Up-Pipe Replacement on 6.4 - Pics included - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:21 AM
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Up-Pipe Replacement on 6.4 - Pics included

I have been putting this off for almost 2 years, but finally bit the bullet and got this job done. If you read some of my past posts you will see that I have mentioned that I ultimately needed to get this job done. But I will provide a little history because I haven't posted here in a while:

Autumn of 2012 - I started noticing a loud screaming in the engine upon acceleration. When ever the truck would go into regen mode a black billowing of smoke would emit from under the hood, primarily on the passenger side coming up from the wheel well. I determined that my passenger side up pipe had a leak (most likely at the flex bellow where they all crack).

Feb- March of 2013 - Not wanting to spend the money to get pipe replaced (it's a big number as cab needs to come off or drop trans to do the job) I decided I would first spend a little money to delete the DPF on my own. At least this way I could do away with the black smoke during regens. I straight piped from the down pipe back to the muffler, thereby doing away with the Cat and the DPF. The delete tune I installed was the GearBox Z DPF-R + with Economy Tune.

Summer 2013 - Decided to do a full EGR cooler delete as well. I went with the Flo-Pro delete kit with the intake elbow doing away with both coolers as well as the restrictive EGR valve assembly. Now she could breathe!

Truck continued to run well except for the still cracked up pipe, which was probably getting worse. That pipe is right behind the firewall, so the fumes would just come into the cab of the truck, stinking it up, not to mention dangerous to inhale. I would constantly have to use the recirculate button or drive with windows down.

I finally decided to get it to the shop last week. I was very nervous about a cab off job but these guys were super experienced in Powerstrokes. They were very comfortable removing cabs on these 6.4's. I am very happy I finally got this job done. I never thought I was losing a lot of power to the turbos because the truck always felt strong. Just loud. But man was I wrong. If I thought it was powerful before, it's an outright beast now. That sucker jumps with a touch of the accelerator. And the turbos spool right up so quick it blows my mind. Not to mention, she now purrs. It was so loud with the leak, I could barely hear the radio. Now it is completely quiet in the cab. And no more toxic fumes coming in. It's like I got a new truck!

First a few of the cab off:





By the time I got there he already had the old pipes removed. You can see the black soot where the leak was:





Old pipes removed:



New Pipes installed. Note how he welded a plate on the passenger side where the EGR provision pipe would have branched off to feed the EGR system. There was no need for that anymore as I had already removed the EGR coolers. This is a much cleaner look and cleans up that whole mess:





To give you an idea, here are some stock photos of how the original set up would have looked with the EGR provision pipe:





And finally a few shots of how he re routed the EBP sensors. First one he tapped right into the exhaust manifold (this originally would have been in the EGR provision pipe). See what I meant about these guys doing top notch clean work?



and the the Passenger side sensor which is basically in the same place it was on old pipe:


Last edited by mikemass; 05-15-2014 at 03:29 AM.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:40 PM
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Great pic`s and info . Thanks
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:33 AM
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Great pics, i just bought a 6.4. Why do the up pipes seem to be doubled on these trucks?
Like theres two up pipes per side. Comparing this to a 7.3 when i replaced those up pipes.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:55 AM
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Compare the pics I posted of mine vs the pics of the stock engine. They really are not doubled up per se. You will see on my truck that I only have 2 pipes. The flow of exhaust gas is coming from each exhaust manifold on lower part of the engine "up" thorough the pipes and into the turbos. That is what provide the tremendous boost to the duel turbo system.

Now look at the stock photos. The same two main up-pipes are still there in the same configuration. However, the difference is the right (passenger side) pipe has a protrusion that comes off the side. About 30% of that flow gets diverted... travels up and over where the other 2 pipes meet the turbo. Fumes travels trough a restrictive catalytic converter on top and then "down" over the left side into that extra pipe which feeds the EGR coolers. I no longer have the EGR coolers, so there is no need for the far left side pipe. Most guys with a delete will just block off that EGR feeder pipe.... Either at the bottom of the pipe where it would have attached to the EGR cooler, or they remove the pipe and block off just to the left of the Cat Converter. I cleaned the whole thing up by getting rid of the whole pipe, the cat and the protrusion and had the passenger side up-pipe welded shut where the protrusion would have been. Hope that explains it and answers your question.
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:40 AM
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Has anyone blocked off the driver side up pipe (regen pipe) where it crosses over behind the turbo. Just wondering this because if the truck is deleted it's a dead end pipe, correct? Is it not possible to block it off up high instead of repaceing the pipe or taking it out?

Last edited by hoofdoctor; 08-24-2014 at 08:45 AM. Reason: because
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoofdoctor View Post
Has anyone blocked off the driver side up pipe (regen pipe) where it crosses over behind the turbo. Just wondering this because if the truck is deleted it's a dead end pipe, correct? Is it not possible to block it off up high instead of repaceing the pipe or taking it out?
The simple answer is "yes", but some folks might get confused by what you are referring to as the "driver side up pipe (regen pipe)". I am saying yes, because I am sure that the pipe you are referring to is the Pipe that feeds the EGR coolers (or what would have fed them if coolers were still there). So yes, if the EGR's are deleted that becomes a dead end pipe. And blocking it off high is actually the better method than at the bottom of the pipe. (Just more difficult access).

Look at the stock photos I provided in the original post. Understand that some folks here refer to all three pipes as "up pipes". But there are only 2. One on each side, carrying exhaust gas from the exhaust manifolds (down low), "up" to the turbos. The third pipe that comes off the Passenger's side, crosses over the top and then back "down" the driver's side is the EGR feeder pipe. This is most likely what you are calling the "driver side up pipe (regen pipe)" and is the one that becomes obsolete if you delete the EGR system.

"Regen" is the process by which these 6.4's will dump a substantial amount of fuel into the 8th cylinder on the exhaust stroke in order to burn off the soot buildup in the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). Deleting the DPF is the other "delete" that is common in these 6.4's and is not associated at all with the pipes discussed in this thread.

So in summary..... If you do an EGR delete, then yes, it is fine to remove the pipe that fed the EGR coolers and block it off up high.

I just wanted to clarify, because some may search info on "regen" and find this thread and believe that these pipes have something to do with the DPF regeneration.

Any questions, feel free to reach out as I know much about both EGR and DPF deletes.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemass View Post
The simple answer is "yes", but some folks might get confused by what you are referring to as the "driver side up pipe (regen pipe)". I am saying yes, because I am sure that the pipe you are referring to is the Pipe that feeds the EGR coolers (or what would have fed them if coolers were still there). So yes, if the EGR's are deleted that becomes a dead end pipe. And blocking it off high is actually the better method than at the bottom of the pipe. (Just more difficult access).

Look at the stock photos I provided in the original post. Understand that some folks here refer to all three pipes as "up pipes". But there are only 2. One on each side, carrying exhaust gas from the exhaust manifolds (down low), "up" to the turbos. The third pipe that comes off the Passenger's side, crosses over the top and then back "down" the driver's side is the EGR feeder pipe. This is most likely what you are calling the "driver side up pipe (regen pipe)" and is the one that becomes obsolete if you delete the EGR system.

"Regen" is the process by which these 6.4's will dump a substantial amount of fuel into the 8th cylinder on the exhaust stroke in order to burn off the soot buildup in the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). Deleting the DPF is the other "delete" that is common in these 6.4's and is not associated at all with the pipes discussed in this thread.


So in summary..... If you do an EGR delete, then yes, it is fine to remove the pipe that fed the EGR coolers and block it off up high.

I just wanted to clarify, because some may search info on "regen" and find this thread and believe that these pipes have something to do with the DPF regeneration.

Any questions, feel free to reach out as I know much about both EGR and DPF deletes.
mike........ I guess I'd call it more of a cross over pipe as thats what it does, and yes it runs over and down to the EGR cooler. My "up" pipes in this case are fine, it's the egr cross over pipe that is cracked. It is blocked off on the lower end due to the delete. What I'd like to do is block it off up high to stop the "leak".
I'm not sure if anyone makes a block off plate for the top side or not. What I was going to do was order a new gasket and make the block off shim from that pattern. I'd hoped I could pry the pipe apart and slide the shim in between and bolt it back together. Does this sound like it can be done? """IT DOES LOOK LIKE A TIGHT FIT IN THERE"""! BUT A LONG PAIN IN THE ARSE PROCESS CUTTING THE PIPE OUT ALSO!!!
Any pointer or personal experience in doing this job would be highly appreciated. Also, would it have any effect on the sensor if I'm blocked off high and low??? Thanks in advance!

Last edited by hoofdoctor; 08-25-2014 at 12:48 PM. Reason: because
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:00 PM
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No time tonight to explain it well. Check back tomorrow. I will post some pics and tips on what you need to do.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:23 PM
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No time tonight to explain it well. Check back tomorrow. I will post some pics and tips on what you need to do.
Thanks Mike..... I'm doing some study's on it. I'm seeing it isn't like zip tieing up the exhaust sensors and calling it good. The cross over pipe sensor will be needed. Some thing to do with the turbo veins so it needs to be bunged back in!
Other than the hair line crack in the pipe the pipes look like new on this truck even with 137,000 miles. It was an Arizona truck so NO RUST! A guy with a steady hand at welding could probably lay a bead across that crack. With the inner fender removed it looks like a guy can get right to it.......
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:37 AM
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Ok HoofDoc, here we go. First off, let me say it is very common for the EGR "crossover" pipe to crack after you have done an EGR delete. The reason being is that when the bottom part of the pipe was bolted onto the lower EGR cooler, the whole structure had more support to it. With the EGR cooler removed, there is no rigidness in the bottom of the pipe. So it wobbles around and vibrates and is prone to crack. This is why it is best to completely removed that pipe if you do an EGR delete.

Onto your questions now... I didn't want to confuse the situation by talking about the EBP (Exhaust Back Pressure) Sensor, but it is absolutely necessary when you completely remove that pipe... Let's first talk about the block off plate, then I'll get to the sensor.

So if you refer to the first pic I posted here you will see I drew to circles, one Red, one Green. Being that you have already done an EGR delete, your block off plate is currently in the Red Circle. Once you remove that entire pipe, you want to use the same block off plate (and gaskets) and move it to the Green location. The block off plate fits perfectly in either location. You don't need to get another one.



Now for the pain in the Arse. Moving the EBP sensor. I have attached another pic below. In this one, imagine the pipe is no longer there and the block off plate is now located up top. The EBP sensor is circled down low in Blue (original location)... Follow the blue arrows up to where the block off plate now will be. You have to reroute that sensor up there and tap into the plate to attach the sensor... (There is a great write up somewhere on this forum or another popular 6.4 forum where someone did this. I will look for it after I finish this post.).......

The reason I drew some red arrows to an alternative location (the red circle) is I wanted to show you where my guy chose to tap into when he replaced my pipes and did away with the EGR feeder pipe. For a close up of how this looks exactly on my truck, go all the way back to my first post in this thread and see the second to last picture.



Hope these shots help explain things a bit better... Gimmie a little while and I will dig up some old web links.... 1. That good write-up I once read where a guy rerouted the EBP sensor and how he did the tap in the block off plate...... and 2. I know I once saw somewhere a retailer that sold a block off plate that was already tapped and threaded to accept the EBP sensor.
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