EGR Valve Sticking, Cooler Leaking? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:49 AM
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EGR Valve Sticking, Cooler Leaking?

Hi all,

First post on this forum, never had to post on behalf of my 6.4 before, so here goes.

About a month ago, the CEL came on, had the code checked, came up as a P1335 or EGR valve position, so I looked into that (through forums) and concluded the EGR valve was sticking. Tried unplugging it, and plugging it back in, problem went away for a while.

A few days ago, driving several hundred miles home after the holidays, Truck started to lose power, lots of white smoke, near stall condition all the time. Doing regen cycles every 30-50 miles at this point. Truck actually stalled out climbing the last hill to get home. Started up again just fine. Parked it, tore apart the Intake/EGR elbow, noted some carbon/suit buildup, but nothing "crazy".

While cleaning the EGR valve I noticed a few interesting things:
1. The EGR cooler inlet to the EGR valve shows significant "pitting" on the casting, looks like a major slag defect on the aluminum casting, but I figure this is related to corrosive/hot exhuast gasses entering the area.

2. The intake contains a lot of nice black "sludge" very wet and cokey carbon/suit buildup, a very greasy, black sludge (sticks to everything, hard to clean up).

3. The air tube coming from the inter-cooler had a small puddle of black engine oil at the bottom, but contained a rather greasy, gray sludge around the entire perimeter.

The gray sludge is my biggest concern. A friend thought maybe my inter-cooler was leaking coolant, but this is an Air-Air inter-cooler, so coolant shouldn't be leaking into the inter-cooler. In either case I know I am getting coolant in the inter-cooler, or at least the tube from the intercooler to the throttle body.

I already ordered an EGR delete kit and tuner for this when I noted the EGR valve problems arising, should be here late this week. Checked codes again today, present codes are P1335 for EGR valve, and a P2463 for DPF issues. I ordered my tuner in the nick of time I think. Also note that the truck went into "reduced" power mode. Am I going to be able to clear that issue, or will I need to seek a pro tuner?

I am under the assumption that I have a major EGR leak, as I added about 1 gallon of coolant a month ago, and noted the coolant was another gallon low when I did the cleanup the other day.

Is there any other area I should check when I do the EGR delete, or am I correct in assuming that the Grey sludge is a direct result of the EGR cooler leaking?

Truck is an 08, with about 85,000 miles... I am a little disapointed to be having a "common issue" this early on a gently used truck. I was keeping my fingers crossed that this would not happen. Needless to say, I am hell-bent on "bulletproofing" this thing as much as is feasible, as I would like to keep the truck a little longer, or at least have some strong selling points for another owner who is excited to take on the challenge of an EPA created problem.

Fixes to follow:
1. EGR delete to include new elbow, block-offs, tuner, etc.
2. DPF delete/tuner at the same time.
3. Coolant filtration system
4. Going to try the Gearboxz DPF-R (havn't heard anything bad about it yet, and its low-priced for emission removal).

Any other low-buck ideas for this one? New coolant recommendations?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long, wordy post.
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Old 01-01-2014, 06:31 AM
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sounds eerily familiar- 08 with 110k just went into shop with egr issues....
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:08 PM
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Update

So, a little update.

Had some friendly advice from Holzer, suggesting I remove the cooling lines to the EGR valve, that stopped my coolant loss issue. Unfortunately, a bit too late. The leaking EGR valve caused coolant to go thru the motor and gunk up the DPF and CAT. Shortly after I cleaned my EGR valve, I started getting the DPF clogged/reduced engine power codes (P246C, P2463).

So, I ordered the Gearbox Z tuner, an EGR delete, and took the truck to the local exhaust shop to take care of the DPF. While I considered staying legitimate with the DPF, I looked at the price... Local DPF cleaner wants $450 just to clean it, $250 to bake it, and another $150 to test it to make sure it flows. So about $700-$850 to clean and refresh the DPF. New DPF is more like $1400.

So cost alone justified the Tuner/DPF delete. Tuner cost $395, DPF delete pipe cost me $180, so I may have saved myself a little money this way.

On the gearbox Z, The tuner had no issues clearing the P246C code and doing the tune to turn off the DPF. No issues, took 20 minutes. So far it is a legit tuner for DPF removal.


So after tuning, the DPF was still clogged, but the truck ran fine, albeit a bit weak due to the exhaust issues. Only ran it about 15 miles to get to the exhaust shop. Wanted to make sure the tuner worked first.

After leaving the exhaust shop, I was a little bit troubled. Truck sounds like a jet now, a little too loud to sound stock I know that much. Maybe becuase the truck is running Straight-piped at the moment.

Exhaust has a really throaty, deep, sound to it. Even the slightest bit of throttle lets everyone around me know I am going somewhere. And I can hear the turbo spin down for a good 20 seconds after shutting it down.

Truck has a lot more pep than I remember, definitely wanted to breath.

Still waiting on RCD to send me my EGR delete stuff, but they havn't shipped anything yet. Been a few weeks now.

Warning to all 6.4 owners, get the EGR valve taken care of. The one with the cooling lines can cause a major headache.
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:14 PM
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thanks for the update. mine is still in the shop being evaluated- egr valve and housing got replaced- I will be researching the tuners and exhaust to switch them out shortly.
let us know how you like your set up after a bit.....
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:52 AM
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Did a Black Max tune two years ago. Kept OEM muffler. Throaty, but not loud. Finally deleted EGR. Hopefully soon enuf to not cuz any other problems. Will post my newest concern as a new thread. Johnny
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