Today, I did the DPF/Cat delete and thought I'd post my experience. I followed Powerstroker67's steps (Spartan Installation Advice
) with a few exceptions. For one, I unplugged my EGT sensors and dropped the pipe as opposed to removing them then dropping the pipe. Also, I purchased two new EGT sensors (part #8C3Z-12B591-D) and used them in the middle and rear position. For the front sensor, I reused the one in the stock system. Here are my tools, ready to go:
Got the creeper, new sensors, flare nut wrenches, anti-sieze (used heavily), ratchet straps, PB Blaster, and Powerstroker's delete pipe (and the Michelob, of course). What's not shown here are the 13mm and 15mm deep sockets that I stopped in the middle of the job to go buy. I highly recommend getting them before-hand. Normal sockets won't work. Also not shown is the univeral joint for the socket wrench which is extremely necessary for getting to the upper bolt on the flange to the down-pipe.
In preparation, I sprayed everything I was going to take loose every night for three days with PB Blaster. I had started with Liquid Wrench for about a week, but when I crawled under the truck to test one of the EGT sensors, it still wouldn't budge. So I switched to the PB Blaster three days before doing the job. On the day of the job, the first thing I did was unplug all three EGT sensors. Then I removed the 15mm bolt holding the pressure sensor bracket on and removed the pressure sensor. Then, I removed the nuts off of the three hangars (8 in all). Before I went any further, I used a ratchet strap to support the DPF. Then, I loosened the clamp holding the DPF pipe to the rear exhaust system. I had forgotten to PB Blast this one, so I had so problems with it. Once that was loose, I used another ratchet strap around the muffler to pull the rear exhaust pipe from the DPF pipe and moved it out of the way. The last part of the removal was taking the two bolts out on the flange to the down-pipe. The upper one is extremely hard to get to. I ended up using a 6" and 3" extension and the universal joint on my socket wrench. Once this is loose, I tried to very slowly lower the DPF by loosening the ratchet strap that was holding it up. #%@$, that thing is heavy! Make sure you don't have a finger or leg or head or something up under it when you're lowering it. I dragged the DPF/Cat assembly out from under the truck, set it on the creeper, and rolled it into the garage. Here's a pic of it next to Powerstroker's delete pipe:
Anyone know what the black cylinder toward the front is? Also, I thought it'd be cool to post a shot of the inside of the DPF for those who haven't seen it. This is a shot down the pipe from the rear:
That looks restrictive as hell. No wonder it's an mpg-killer.
Installing the delete pipe was much easier than taking the stock system out. I slid it above one of the cross braces and used a ratchet strap to set the approximate height in the rear. I barely started the two bolts on the downpipe flange. Then, I attached the delete pipe to the rear exhaust system. I used a ratchet strap to pull the muffler forward this time to slide the end of the delete pipe in far enough. You have to wiggle the joint up and down while pulling with the ratchet strap. Once it's in far enough, I tightened the clamp. Then I tightened up on the two bolts on the downpipe flange. I then attached the pressure sensor bracket to the delete pipe and slid the pressure sensor hose back onto the nipple. Finally, I plugged the three EGT sensors in. The finished product looks like this:
While I was running to the parts store to get the deep sockets, I installed the Spartan 210 dpf-off tune:
And that's pretty much it. This took me about three hours. However, I took many breaks, stopped to take pictures, and had one parts store/beer run. So it was probably 1.5-2 hours of actual work.