up on a couple of 2 x 6's ,2-3" helps alot.
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DOC/DPF
Does anyone know of a video or pics of the swap? I assume the 3 EGT probes can be transferred to the delete pipe prior to installing the pipe? Does anti-seize co,pound work on these sensors?
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Yeah, I think the swap just sucks no matter how you slice it. Unless you have a grease rack, its a pain. My truck is on 37's so it was a good distance off the ground. And yes, I agree that ratchet straps are your best friends. I think I was using 4 of them at one time. Pulling everything together and cradleling it up at the same time. I think it took me 5 hours to do my delete. Down side of ratchet straps is that you're always rolling over the loose tails with the creeper, getting them tangled in your wheels...I think if I have to put the dpf-doc back on, I'll try to do it as one unit. Splitting the dpf and doc apart was sort of a pain not to mention messy. And as far as the sensors go, give em hell... I actually had to use vise grips on one of mine along with a propane torch to heat the bung, and it still works (although its all rounded off now...) I think in theory, if you don't break the wires inside the metal shroud tube, it should still work. Its just a simple thermocouple I think- two similar metals as leads, which create a measureable (low) voltage when heated... ( I used to build my own thermocouples for a lab I worked in...)
Exhaust work in general always sucks in my opinion, but its always gratifying when you turn the key.... And I changed mine without BEER! How bad does that suck?! |
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Any videos or pics of doing the DOC and DPF as one unit?
Thanks... |
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It's the same process just further up. Crawl under the truck and follow the pipe towards the motor
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I still dont see what the deal is for people to take such a long time with a DPF/DOC delete. I did mine with a buddy, and it wastaken apart (mounts, sensors unplugged, DP unbolted, all clamps undone), removed, and delete pipe installed within 20 minutes. Maybe you arent using the right tools, I dont know. it isnt that tough though. I did mine, in the driveway, stock hieght, in literally 20 to 30 minutes max.
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makes it alot easier to have it up on jackstands and a helper. Also take the rear tire off . i seperated my pipe at the downpipe and right before the resonator , it helped to take a piece of 2x4 and a hammer and tap the resonator to seperate the pipe at that joint and then fish the rear section up and around the axle and spare tire .
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Takes me about 30 minutes by myself on my fx4 but it does sit a lot higher than a standard xlt. Long pry bars and a rubber mallet can be your best friend.
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