exhaust manifolds ,, help techs - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-24-2011, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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exhaust manifolds ,, help techs

any of you guys had any issues exhaust leaks? if so how hard is it to change the gasket or just replaced the whole manifold if its warped?has anyone heard of them leaking..

1) 2002 crew cab f350 all stock on 19.5 toyo's
2) 2008 F450 Lariat Crew Cab over 145k miles Spartan tuner since 10k miles on it.. to many upgrades to list
3) 2006 Chevy 3500 duramax, Super Chips , rolling 22.5 semi Alcoa wheels
4) 2009 Peterbilt 10 car train!!! shes a CUMMINS
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-24-2011, 07:37 PM
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pump smoke through it and find the leak? or see soot on the manifold?
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-24-2011, 07:41 PM
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they arent TOO bad but will suck in a hurry if any of the bolts break... Get yourself the following
swivel 13mm deep 3/8ths for the nuts at the up pipes 5mm 1/4in drive for the studs if you want to remove or install them in the new manifold. and 10mm swivel shallow 3/8ths for the manifold bolts.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-24-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeTech82787 View Post
pump smoke through it and find the leak? or see soot on the manifold?
ok i under stand what your saying i just dont have the tools to do some like that? what can i use or where can i buy it at? i appreciate the advice alot, thank you..being that i come from a huge gas motor mechanic all these diesel stuffs is new as far as turbos and how they work. if theres a machine that pumps smoke and u can tell me how to properly do it i'm all over it..ive done alot of work on this motor some simple some pain in the ***..but with how slow moving the biz is i have no choice but to do it my self to save cash..

1) 2002 crew cab f350 all stock on 19.5 toyo's
2) 2008 F450 Lariat Crew Cab over 145k miles Spartan tuner since 10k miles on it.. to many upgrades to list
3) 2006 Chevy 3500 duramax, Super Chips , rolling 22.5 semi Alcoa wheels
4) 2009 Peterbilt 10 car train!!! shes a CUMMINS
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-24-2011, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeTech82787 View Post
they arent TOO bad but will suck in a hurry if any of the bolts break... Get yourself the following
swivel 13mm deep 3/8ths for the nuts at the up pipes 5mm 1/4in drive for the studs if you want to remove or install them in the new manifold. and 10mm swivel shallow 3/8ths for the manifold bolts.
what can i expect to remove for this job.i notice that most of the bolts i can get from the wheel well, but do i need to remove the alternator..anything crazy?

1) 2002 crew cab f350 all stock on 19.5 toyo's
2) 2008 F450 Lariat Crew Cab over 145k miles Spartan tuner since 10k miles on it.. to many upgrades to list
3) 2006 Chevy 3500 duramax, Super Chips , rolling 22.5 semi Alcoa wheels
4) 2009 Peterbilt 10 car train!!! shes a CUMMINS
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-25-2011, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bigboytransporting View Post
what can i expect to remove for this job.i notice that most of the bolts i can get from the wheel well, but do i need to remove the alternator..anything crazy?
to make life a little eaiser undo the engine mount nuts and jack the engine up. You can either get it from a corner of the oil pan rail, or raise it with a heavy duty engine crane.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-30-2011, 02:39 PM
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I pulled the heads on the last set I did. both sides had 2 studs each broken well below flush with the head. Never seen them leak without having broken studs, not yet atleast



set the heads on the bench and pulled the studs out with my mig



MOTHER **** doing them cab on.

-Matt

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2015 F-250 XLT 6.7L

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post #8 of 11 Old 08-31-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinner6.0L View Post
I pulled the heads on the last set I did. both sides had 2 studs each broken well below flush with the head. Never seen them leak without having broken studs, not yet atleast



set the heads on the bench and pulled the studs out with my mig



MOTHER **** doing them cab on.
indeed they are when i do them in cab i remove the up pipes and turbo jack up one side of the engine to get enough clearance and go at it with the mig and a bag of nuts. speaking of broken manifolds-You have a matco guy? Ill get you the tool number for it, i have these break out bits that are absolutely PERFECT for 5.4/6.8 studs. put them in a die grinder hold it wide open and you can either bore down through them or clean them up and continue to weld them. after a while i bet you know it as well as i do, after a while you temper those things and they become harder than a bastard, these bust out bits will bore through them. whether you welded only once to them or go through 100 nuts per stud. best 70 bucks i spent aside from the matco 3 valve spark plug removal tool makes rotundas piece of crap that much more useless.
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-01-2011, 04:21 PM
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nah no matco guy here. hell I haven't seen our snap-on guy for months

I use the lisle 3 valve broken plug extractor. I'm on my 3rd one, the screw end wears out after a while

-Matt

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2015 F-250 XLT 6.7L

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post #10 of 11 Old 09-01-2011, 06:09 PM
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We only have matco and snap on stop by, but it's once a week. I'm just glad I don't have an account with them anymore since paying them off.
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