THIRD RADIATOR - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.4L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you?

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post #1 of 11 Old 05-03-2010, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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THIRD RADIATOR

This is the third radiator my truck eats I want to get an all aluminum radiator but I cant find anyone that makes one. Can anyone lead me in the right direction. Does anyone have a performance radiator in there truck. Any info could help.

Thanks guys
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-03-2010, 08:12 PM
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Spearco is the best one on the market!

Air Delivery

Jeff Dodd
spartan_jeff12@yahoo.com

2012 Ford F-250 Lariat CC/SB

Mods - Spartan tuned via laptop, 4" AFE stainless exhaust system, 2.5" PMF BMC leveling spacers, 3" PMF lift blocks, Fox Racing 2.0 shocks, Recon smoked mirror & cab lights
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-03-2010, 08:16 PM
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I believe there was a TSB that addressed repeat failures of the radiator on a 6.4l and said the problem could be result of the thermostats.

TSB
09-23-1 6.4L DIESEL ENGINES - REPEAT RADIATOR LEAK - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 9/14/2009

Publication Date: November 9, 2009

FORD: 2008-2010 F-Super Duty


ISSUE:
Some 2008-2010 F-Super Duty vehicles built on or before 9/14/2009 and equipped with a 6.4L diesel engine may exhibit repeat radiator leaks due to malfunctioning (hyper-extended) high temperature thermostats.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Verify the coolant leak is from the radiator, refer to pin point test (PPT) A found in the Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-03.
Verify the venturi tee is installed.
If installed, confirm it is installed correctly (note - orientation direction on part). Refer to applicable Field Service Action (FSA) for vehicle built on or before 5/15/2008.
If not installed, install per applicable FSA on vehicles built on or before 5/15/2008.
Prepare the vehicle for a test drive.
If the coolant leak at the radiator is large enough to cause an unsafe test drive or potential for engine/vehicle damage, proceed to Step 5.
Before driving the vehicle confirm the coolant level is at minimum level or above in the degas bottle. If required add 50/50 mix to coolant bottle.
Test Drive - use an Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) or equivalent and monitor engine oil temperature (EOT) and engine coolant temperature (ECT) parameter identifiers (PIDS).
With EOT at 195 F (91 C) drive on the highway unloaded at 55-70 MPH (89-113 Km/h) constant speed to observe EOT and ECT temp.
Test results/next steps:
If EOT is less than 8 F (4.4 C) higher than ECT, and the coolant temp fluctuates roughly 5 F (2.7 C) - the thermostats are okay and do not need to be replaced. Replace just the radiator. Refer to WSM, Section 303-03 (Engine Cooling).
If EOT exceeds ECT by greater than 8 F (4.4 C) or if the ECT readings fluctuate 10 to 12 F (5.55-6.66 C) roughly every 30 seconds - replace both thermostats and radiator. Refer to WSM, Section 303-03 (Engine Cooling).
If vehicle is not drivable and the coolant leak is found to be from the radiator, remove and replace both thermostats and radiator. Refer to WSM, Section 303-03 for both radiator and thermostat removal procedure and approved cooling system draining, filling and bleeding procedures.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
8C3Z-8575-D Thermostat Assembly
8C3Z-8009-B Radiator Assembly


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
092301A 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L: Pressure Test Cooling System, Road Test, Monitor PIDS, Replace The Radiator (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.0 Hrs.
092301B 2008-2010 F-Super Duty 6.4L: Pressure Test Cooling System, Road Test, Monitor PIDS, Replace The Radiator, And Thermostats (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.8 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
8575 42
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-03-2010, 08:24 PM
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This is very interesting, I am on my 5th radiator, and I think my truck runs pretty dang hot. Pulling hard it can get up to 222 deg., and the factory gauge never moves!!!! I wonder if I can get my dealer to change out my thermostat with out having to put my DPF back on? I think I will ask them, they know I did a DPF delete and don't seem to care. What kind of temps are you other guys seeing on your trucks??

Fletcher
'90 F250 Supercab IDI 7.3
Banks Sidewinder Turbo
4'' straight pipe
116,000 miles

'94 F250 single cab IDI Factory Turbo 7.3
3'' banks down pipe
Banks pyrometer
3 1/2'' straight pipe
K&N Air filter
Hypermax air intake
Hydrogen Generator
Pump turned up
Timing advanced
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'89 F250 4x4 supercab 7.3 IDI
4'' exhaust
pump turned way up!!!
297,000 miles
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-03-2010, 08:30 PM
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I never see above 200 degrees no matter how hard I run it. I don't tow though. That is running the piss out of it with the 275, 310, and 350 tunes though.

Jeff Dodd
spartan_jeff12@yahoo.com

2012 Ford F-250 Lariat CC/SB

Mods - Spartan tuned via laptop, 4" AFE stainless exhaust system, 2.5" PMF BMC leveling spacers, 3" PMF lift blocks, Fox Racing 2.0 shocks, Recon smoked mirror & cab lights
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post #6 of 11 Old 05-03-2010, 09:11 PM
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I have seen 200-205 when towing in the mountains.

-2008 6.4l FX4 CC
-2010 F150 4X4 CC
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post #7 of 11 Old 05-04-2010, 09:00 AM
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I've hit 225 when towing in mountains.

08 F250 CC, 4x4, Blue/Pueblo Gold, 3.73, S & B CAI, 5" Magnaflo downpipe back, Spartan TCM 275 & 310 KEM 345 (SCT - Sold) Mickey Thompson 35 12.5 20's

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post #8 of 11 Old 05-04-2010, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08stroker250 View Post
Spearco is the best one on the market!

Air Delivery
Radiator

08 ECSB 6.4
MPD, GOGO, No Limit, Rudys, ARP, PMF, Innovative, AFE, Recon, Fuel, Nitto, Bilstein
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-04-2010, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhaddox View Post
Radiator
Im going take the truck in and see if they will look at the thermostat. if not im just going to drop a bad *** all aluminum radiator!!!!!
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-09-2011, 01:17 PM
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Cool

The reason it is breaking repeatedly is that the radiator is mounted to the frame and the body and the frame and body flex which cracks the radiator. The only fix I know of is too make the radiator mounts loose so that the radiator has some movement.
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