HOW DO U REMOVE DASH 2008 F350 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 40 Old 09-20-2011, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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HOW DO U REMOVE DASH 2008 F350

YES I NEED TO TAKE OUT THE HOLE DASH I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE HEATER VENTS ....THERE IS SOMETHING STUCK IN MY DEFOST VENT NEED TO PULL DASH ..............I STARTED TO DO IT AND THEN GAVE UP IT LOOKED LIKE THERE WAS BOLTS BY THE FIREWALL THAT I CANT GET AT ANY HELP WOULD BE GOOD THANKS 2008 F350

2008 F350 fx4
S&B intake
8" fab tech
pro comp trac bars
fab tech radias arms
5" turbo back
7" stack
coolant filter
air dog 2
ARP STUDS
EGR delete
CCV filter
Street Diesel big intake and cooler pipe
H&S MINI MAXX 300 tunne
2 10" kicker subs
ALPINE NAV
HID head and fog lights
RECON lights all around
AMP POWER STEPS
20x12 FUEL NUTZ Wheels 38x15.5 20 Mtz
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post #2 of 40 Old 10-09-2011, 05:45 PM
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did you ever figure this out??? i would like to know just for future reference, if you did please share.

Casey

08' F-350 King Ranch 4x4 CCSB
H&S Mini Maxx 300 HD
5" Straight Pipe to 7" rolled tip
AFE S2 PDS
ARP Head Studs
FloPro EGR Delete with Intake Elbow
FloPro CAC pipe
Rebuilt beefed up OEM Up pipes
Deisel Site Coolant Filter
Firestone RideRite Airbags
Leveled
35X12.50R20 ProComp Xtreme A/T
Ranch Hand Front and Rear Replacement Bumpers

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post #3 of 40 Old 10-10-2011, 04:15 AM
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I also would like to know.

Babe The Blue OX



2008 Ford F-450, TumbleWeed Headache Rack, B&W Gooseneck, 15% tinted windows, 120 Gal Transfer tank, Cobra 29 LX CB, 1200 watt converter, PIAA lights, Sinister goodies, S&B Intake and lots of running lights.

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Thanks. I'll give er a good wackin in the morning.
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post #4 of 40 Old 10-10-2011, 03:09 PM
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I have annoying squeak behind passenger dash. I would love to know also
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post #5 of 40 Old 10-13-2011, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThirdCoastStroker View Post
did you ever figure this out??? i would like to know just for future reference, if you did please share.
nope never found out yet ....was looking at ford shop books but they want big bucks for them and they could not tell me witch book i would need lol
can not find any help on the web yet

2008 F350 fx4
S&B intake
8" fab tech
pro comp trac bars
fab tech radias arms
5" turbo back
7" stack
coolant filter
air dog 2
ARP STUDS
EGR delete
CCV filter
Street Diesel big intake and cooler pipe
H&S MINI MAXX 300 tunne
2 10" kicker subs
ALPINE NAV
HID head and fog lights
RECON lights all around
AMP POWER STEPS
20x12 FUEL NUTZ Wheels 38x15.5 20 Mtz
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post #6 of 40 Old 02-05-2012, 03:39 PM
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Its a pain in the ***.


Remember everything is really easy, you just have to do it once to figure it out.

1. Pull the weather stripping off your door, just pull it straight off.

2. Pull the plastic piece on either side of the console off, they are in the door jam, triangle pieces. I don't remember if you have to pull the two vent pieces off first or not.

3. This reveals 3 10 or 13 mm bolts on either side, unbolt all of them.

4. Look in the door jam, there is a plug right where the door closes that bolts the dash in, unbolt that.

5. Ontop of the dash down by the window there are two 4x4 panels, pop those off with a screw driver. There is one bolt on either side. Its easier to look from the outside down to see them.

6. Under the drivers side there is a bolt down by the drivers feet torwards the middle of the console.

7. Unplug the two plug that are right where the drivers knees would be, they are pretty big. Directly under the steering column. You can pull that plastic piece right by the drivers knees straight out, makes it easier.

8. Now make sure your wheels are straight, and follow the steering column down, there is one bolt that holds the column itself to another rod that goes through the firewall, unbolt that.

I'm pretty sure that's all of the main stuff. THe whole console with plastics will come out as a unit. Just remember you dont have to have a high IQ to work at an assembly plant, everything goes together real easy so don't overthink anything.

You'll have to take your front seats out to actually get the console out.
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post #7 of 40 Old 02-06-2012, 03:31 AM
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Good information! Thank you!

Babe The Blue OX



2008 Ford F-450, TumbleWeed Headache Rack, B&W Gooseneck, 15% tinted windows, 120 Gal Transfer tank, Cobra 29 LX CB, 1200 watt converter, PIAA lights, Sinister goodies, S&B Intake and lots of running lights.

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Thanks. I'll give er a good wackin in the morning.
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post #8 of 40 Old 02-06-2012, 09:16 AM
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Great information. Also handy to check these same fastener locations to prevent loose dash noises which is why I wanted to know the information for the future.

Shaun

'08 F250 6.4L Lariat 4x4 CC/SRW fully loaded, special ordered
6" Fabtech 2.25 dual shock lift w/18" AR wheels, 35" Toyo AT's
Avic-Z2 Nav/Stereo w/iPod, Bluetooth, XM NavTraffic
(2) Rear headrest mnt DVD entertainment systems
Line-X bedliner
Banks CAI, Dual Exhaust, Six-Gun, Speed Brake & iQ (test vehicle)
Bushwacker Fender Flares
Ravelco Anti Theft Device

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post #9 of 40 Old 02-13-2012, 04:11 AM
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Thank you sir!!
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post #10 of 40 Old 02-24-2012, 04:52 PM
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I just finished replacing my blend door actuator tonight. It was the one on the passenger side. There are a few things that are important to know when you are removing the dash. The instructions above are pretty complete so I will just add a few points to it.

1. The bolts under the 4x4 panels up by the windshield like to drop behind the dash once you get them out. So grab them with a magnet and take them out before you lose them. Just a point about those bolts, there are two on the driver side and one on the passenger side.

2. There are three (if I remember right) wiring harnesses on the passenger side that also need to be disconnected to move the dash out far enough to get to the blend actuator.

3. The plug mentioned in the door jam is only on the driver's side. That bolt is hard to get to and is easiest accessed from outside the truck. Stand in front of the driver side door, open the door all the way and you can see the bolt head. Use a magnet to keep it from dropping into the frame.

4. The dash is very heavy. Be sure to have someone to help you put it back on. Lift it up slightly higher than you think and it will fit right back on.

5. It is best to remove the grab handles from the A pillar or the dash won't want to come out. Just remove the two caps and take the 4 bolts (8mm socket) on each side out then remove the entire plastic panel.

This wasn't too bad of a job. I have never done it before and found all of the bolts just fine. My truck only had two inside the door frame on the passenger side and three on the driver side. The part was $32.36 from ford and the dealer wanted $200 in labor to replace it (Gullo Ford in Conroe, Texas). The entire job took me less than 2 hours.

Other than the few points I made here, the instructions above are great. Best of luck doing this repair and don't forget to re-attach your steering column to the steering shaft that goes back through the firewall.

For the record, my truck is a 2008 F-250 CC SWB King Ranch with dual auto air. The ford part number ends in 616.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2008 F-250 CC SWB King Ranch 4x4, 3.73, Job 3, stock looking so far...
B&W Gooseneck, Firestone Air Bags
Mini Max
Tows 2013 Voltage 3200 Toy Hauler

Last edited by HHR124; 02-24-2012 at 04:57 PM.
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